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Old 04-23-2013, 07:57 AM
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Hi All new member here with a question...

I just bought a 1978 Chevy C10 with a new BBC 454 Motor in it with Hedman Headers...I am looking to put some more horsepower into the motor, but at a poor mans pocket price..I always wanted this kind of motor and need some advice on how to maximize the most out of it. Any recommendations on Carb, Camshaft, crankshaft, etc is much appreciated. I am not sure even what the compression is on this motor. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks Guys..

-Chad-

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Old 04-23-2013, 09:39 AM
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Welcome to the board. A search here will bring up tons of BBC builds and parts recommendations.
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Old 04-23-2013, 10:20 AM
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I just wrote them a email..thanks for the info...
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by MSP079 View Post
I just bought a 1978 Chevy C10 with a new BBC 454 Motor in it with Hedman Headers...I am looking to put some more horsepower into the motor, but at a poor mans pocket price..I always wanted this kind of motor and need some advice on how to maximize the most out of it. Any recommendations on Carb, Camshaft, crankshaft, etc is much appreciated. I am not sure even what the compression is on this motor. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks Guys..-Chad-
If the motor is stock, it will be pretty low on static compression ratio, somewhere less than 9.0:1. You need to find out what you have before you go buying parts for it.

The cylinder head casting numbers are under the valve covers, in between the valve guides. The block casting number is on a ledge at the back of the motor, on the driver's side, just before the flange where the bellhousing bolts up to the block. The intake manifold should have a raised casting number on it too. Here are some of those numbers....
Big Block Chevy Engine Parts casting numbers and Identification
There should be a suffix code stamped into the block either at the very front of the block in front of where the passenger side cylinder head ends or on a machined pad over the timing chain cover. Scroll down here to "Big Block Engine Suffix Code Menu"
How to decode Chevy Engine Codes

I would resist any temptation to screw an aftermarket camshaft into the motor without raising the static compression ratio with different pistons. Most fellows want to get that "rump-rump" sound and you can get that sound, but the motor will be a turd if you don't raise the static compression ratio first.

It's a matter of matching the intake closing point to the static compression ratio. We can teach you how to do it, but like I said, you need to know what you're working on first. When it comes to buying parts, there is the possibility of finding used parts in many cases, like intake manifolds and such.
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:13 AM
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I just wrote them a email..thanks for the info...
Midnight Sun Street Rod Association is part of Nova's signature. I don't think he meant for you to contact them.
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Old 04-24-2013, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
If the motor is stock, it will be pretty low on static compression ratio, somewhere less than 9.0:1. You need to find out what you have before you go buying parts for it.

The cylinder head casting numbers are under the valve covers, in between the valve guides. The block casting number is on a ledge at the back of the motor, on the driver's side, just before the flange where the bellhousing bolts up to the block. The intake manifold should have a raised casting number on it too. Here are some of those numbers....
Big Block Chevy Engine Parts casting numbers and Identification
There should be a suffix code stamped into the block either at the very front of the block in front of where the passenger side cylinder head ends or on a machined pad over the timing chain cover. Scroll down here to "Big Block Engine Suffix Code Menu"
How to decode Chevy Engine Codes

I would resist any temptation to screw an aftermarket camshaft into the motor without raising the static compression ratio with different pistons. Most fellows want to get that "rump-rump" sound and you can get that sound, but the motor will be a turd if you don't raise the static compression ratio first.

It's a matter of matching the intake closing point to the static compression ratio. We can teach you how to do it, but like I said, you need to know what you're working on first. When it comes to buying parts, there is the possibility of finding used parts in many cases, like intake manifolds and such.
Being new I am sure you don't know this.You with this just got the best advise there is from Tech.He knows his stuff.
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Old 04-24-2013, 09:01 AM
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Yeah I'd have to say that.

Being a guy who don't know so much, I'd just say make sure those aren't later-model "peanut port" heads on there, and fix it if they are. To start with.
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