[edubois]

Looking for the best mounting location for a holley electric fuel pump on 71 chevelle. Is it better in front of the tank over the rear somehow or behind the tank on the frame? They say to mount it so that it is gravity fed, but have heard that's not necessary. thanks in advance

[5.0Towncar]

I've seen alot of 'em mounted on the fender under the hood and right next to the pump is the regulator. Steve

[Lash]

I've always mounted mine in front of the rear wheel on the frame.It is better to let the pump push the gas than make it suck the gas all the way to front.What ever you decide make sure you put your inline filter between the tank & the pump.

[5.0Towncar]

Why not an electric pump in back and a lower pressure pump pre-regulated in front???? Steve

[BOBCRMAN@aol.com]

if you are using a stock tank, anywhere near the fuel tank is ok. Holley pumps are made to push , mount your regulator as close to the carbs as posible. If you are using a fuel cell with a low, or bottom outlet(illegal for a street vehicle) mount the pump to the rear and lower than the tank.

[edubois]

Thanks for the input fellas...

[ztoy]

Here is a quote from Summitt (sp?) racing about the holley blue pump>

"Electric pumps such as the Holley Blue, are not really designed for continuous use, but mainly for Race. The pump must be gravity fed, where its not designed to siphon out of the top of a stock tank, push the fuel up the line, and fight the G forces pushing the fuel back down the line. This stresses the motor in the pump and causes it to overheat. The fuel must be up against the pump at all times. This requires the use of a fuel cell or a sump welded into the bottom of the current tank. The pump should then be mounted even with or below the outlet on the sump".

I read this to mean you need to have fuel constantly in the line feeding the pump with no air present. My stock fuel tank has the line coming out of it at the top and I am under the impression it would need to be coming out on the bottom side with the pump even with the outlet of the tank, or lower, thus being gravity fed. The pressure of the fuel riding over the height of the pump would "force" the fuel down the line into the pump. I asked Summitt for some input on this and the quote is what the provided. My Holley blue was overheating and quitting last summer and I think this is why, air in the line and not fuel. I think the fuel flowing thru the pump also helps cool the motor, where air in the line, will not. They also advise using a relay to feed power to the pump. I have heard this from several people also.
Just some food for thought. Let me know how things go for you....

[KULTULZ]

[quote]I read this to mean you need to have fuel constantly in the line feeding the pump with no air present. My stock fuel tank has the line coming out of it at the top and I am under the impression it would need to be coming out on the bottom side with the pump even with the outlet of the tank, or lower, thus being gravity fed. The pressure of the fuel riding over the height of the pump would "force" the fuel down the line into the pump. I asked Summitt for some input on this and the quote is what the provided. My Holley blue was overheating and quitting last summer and I think this is why, air in the line and not fuel. I think the fuel flowing thru the pump also helps cool the motor, where air in the line, will not. They also advise using a relay to feed power to the pump. I have heard this from several people also.

Just some food for thought. Let me know how things go for you....<hr></blockquote>

Good observation. On a carbed car, the electric pump should be below the fuel supply, even if it entails modifying the pickup bung on the tank. It would also be beneficial while doing this modification to add a pickup sump and baffles.

On early FORD production FI passenger cars/light truck, there were two pumps used, an in tank pump (transfer-low pressure) and a inline pump (hi-pressure). Later, they went to just a hi-pressure pump in the tank.

There is a voltage limiting kit that will supply reduced voltage to the in tank pump during normal driving and then supply full battery voltage in high demand or WOT situations. This reduces wear on the drive motor.

<a href="http://www.fuel-pumps.net/fuelpumpsfaq.html" target="_blank">-Fuel Pump Theory-</a>

<a href="http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/apr2002/1017668797.Eg.r.html" target="_blank">Why In Tank Electric Fuel Pumps Don't Cause Fires-</a>

From Kenne-Bell website;

How can I tell if my filter assembly, meter, throttle body inlet hoses or manifolds are restrictive and losing HP?

[quote]Use the time-proven Kenne Bell approach. Flow the individual pieces on a flow bench. If you don't have access to a bench, install a tap behind each component in the inlet track, make a dyno pull or a WOT run on the street in low or second gear and read the vacuum gauge. If it's "0" there are no losses and, therefore, upgrading components will not help. However, if there is a 4" Hg reading - that's 2 psi of lost atmospheric boost and 20HP (1 psi=10HP). Works on carbureted engines also.<hr></blockquote>