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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2002, 06:20 PM
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[quote]Is it possible to do with what I have?<hr></blockquote>

Yes, but you would have to have a timing tape that would show all the advance (in degrees), or have the balancer marked to that point.

What all of this boils down to and your being without the proper equipment, is to power time the engine as has been suggested several times.

Keep bumping until you hear detonation and then back her down two degrees.

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Old 08-19-2002, 06:22 PM
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My dampener is marked with degrees.
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Old 08-19-2002, 06:23 PM
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i.e., I think it has this "tape" you speak of.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 08-19-2002, 06:27 PM
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You misunderstand. A fully marked balancer will be marked the full 360 degrees. A racer would use that for setting valve lash, etc. A tape is exactly that, an adhesive tape that is markerd for 360 degress that is applied to the damper, the cheap way out.
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Old 08-19-2002, 06:32 PM
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I just took a look.

My dampener has tape surrounding the full 360 degrees. Its from "Mr. Gasket"

The degrees BTDC are in 10 degree increments up to 90 BTDC. ATDC is marked at larger intervals to 90 degrees ATDC.
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Old 08-19-2002, 06:46 PM
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OK.

All you need to know now is the full mechanical advance of your distributor and when it all comes in (RPM's). You can find this information out with your present light and a good tachometer.

Make a chart and record the advance degrees for 100's of RPM's. That will give you your advance curve and tell you if there is any binding in the breaker plates. When the advancing of the tape stops at a certain RPM...That will be the point of full mechanical advance.

Raise engine idle to the RPM and set the distributor to the full advance.

You know, I am starting to confuse myself now.

Until you know all of that, it is best to power time it.
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Old 08-19-2002, 06:50 PM
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Sounds good. I'll study this a bit, and look up some more info on how to power time.


Thanks for the help,
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Old 08-19-2002, 08:30 PM
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you got a stick or automatic? <img src="graemlins/pain.gif" border="0" alt="[pain]" />
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Old 08-20-2002, 04:18 AM
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Its a 4-speed manual. M21
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Old 08-20-2002, 10:30 AM
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i know this sounds stupid cause somebody already told you to check all your vac. holes but i've been doinkin w/ chevies my whole life and i still left off the plug in the top back of the edelbrock because it's hiding under the holley's rear float bowl i didn't see it!! it goes to your power brake booster which you probably don't have so check it. my neighbors all heard the hissing but i cant hear that frequency and still didn't hear it. plugged it and it all of a sudden idled! MAGIC man!

As far as timing goes i threw my light away for it didnt help a bit. i always advance it so that it will accelerate like a raped ape when i floor the throttle linkage. then i turn it off and keep retarding it until it starts with just a turn of the key-no gas pedal. when it does that make sure it still accelerates like hell (ie you didn't retard it too much) then if it still accelerates like a race car and you can start it without using the gas pedal, tighten the ***** down and forget it.

[ August 20, 2002: Message edited by: bullheimer ]</p>
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2002, 10:48 AM
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Thanks for the reply.

Your advice on timing is well taken. This appears to be a variant of the "power timing" approach, as mentioned by Kulutz. Another method has one advancing the spark until it knocks, and then back off a bit. To tell the truth, however, I'm not sure I would even be able to make out a knock! For one thing, my engine is loud, with the headers and all.
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Old 08-21-2002, 08:32 AM
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you'll hear it as i did last night with mine. i just retarded it until it quit pinging when i stuck it in 4th gear at about 35 mph and punched it. then it's under hella load. just flooring the throttle linkage in neutral is your starting point you don't want any pinging when you are going up a hill like you said, so in 4th gear lugging it and you punch it it's like going up a hill. retard it (moving the dist. so idle rpms slow down) until it quits pinging, drive it down the street, test it, come back and retard little by little till the pinging quits then leave it. dude, my truck just hauls freakin butt now and no pinging. now if my new tail/stop lights ever get here i can drive it <img src="graemlins/mwink.gif" border="0" alt="[mwink]" /> i just want to add that i obviously have no idea how many degrees my dist. is advanced and that this is about as scientific as throwing spagetti at the wall :p

[ August 21, 2002: Message edited by: bullheimer ]
the advance it til it pings approach is the same thing just coming from the other direction. depending on where you had your timing when you started trying to dial it in. just have to be sure the engine is under max load when you are trying to get it to ping (or stop pinging).

[ August 21, 2002: Message edited by: bullheimer ]</p>
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 08-21-2002, 08:50 AM
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To determine if it pings, are you wanting low RPMs before you stomp on it? (you mention laying on it when its in fourth gear going up hill)
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