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Old 09-01-2005, 09:32 PM
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Hi-Torque Mini Starter Recommendation

I have a 350 with flat-top pistons, 76cc chamber heads, stock HEI, and an edelbrock performer cam. 204/212 .420/.442. I currently have initial advance set at 12 degrees btdc. If i back off any it runs terrible. I know the engine wants more advance because as I add more, I get better response and more power. However, the more I add, the harder it is to start. I was told that this specific cam likes around 16 degrees initial timing with the setup I have. If I want to run this much initial advance, I will definitely need a hi-torque mini starter to get it started. Any brand in particular that someone could reccommend? Thanks.

Chevy 21

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Old 09-01-2005, 10:29 PM
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I can't remember which one I use. They probably all come from the same factory in Taiwan. Companies just put their sticker on them. They certainly all look alike.

Any stock Chevy starter or alternator I ever bought all looked the same to me, regardless of where I purchased it.
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Old 09-01-2005, 11:40 PM
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I really can't see why you need a hi-torque mini-starter. I use a stock starter from a 99 Suburban on a good 500hp 408cid sbc. It turns this just fine. I went with this starter mainly for the weight savings (factory min-starter). It could be a possibility that your starter is just giving out. Any stock starter should easily turn your combination.
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Old 09-02-2005, 12:03 AM
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I agree, with your combo, you have other problems than starter. There is no way your combo requires 16 degrees of advance. That being said, anyone who uses headers is better off with a mini-starter.
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Old 09-02-2005, 06:21 AM
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A warning about those "knock off" mini hi torque starters. While building my 34 I purchased a chrome alternator and a new GM style mini starter from a very reputable starter shop in our area. The starter really turns over the Fastburn good, so I thought this is great. That was when the engine was on a test stand and running open headers. Once I got exhaust on the engine I noticed an annoying characteristic of this starter. Once the engine has fired off the bendix is very slow about disengaging. It makes quite a bit of racket until it pulls back, usually in about two to three seconds. I went back to the starter shop to inquire about this. He told me that it is typical for these starters. I then happen to notice the starter on our 04 Tahoe looks identical to the one on my 34, and it does not have the same annoying problem. After putting up with it for several months during the build process on my car (I start the engine up and let it run on a regular basis), I decided I had had enough and purchased a Powermaster Ultra Torque starter from Jegs. this starter is a real hoss and and is very quite. Anybody want a Delco knock off?

Vince
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Old 09-02-2005, 07:36 AM
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mini-starter problems

302-Z is right on. I received one of those with my crate motor. Even with installing the nose spacer, I was not able to obtain the recommended space between the flywheel and bendix gear. Jon Barret sent me a stock style, cad plated starter that he said was sure to "be the ticket". Look for the long copper spacer as an indictor of high torque. Bill
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Old 09-02-2005, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tornado-tech
I really can't see why you need a hi-torque mini-starter. I use a stock starter from a 99 Suburban on a good 500hp 408cid sbc. It turns this just fine. I went with this starter mainly for the weight savings (factory min-starter). It could be a possibility that your starter is just giving out. Any stock starter should easily turn your combination.
I think you're probably more around 400 horse with your combo. I've seen folks up to 600+ horse use a stock starter with some modified guts. The mini-starters are a good investment, though. They really last and give a good speed for the start, that's steady. Sometimes in rough conditions you need the extra speed and even rhythm of a high torque starter. It really does make a difference. ON a really cold or hot day, you'll be glad you spent a couple extra bucks.

K
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Old 09-02-2005, 10:53 AM
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I guess it has always acted this way even when a new starter was installed. What else could it be then? How could there be no way that it would want 16 degrees of initial timing? The more timing I give it, the better it runs.
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Old 09-02-2005, 12:25 PM
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Bad starter, starter hot, Bad battery, High resistance in mian power source, bad connection, worn ignition, timing off, tight engine componet's, and on and on.
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Old 09-02-2005, 07:22 PM
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starter

i use a powermaster mini starter on my 355sbc. no problems but it cost 200 at the time i bought it.
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Old 09-02-2005, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddwills
i use a powermaster mini starter on my 355sbc. no problems but it cost 200 at the time i bought it.
IMO a good investment, you will probably not have to buy another starter.

Vince
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Old 09-02-2005, 07:55 PM
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Powermaster is my choice. They make them based on compression range. I have 10.2 to 1 compression and use a Powermaster rated to 14 to 1 and it works great. The starter does not care what your horsepower output is, just how much resistance to rotation during the start cycle. Heavy advance timing builds resistance, much like increasing compression so go with high compression rated starters.

By the way, I tried a replacement high torque starter before the Powermaster, but the mounting block was so far out of tolerance, I could not get the drive gear close enough to stay engaged (overseas crap). I milled .050 off the face, but was still to far away to get more than 3 or 4 starts before the bolts would bend and allow it to disengage. Another .050 would have let it work, but we could not hold the starter block well enough in our milling machine to reach that deep. It had the torque to spin the motor when it would stay engaged.

Trees
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