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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2012, 04:59 PM
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ok... the carb is being used on a ford 460 that is bored .30 over and has an RV(?) cam. c6 tranny

Its currently in a suzuki samurai on a broncho frame . It was used by the previous owner in mud drags (it only gets ran in first gear)

There is a float in the secondary fb, its a black plastic one.

I dont have a tach on it and all i can say about the bogging is that the throttle has to be very slowly cracked and then once moving (apx 6-10 mph) its responsive.

About the idle; its smooth and at a significantly higher RPM in neutral/park. once kicked into 1st it sounds and feels choppy and has significantly lower RPM's.

As soon as my trick kit and tach come in i can give more precise detail about the issues.

Last edited by Steven017; 06-11-2012 at 05:27 PM.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-11-2012, 10:31 PM
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Once the carb is done, get a timing light on it and see what the timing is:

initial
total (w/vacuum advance disconnected and the line to the carb plugged)
rpm the total mechanical advance is all in by

What happens sometimes is the initial timing is too low, causing the primary butterflies to be opened so far to get it to idle that the engine is not running on the idle circuit; instead it is running mostly on the transition slots. If this is the case, the engine will idle high and drop down once it's put in gear, and the off-idle response will be poor at best. This can be magnified by not having enough torque converter stall rpm and to a lesser extent not enough rear gear ratio.

Take a look here and you can get an idea of what you'll be looking for, timing curve-wise. The page is on the GM HEI, but the info is basically the same for a Duraspark ignition or even a points-type ignition and distributor as far as the timing curve info goes.

If you don't have a dial back timing light, the link above has a link to a page showing how to easily make a temporary timing tape that will allow you to set the curve w/o a special timing light. Cost is nil.
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Old 06-12-2012, 09:57 PM
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I appreciate the guidance. I will put said methods into practice and keep you posted.
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:47 PM
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well i rebuilt the carb. Threw it on the motor and im not getting any fuel to the engine.

The fuel bowls are full..... but nothing more than that.


Now what?
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steven017
well i rebuilt the carb. Threw it on the motor and im not getting any fuel to the engine.

The fuel bowls are full..... but nothing more than that.


Now what?
When you work the throttle open and closed, do you see streams of fuel shooting into the primary bores (one stream per bore)? You will probably need a flashlight, prop open the choke so you can see while you open the throttle.
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:11 PM
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No fuel is shooting into the primaries...
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Old 06-13-2012, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steven017
No fuel is shooting into the primaries...
Earlier I forgot this is a Holley not a Q-jet. Anyway, when you remove the sight plugs you have fuel in the bowls?

Was the accelerator pump check valve replaced under the shooter? How about the red rubber umbrella on the primary float bowl, under the accelerator pump diaphragm? If yours has the check ball and bail you won't use an umbrella valve.

HERE is an article w/photos of the accelerator pump, etc. that may help.
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:30 PM
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The accelerator pump check valve (little red umbrella thing) was replaced and i clipped it short so it would not interfere with the float.
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Old 06-13-2012, 10:11 PM
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Everything was put together just the way it was when i took it apart except for one thing.... the power valve.

Here's the my attempt at trying to describe what the differences were.



Would this make any difference?
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2012, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steven017
Would this make any difference?
In a word, no.

Did you hold each replacement gasket up to the old one to verify they are the same?

Did you put the bowl w/the accelerator pump back on the primary side of the carb?
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2012, 08:49 AM
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Yes and Yes.
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Old 06-14-2012, 01:36 PM
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I jut disassembled it again to double check the gaskets and they were correct. Im thinking passages on the metering blocks are plugged so in going to soak them in some carb cleaner some more and hope that loosens up any debris.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2012, 02:52 PM
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The pump is fed from the bottom of the fuel bowl, are the floats set correctly ?

When you pulled the bowls off was there gas in the float bowl's ?

The needle valve can be sticking closed, it wouldn't be the first time it happened after a rebuild.

When cleaning, Blow it out back-words so it don't go further into it.

The difference's on the power valve is for more flow with the larger opening, after market parts do look different as changes are made to design even from the same Manufacture.
The tip sticks into the metering block there is enough clearance even if is a little longer.
It may matter on the P V number when it opens, usually a 6.5 in the box.
The number is on the front side that sticks into the fuel bowl.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-14-2012, 03:20 PM
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I believe the floats are correct. It wont idle so it just fills with fuel and then ill adjust through the sight plugs.

plenty of gas is getting in the bowls

What 'needle valve' are you talking about?
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Old 06-14-2012, 11:34 PM
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Found the problem... it was the needle valve under the accelerator pump discharge nozzle that was stuck. popped it out wiped it down and now it starts right up! thanks for all the help guys!

If i run into trouble again, ill be back
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