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Old 04-14-2005, 04:32 PM
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HOK drying problem part II

Well as of Tues morn still the same. I did a scary solution that I'm sure will be wrought with further discussion and critique . None the less, it worked just fine and we saved the job. I re-sprayed the complete car in UC35 and KU500 using RU310 reducer with 1 1/2 extra oz,s of catalyst per mixed qt and did a slow low heat cure of about 90deg surface temp for 1hr. While still printable with considerable pressure, the car was a lot harder and all seemed well. The shock and horror of the rest of the crew was put to bed yesterday afternoon when the car sanded and surfaced out better than even the Shelby spoken of in part I. I've been transfered back to the Fabrication group in the company and while that had nothing to do with this job I couldn't be happier. GOOD BYE PAINT SHOP!!! I actually like my job again. Saving the flame job was definately leaving the group on a high note.

So why did it work and why would I try it? Did this once before on job that a previous employee for got to add catalyst in some DAU82 years ago. I mixed a "hotter' load of clear with a dash of extra DAU2 and the whole surface hardened. Didn't have too much to lose as it was just 2 rear fenders, and that car (a 1934 V12 Packard) went on to senior champion status.

The extra catalyst was able to penetrate the soft surface below and "kick" the whole thing. Ever have fiberglass not harden? Long, long ago tried a real hot load of resin and saved that job with no adverse affects...that's what gave me the idea on the Packard, and the Packard gave me idea for this one. While I don't recommend or condone this type of "behavior" (we all want to do things right), it's just one of those "get outta trouble" notes you might need some day. I was told today that car polished and surfaced to perfection and the remaining crew is pretty happy. I'll see it tomorrow.

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Old 04-14-2005, 06:35 PM
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The extra catalyst was able to penetrate the soft surface below and "kick" the whole thing. Ever have fiberglass not harden? \

*********************************************

Not to burst your bubble but number one the last coat of clear can NEVER at this point totally cure out and there is no such thing as the catalyst penetrating the first clear to kick it.

There is a 100% fact known on something like this. The last set of clear will peel only a matter of when. Call any paint company, don't take my word.
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Old 04-15-2005, 08:15 AM
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Highlander, keep your fingers crossed. Hopefully the material will lockup below your last application of clear.
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Old 04-17-2005, 08:25 AM
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Sorry I didn't give deeper detail. The car had been sanded carefully 3 times with either 1500 or 200 grit paper. The "layer" of remaining clear amounted to 1-3mils checked by gauge and deduction from unsanded areas like the hood aplique tabs, etc. against areas already sanded. One edge of one of the pearl flames looked scary close to going through. Before applying the final save, the car was sanded with 2000 overall and cleaned with mild soap and water, then quickly wiped with wax and grease remover. We kept temp to a max of 75deg measured on the surface with a temp gun. We tested an area under the lic plate mount for lifting and wierd s#!t. All appeared well and with the blessing of the gun we went for it. I was able to see the car on Fri afternoon. One thing I don't have is a gauge to measure hardness. I guess my gauge is the tried and true thumbnail test of 30yrs. Pretty freakin hard guys. REAL hard. I know you can thumbnail just about any new urethane finish and leave a lil mark, even some finishes months old and I realize some of what's seen is surface "resiliance" vs softness. This surface as of fri is hard as a honeymoon...well, you get the idea.

Like I said before, I don't recommend this as regular practice, and while I sense sucess, it just may do some wierd s#!t some months down the road. I will stick by my thought above tho...GOOD BYE PAINT SHOP!!!

And as before I respect and thank all of you who've posted discussing this topic.
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Old 04-17-2005, 12:00 PM
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[QUOTE=BarryK]The extra catalyst was able to penetrate the soft surface below and "kick" the whole thing. Ever have fiberglass not harden? \

*********************************************
QUOTE]
I've had fiberglass that didn't harden but it seemed to be the fault of the catalyst. I did the job in cold weather which seems to take a fair bit longer to cure however after two days it was still tacky. After applying heat it still stayed tacky. I mixed up a new batch with new catalyst, I applied it by brush over the previous tacky coat of resin. (This first coat was just a coat of resin with a few patches of matte). The whole thing kicked and I had no problem with it later (one year ago).
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Old 04-17-2005, 12:20 PM
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I had the same problem with glass last week, after applying heat all day it was still tacky.
So I REMOVED it and applied new, and as you can guess I'm sure it worked fine, and I KNOW it’ll be fine 5 years down the road, lol.

My dad used to always say “Next time don’t think ” took we years to realize what he meant by that because he never really explained himself, but now as an adult I get it!

Next Time KNOW!


Rick.
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