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Old 02-02-2012, 10:18 AM
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Holley 4150 600 CFM question

I'm rebuilding a Holley 4150 600 cfm carb that has been sitting in a box in a garage for 25 years. Does anyone have suggestions on what to replace (besides a rebuild kit)? Also I have been looking at summit and jegs and see that there are a couple different kits and was wondering what would be good for me. I have a '48 chevy stylemaster with a 283 sbc, 327 heads, torker II intake, th350 tranny, and currently the same type of carb. The list number for the one sitting in a box is 4776-2. I almost forgot, the metering blocks have a rectanglur plastic tube coming out of them and going into the float bowls. It's kinda flat and stops right before the float adjusting nut. Any idea if this is important or can I remove it?
Thanks for any advice.

Sincerely,
Willard

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Old 02-02-2012, 11:16 AM
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A Holley trick kit has everything you'll need for the carb rebuild. Those retanglur things are to keep the fuel from coming out the vent tubes on hard acceleration. For better performance a vacuum secondary 600 cfm carb and a 180 degree manifold such Edelbrocks Performer would make a smoooooooooth ride with better mpg with your 350 trans.
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:08 PM
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A vacuum secondary is what's on there now. I'm trying to do this on the cheap with the smallest down time for my car. I'm a married guy with kids and I drive this to work. How come those plastic tubes aren't in the exploded diagrams? Would I be able to put the vacuum secondary on the 4150 DP?
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Old 02-02-2012, 01:38 PM
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The vent tubes are an integral part of fuel flow so don't mess with them. They will not negatively affect performance.

As far as what to replace. I would go thru and make sure all of the passages were free and clear and install new gaskets, power valves, needle / seat assembly and make sure you go up a couple numbers on jets to account the alcohol in our gas these days. Make sure you replace the float adjuster gaskets (2) because they will leak the first time you adjust them. As far as float adjustment I flip the bowl upside down and adjust the top of the float to .450" from the roof of the float bowl for initial run in. For a street car I would also consider installing the white plastic floats for durability as some of the old brass floats will develop leaks in the solder lines and start to take on fuel.

I think that is the singlemost hardest problem I have ever had to find as the carb will run right on start up and then start having all kinds of stumbling problems that you will never find, unless you remove the float and fell it heavy with fuel sloshing in it...

Vac secondary swap is a pain as you need to change baseplate and vac pod and make sure your carb has main body has a port lined up with the sec pick up in the baseplate. I would say you can get the 600 mechanical to run as good or better than the one you have on the car. If it does not, rebuild the vac sec while you are running the Mechanical and swap back and forth until you get what you want.
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Old 02-02-2012, 02:19 PM
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Thank you for your posts, very sound advice. How do I protect the flat vent tubes when dipping the metering blocks in a chemical solution?
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:01 PM
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They are held in with a small pin in some carbs and pressed in, in others. The best thing to do is replace them.

I purchase them by the 100's from BLP Carbs. You can get them there or in some kits or if you need them I can ship you a pair and any other replacement part you might need as I have about 100 of everything pertinent to a Holley carb in my racetrack carb box. I think they run a little over a dollar a piece, Summit or Jegs may also have them. If you need more info on the carb or anything you can't find on the www just pm me.
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