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Old 03-01-2003, 11:20 PM
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Post Holley 650 Spread Bore

I picked up a Holley 650 Spread Bore at a deal I couldn't turn down. I'll be replacing a Rochester Quad with this Holley. It is a used carb, but it looks real well taken care of. I have some questions:

1. Is it just a knee-jerk reaction to go out and get a rebuild kit (which are no longer real economical) and rebuild the whole carb. Or, does anybody at least try out the carburator first especially if it came off the same type of engine? (The car it came off of was scrapped and the carb was not the problem)

2. What are the weakest components on these carburators that I should be looking to replace if I have a problem that wasn't there with the Rochester.

3. I saw a Holley on a show car and the guy who owned it figured out how to "anodize" his fuel bowls making them look a beautiful gold color. This carb looked better than the Holley chrome out there now. How is this process done, and is it something I could do at home before I mount the Holley?

PS - I know if I'm going to take off the bowls, I'm gonna need to buy the kit.

4. Where can I get an electric choke kit for less than the rediculously high price of $50? I mean that is highway robbery!


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Old 03-01-2003, 11:51 PM
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Anodizing cannot be done at home. The look however can be acheived at home, there are rattle can coatings that will give you the look needed, but not recomended for the interior of the carb. You could also use a transparent powder of your choice of color if you have a home powder coating kit that many companies sell. This is safe for the entire carb. You could also get it done at a shop for a measly sum of money.

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Old 03-01-2003, 11:56 PM
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i had got a spread bore holley off E bay last year, it performed well, but I didn`t keep it long, When i looked up the price of a rebuild kit i was stunned, $75 bucks, so I looked elsewhere, and found http://www.carshopinc.com/product/AED.shtml carries these kits at a good price, the Holley kit is 3 kits in one box and that`s why they cost $75. why I didn`t keep mine was because I didn`t like it, it`s a dead end of the holley family. the back mounting holes, you must use studs that are just the right lenth, otherwise they hit the bowl and the carb won`t seal. you have to pick the carb up, slide the nut into place between the bowl and the throttle plate, then lower the carb on the stud just to start the nut. I really have no other complaints on it, all I run are Demons now, most due to outstanding quality that holley`s lack.
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Old 03-02-2003, 01:39 AM
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You might find Kaylah that rebuilding an old carb and hoping to restore it's appearance is more expensive (when you consider labour) than just buying a new one. The Demons are the ideal choice but a cheaper alternative exists with the Holleys or Edelbrock series. You get what you pay for.
“She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself.”

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Old 03-03-2003, 05:50 AM
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Yes Chuck, I noticed. I saw that a "chrome bowl" set from Holley was $61 plus shipping. My first instinct was that the 650CFM would perhaps perform better than the Rochester, not the appearance. But I was wondering how complicated it would be to "pretty things up a bit" before I installed the Holley.

I got the Holley for substantially less than $100, and it looks real clean. I think I'm just going to swap it out without doing anything (except installing an electric choke). If it performs better than the Quad, then I'll be very happy. If not I'll be back at the board with a belly ache .

I have to save for a BG...those things are the bomb, but I can't find even a reman for less than $300.

I think you know what I have underneath my hood (1986 LG4). Do you like a Holley intake? E/B Performer? With the 650CFM (Model 4175), what might be the best combo? And what about the EGR?

Again, my first instinct is to hold onto it. I had an old Club Wagon with a 351W HO. The prior owner swapped out engines so I ended up with a '88 351 instead of a '85 like the rest of the van. He/she left the PCV and EGR systems a mess, and it was a rough idler. I got in there and tried to figure it all out with my Haynes and it didn't make sense. So I drove up to the Ford dealer and the parts guy was more than happy to help me identify the motor.

Well I got the jist of the system, but I had to do a couple "fabrications" to hook everything up right (it was an FI motor that became carbuerated). After that, that wagon ran like the Dickens and it idled smooth. In fact, that 351W/C6 combo was the best thing I ever experienced in a Ford...totally changed my outlook on Fords. I gave the van to my brother, but I still miss that thing. Anyway, all that to say I think the EGR needs to stay.

Here's a tip I learned from the Ford Van experience: Don't drive to the parts store with the dog house off even if you are in the midst of working on it! Shew!

Please add anything you (or anyone else) have that might help.

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