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Hi all I took your carb advice to heart need to know a little more
I thought by just buying a 600 Edelbrock it would solve my problems WEL as one fine hotrodder pm'd me " throwing money at a problem solves nothing.. you need to learn about a carb before you can understand how to fix it " he says.. SO i bought a dvd about carbs. LOL first 10 min in it says cars / trucks that are heavy require a stronger VS spring.. I was shocked !! My car (83 camaro pro street) weighs 3800 lbs apprx SO Summit sells their stock carbs with the lightest springs meant for 290- 3400 lb cars.. THAT explains my bog when I floor it non the 750/600 4010's I have They went on about jets etc I understand that aspect It annoyed me the carb to engine spec on your calculator to find the right cfm.. It says 350 sbc times X max rpm divided by 3456 tells you the carb on stock to mild engines well it states I need a 570 cfm round off to 600 ! I doubted this at first but then a friend of mine has a camel hump head, 355, 10:1 compression engine etc he has a 650 cs on it and it ROASTS the tires... !! He says dont go by the 650cfm the timing has alot to do with it SO HERE WE GO AGAIN!! more info..ANYWAYZ.. long story short my car is a 83 camaro, roll caged 355 th 400 line lock welded full frame, ford 9" 4:10 gears I just bought a summit 600 VS carb electric choke, I have vortec heads (stock) crane 272 h10 cam 454 454 lift 272 deration (advertised) 2500 stall converter 600 may be a tad small let me know your thoughts,,,,, Im running 12 degrees timing full port vacuum for timing , hei is a stock 1985 camro distributor..... Is this setup decent for a mild engine with my cars weight.. This is all learning to me Im trying my best to grasp this all in Im no pro engine builder and timing and car is %50 of your cars power.. the rest is brute power and sure stupiditiy LOL... Any advice is appreicated If my timing is too much or whatever please tell me you opinion... Thanx for reading! And thanx to all who made me realise money do't get you everything... Ive wasted $2000 on carbs and sensless bs trying to get this car to run good and i learned SQUAT!!! A dvd and a 300 carb taught me more then Ive spent to date That and the email to learn about the carb/timing stop spending money email froma hotrodder I wont give his name out
.. cheers
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welcome . Anxious to see how this turns out .
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Iron heads, 9" diff and housing, full cage, TH400, "welded full frame", w/driver and a cell full of fuel = 3800 lbs.
Use manifold vacuum to supply the vac. advance, and limit the vac. advance to around 10º-12º. If you don't have an adjustable vac. adv., use Crane #99619-1 Vacuum Timing Limiter Plate. Vortec heads do not need much timing. 34º maximum in most cases. Bring in all the timing by 3000 rpm, 2500 rpm is better- if you can w/o detonation. |
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I am going ancient technology and using a high grade mower cable to control the distributor timing in my beast, screw it. Actually works great. I cant afford another computer related thing. Model "A" style for me. Timing on the instument panel. I need to just go manual tranny and just use the old automatic tranny gear selector to change my timing. muha
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Man, I wish I could listen to your car run, I could tell in a few minutes of driving it if it wasn't getting enough fuel or had too much timing. But I am a noob to spending money so... Ok, Both are bad so I guess start too rich and set the timing with the strobe light (if the balancer marks are still accurate) to a very conservative level. Did the kit come with a plethora of springs and jets? I know I had to tune my edelbrock carby on my elcamino a little bit to coax the best power and gas mileage out of her. I could roast the tires with that 350 but el camino is a light car. You might wanna get a o2 sensor bung welded in one side of your exhaust pipe as close as you can to the engine, then get a o2 sensor and a cheapie narrow band gauge from autozone, but if you actually have money unlike me get the wide band setup. You can tell in every area of the rpm range what the fuel mix is. Tuning is hard, it is a matter of "feel" especially if you do not have a cockpit full of gauges such as head temp and exhaust gas temp. Too bad we can not adjust the fuel mix and the timing on the fly using those gauges like an airplane! Wide band o2 sensor gauges are new tech, if I could, I would use them. I do adjust my timing on the fly like an airplane with a cable tho. I also have an old crappy quadrajet that works pretty darn good.
If it is too lean you will see the head temps read high, if the ignition timing is set too retard, you will see exhaust gas temps read high. You gotta be the computer, and chicks dig that. |
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What the hell is this thread about? A too heavy, fully caged RACE car with a mild 350 in it that's slow with a 600 cfm carb on it or somebody wanting to use a lawn mower throttle cable so he can dink around with his timing while driving? What the hell am I missing here. Is it April 1st?
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This deal sounds to me like it was bought minus the engine- as a roller, and this engine is being used until/instead of a "good" engine- possibly to sort things out before doing up a proper mill? I believe the "apprx" the OP added to the "3800 lbs" says a lot. Weigh this thing at the track or where ever- you'll likely find that you're lighter. |
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You will never get it right with a stock, 85 Camaro distributor, if that is what you actually have. That distributor has no weights, springs, or advance mechanism and is 'locked", meant to be controlled by the computer.
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I know, Right?
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Does the correct answer kill the thread? Not likely.
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Badda Boom......The thread killer But then again with Cool Rockin's theory it could go on and on and on
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