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Unfortunately there is no "set it exactly like this" instructions- you will need to juggle the fast idle speed using the screw shown below and the "choke on duration" to get it where you can let the engine warm up w/o stalling and to be able to drive off w/o stalling while the choke is still partially closed.
Turning the choke cover sets the choke on duration as well as what step the fast idle cam/screw is used. The fast idle step that you use is going to depend on how far the choke cover has to be rotated to get the duration of choke on you need for the engine to warm up enough to drive. Juggling the two will get you where you have a long enough duration, w/sufficient rpm for the engine to remain running. Click on the image for a pdf of the INSTALLATION, TUNING, AND ADJUSTMENT MANUAL for your carb.
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Thanks cobalt,
I clearly understand your post, there may be a bit of juggling to get it right. I guess what I need to know is (and this sounds funny comming from a man in his 50s) what is the correct way to start a cold car with a Holley carb? One shot of accelerator and then pump? or Crank and hold the accelertor in a bit, or pump it slightly. They both have very different results in terms of what teh initial fast idle will be. I've been driving fuel injected cars for so long that I forget how we used to do it in the old days....;-) Vic |
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Key on, press down the pedal to floor once, let off turn the key to start. Sets the choke on high step idle and drops a little fuel in so it starts.
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The problem with electric chokes is they don't work off of engine temperature. They usually open to fast and close way to soon after shutting the car down.
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Artificial Intelligence is no match for Natural Stupidity Chet |
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Quote:
The key doesn't actually need to be in the "ON" position, but if you choose to do it that way, be sure to start it immediately because the choke will begin to open as soon as it gets voltage from the key being in the on position, unless you have it wired to only receive voltage after the engine starts. |
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I decided to pull the plastic choke housing off the carb just to inspect it.
I compared it to one from another one of my Holley carbs. The one I pulled off seemed to have a much weaker spring. I put the other, stiffer-spring, housing on the carb and the choke now works as I expected. The original one was set two or three notches rich, but I have had to set the replacement one at the center mark as the fast idle didn't come off fro 5 minutes or so...! It looks like it was just a bad choke spring. Or maybe the guys who rebuilt the carb just reused the old one because it looked to be in good shape. Either way...thanks everyone for your input. Vic |
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