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Old 11-01-2008, 09:28 PM
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Holley 600 650 ?

My new engine needs a new carb and I still can't deside, between a holley 600 or 650 DP? right now I've got a 750 3310 vac. sec. that I'm selling

Usually you would go for a 650 for a bigger cammed 350 but mine is designed with a smaller lift and I don't know if the bottom end will take 6500rpm all the time, maybe you guys can help me out.
Thanks

355 2-bolt with 9.3 to 9.7 compression
stock bottom end except for these semi flat tops
edelbrock RPM intake
Bowtie Phase II heads 182cc runners not ported (I have the flow numbers to)
1.5 roller rockers
custom ground Crower cam
-------------Intake----Exhaust
Adv. Dur.-----286-------289
Lift----------.455------.464
Dur. .50------225-------229
Lobe Sepration----108
intake centerline----104
cam was installed with 4 degrees adv.

1 5/8th full length headers, 2.5 exhaust with origional 40's and 2.25 from just before rear end to the corners

th-400, B&M stage 2 shift kit, 3000 B&M stall

3.73 12-bolt posi

It's in a 1981 2wd K-5 around 4100lbs.
I will be driving it around the city, but I preferably want it set up for the track

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Old 11-01-2008, 09:58 PM
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Granted you have a loose converter, but 4100 lbs and an auto transmission to me sounds like you would be better off with the -3310 you have. Dial in the right secondary spring and you would be in good shape.

If you really want a mech secondary carb on there go for the small one. Even the smaller 600 cfm carb will support more HP than what you're making and has a better chance of producing good driveability than a larger one.

It is a truck, after all. Curious - what height of tire are you running?
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Old 11-01-2008, 10:14 PM
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well if I do want to keep a vac. I think I would get a 650 vac. thats what I was originally deciding upon 600 DP or 650 vac.
but i do remember reading that it's better to have a vac. on a heavier car, but I did want it for 1/4 mile purposes so that tells me to get a DP??
plus mine is already on ebay



for the driving tires there 28" but i plan on buying a set of slicks for the track and those will be 275/50-15 (26")
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Old 11-01-2008, 10:25 PM
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o and I have the Desktop Dyno of my engine to, what do you think of it?
RPM HP TQ
2000 143 375
2500 180 378
3000 219 384
3500 269 403
4000 319 419
4500 369 430
5000 409 430
5500 442 422
6000 463 405
6500 474 383
7000 482 362
7500 479 336

with 650cfm, and small tube headers open exhaust
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Old 11-01-2008, 10:44 PM
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my engine combo is very close to yours and im running a Holley 650 vac. granted mine is in a car with a 5 speed and 3.73 gears but It seems to work extremely well for my application.
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Old 11-02-2008, 02:44 AM
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It takes a pretty hairy 350 to need more than 650, but if its a strip-only car a 750 might shave a half a tenth.

For the strip, just make sure your WOT vacuum is less than .5" and you will be OK. For street stuff, tuning for 1-1.5" will help part throttle and throttle response. Going bigger to reduce that vacuum usually results in poorer street manners and tougher tuning, but it will pick up 3-4 hp.

In my opinion, its never worth it to go big for a few ponies, but then again I rarely go to the strip. Drivability is always the biggest factor for me.
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Old 11-02-2008, 04:25 AM
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yea, I didn't really want a 750 anyway. but yea i would rather have it set up for driving at part throttle, so would that be about the same as going from a 650 to a 600, it would get alot better throttle control, and not that much less in power and ET
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Old 11-02-2008, 05:49 PM
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And, if I get the 600 DP I'm probibly going to shave the choke tower off, what do you guys think of this on the street? I know it will give me better throttle response, and if I get a 650 vac. I might do it but not sure
how will this effect everything, and my choices?
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Old 11-03-2008, 01:39 AM
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shaving the choke tower is usually a last resort to getting the last 3 cfm from a carb. It removes nearly all of your streetability (depending on climate) and offers another 1/10th of a hp in most applications.

Listen... I'm not sure how you plan on using this in real life, but when it comes to carbs, DON'T overdo it unless you're willing to put up with a finnicky, strip-only ride. Carbs have gotten much better over the years concerning closing the gap between street and strip, but unless you make an accurate target or goal of what you plan to do with the car, you'll end up disappointed with how you've tuned it.

A 600 cfm carb might give up 4 hp, but the benefits are VERY notable in street manners. A 10000000 cfm carb might pick up 4 hp, but at what cost?
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Old 11-03-2008, 09:35 PM
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There's a nice sized unit from Barry Grant in their 'twin squirter' line (double pumper) rated at 575 cfm but fitted with annular boosters. That might work well for you. Doesn't come with a choke though....

PM their tech guy, he kicks around on the site here.
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Old 11-04-2008, 03:13 PM
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625-600 vac. sec. would work well. clearly no need for any bigger. Ive got 770 CFM on my 454 & its more than I need.
Also your DD results are tainted. first, that motor isnt making power to 7000 RPMs. secondly, that cam profile wont work well at all in a 4100 lbs. truck with a smallish C.I.D. small block
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