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Old 05-03-2005, 11:10 AM
rusttorod's Avatar
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Hidden Hinges on 4 Door Sedan Driving Me Crazy!

I'm working on a 1934 Plymouth four door sedan with suicide doors. I'm trying to shave the external hinges and put in hidden hinges. Before starting, I read everything I could find on installing hidden hinges, including every thread on here. I even got a free copy of an installation video from Hagan's. I ended up ordering a hinge kit from Rocky Hinge, and read the instructions several times.

After many hours, I finally got the back door to swing without bumping the body, but the biggest problem is with the front doors. The B pillar is too narrow to install the hinge kit in the right spot. The centerline of the hinge pin needs to be 1 1/2" back from the edge of the pillar, but there's not enough room inside the pillar. I cut up the hinge and tacked it in there anyway, just to test it, and the body moulding line bumps into the B pillar when the door opens about 5 degrees.

I've also studied the idea of cutting out the B pillar and fabbing a new pillar moved a couple inches inside the car, so the edge of the front door swings 'into' the car, like new cars, instead of out away from the body, like '30s cars. I got a set of hinges off a late model Toyota Camry to test with, but I still can't get the geometry right. The body moulding still bumps into the back door.

I tried making a cardboard template of the front door skin and jam area, mounting the new hinges to it, and doing a test swing, but I just can't get the pin in the right spot. I think the problem is that the window channel is too close to the door jam to be able to fit the hinge pin in there.

Before I go into any more detail, has anyone successfully installed hidden hinges on any 30's era 4 door car? I take pride in being able to figure stuff out on my own, but I've been working on this off and on for 6 months, and I'm going nutty!

I can post detailed pictures if needed.

Please help!

-Shane
www.RustToRod.com
The 34 Plymouth Project

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Old 05-03-2005, 11:56 AM
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I would have to see some pics of your problem to understand why anyone would tell you to place the hing pivot center 1 1/2" from the edge of the pillar. That doesn't make any sense to me at all. My experience is that the hinge centerline ideally would be placed at thecrease in the bend in the sheet metal at the body panel/door jamb intersection. This would guarantee zero interference. That not being possible, make every attempt to snuggle the hing pin as close to that intersection as possible. Any deviation away from that ideal causes panel interference.
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Old 05-03-2005, 12:26 PM
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Hey Willys,
I know exactly what you mean, because I've read several of your comments on this subject before. I've tried it your way, and have even drawn out an overhead pattern to test different hinge positions. I'll post some pictures tonight to show more detail. Very hard to explain without pictures.
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Old 05-03-2005, 01:54 PM
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Hmmm . . if that doesn't work you may have too many doo-dads sticking out on that side of the door to use hidden hinges w/o modification of the trim/body.
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Old 05-03-2005, 03:42 PM
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Where the hinge pin is in relation to the pillar has little to do with your problem. What it sounds like is the hinge pin needs to be moved more toward the outer skin. If you go to this link you should see what you need. (click here)

LOL, I just noticed that you had posted there. Honestly, THAT is your problem, the pin needs to move all the way out as far as you can go. Look at my diagrams to get the idea. The ARC has to be moved out so the door goes OUT at the front before it moves FORWARD in the arc.

Brian

Last edited by MARTINSR; 05-03-2005 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 01-13-2006, 09:14 AM
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Click here is broken

MARTINSR
Your "click here" is broken! I'd like to check out that diagram posted below, can ya fix it? Please.
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Old 02-06-2006, 08:23 PM
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Matt,
Try this link -
Hinge Diagram
-Shane
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Old 02-07-2006, 08:02 AM
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Shane,

Why don't you post up a couple of detailed pictures of what you are working with.

Dewey
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