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Old 09-03-2004, 07:14 AM
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Hey Willys !

I checked out your journal last nite. Pretty impressive. Really enjoyed it. I'm an engineer by trade and must say that you and others like you here at Hotrodders do more backyard engineering than I ever dreamed of.

You had some shots of the power steering for your 53....I've drooled over the thought of power steering for my 55 , 2nd series
for a long time. I've read quite a number of how to's and I like your system the best. Some others are a power assist type system...much like the original power steering shown in the factory assembly manual..others use 70's truck components.

I have seen one other article that used the Tyota components. What I didn't like about the one I saw, was the stering box was actually mounted in the wheel well, between the frame rail and the tire. I wondering if they did it that way because possibly they didn't straighten the pitman as you did and had to do it that way to line things up. Your install was slick.

If I get around to doing it I'll ask more questions then, But for now I have three questions:

1) What were the results? Totally satisfied? Some of the hook ups can be purchased as a kit?

2) Your frame etc looked identical to my 55. Would this work for a 55?

3) I've got a 6 cylinder. Would it be asking too much from a 6 to power the power steering pump?

Thanks...

Keith

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Old 09-03-2004, 09:14 AM
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Thanx for the kudos. I use my hot rodding as my therapy - I f I had to pay someone to do it I would quit. I just love coming up against a seemingly insurmountable obstacle and coming up with a solution myself. A part from Pick-A-Part excites me infinitely more than any billet $$ mail order kit-car part could ever do.

I haven't really studied the differences between the Advance Design frames and the later 50s frames so can't intelligently comment on them. However, from what I have casually observed, the former taper in the front while the later rails are basically straight? Anyway, it really shouldn't matter. The Toyota power steering slug is so similar to both early Chevy gears that adapting it is no big deal. As you observed, key the the conversion is straightening the pitman arm. As long as you don't quench the steel after heating it red hot and bend it to shape, the alloy they used in forged steering components form easily and lose no strength or integrity. If you have rudimentary welding skills and can glue together a few pieces of 3/8" plate, the installation is a simple as it looks!

If you go this way, be sure to get the hose ends from the donor car. One of the fittings on the gear is really strange and it took my hydraulics guy a lot of creativity to make a setup that worked. Just cut the hoses going to the fittings and any competent hydraulics shop can reuse the fittings in a new custom hose.

I wanted to go this way to avoid a frame clip or MII because a) the straight axle gives me 60,000 miles on a set of tires, and b) I want my truck to look like a factory '53 king cab so am keeping a lot of the stock stuff on it.

And, yes a 6 should be plenty to run the PS pump. In fact, as my Journal photos show I am running a tricked out 235 straight 6 in my truck. Have a 280 deg cam, 1/10" milled head (per Clifford Performance recommendations), Clifford intake manifold w/ Holley 600cfm vac secondary 4bbl, Fenton cast iron split headers, 2" dual exhaust, Chrysler electronic ignition parts inside the stock 235 distributor, MSD5, AC compressor, 80 amp alternator, Toyota PS pump, and lots of polished aluminum and chrome!

I haven't finished the truck or started the engine but I anticipate great results. I put a MII front X-member w'/ power steering in my son's heavy '36 Pontiac 4-dr sedan. We ran a really trick 230cuin straight 6 & GM power steering pump. That engine was very stout and if I wasn't careful, he could beat my hemi-powered Willys off the line @ a stop light.

What kind of engineer are you? I have an ME degree from Fresno State (class of '72 - looks from your age like we may be class mates!) but have worked my whole career in the oil business and am registered in California as a petroleum engineer.

Last edited by willys36@aol.com; 09-03-2004 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 09-04-2004, 06:27 AM
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Willy's,

I look at the Clifford and Stovebolt stuff once a week. The 235 I have was rebuilt by me about 20 years ago. Sounds like a long time but it probably ony has 10,000 miles on it. I had .050 taken off the head. I called Jack Clifford(Jacks his name right) and asked him how much I could safely take off and he said .050. Nice of him to give the advise since I didn't buy anythin from him. I put a cam from a '62 in it. Stock-but it is different from the previous years and delivers more horsepower. If I stay with a six the headers and manifold would be very cool.

I have an Associates in Mechanical Engineering. I primarily worked for metal stamping houses...in various engineering and
sales engineering positions.

Looks like a great holiday weekend. I've got to sand the porch railings and get my wife started paing them...then I'll set up my new lincoln Mig, practice and maybe by Monday start weling my cab corners on.

Have a great weekend.

By the way...did you mount the power steering pump on the passenger side of the engine?

Keith
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Old 09-04-2004, 08:25 AM
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Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
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Yes, the driver's side is already taken up w/ alternator and A/C pump. That is why I had to go with the two-groove crank pulley too. One crank pulley groove drives the low mounted A/C compressor and water pump, the second groove in the A/C compressor has a belt that drives the high mounted alternator only, and the second crank pulley groove is dedicated to the PS pump.
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