[Steven017]

Hi, I have a holley carb marked 80457-2 2438. and i cant for the life of me narrow down witch model it is or what rebuild and/or trick kit to get for it. All the pics I see of this part number (80457-2) have different looking fuel bowls than mine.

I'm stumped .

Here's some pics

[FmrStrtracer]

Someone has swapped out the fuel bowls and added a secondary metering block(instead of the metering plate that came stock)

Order the trick kit for the 80457-2, and you might have to also order bowl gaskets(for center hung floats and metering block gaskets).

When you take it apart, compare the old gaskets to the new to make sure they are the same ones.

You can also contact holley by phone or at their website, they may make one kit that will cover what you have.

[Steven017]

Thanks for the fast reply! Those trick kits are expensive i think ill start with a rebuild.

I pulled it off of a ford 460 and it runs good, except it wants to die if i get on the gas too quick.

another problem is that it idles smooth in neutral but once its in first gear (auto trans.) it sounds rough and spastic up until about 2000 rpm (guess)

Any guesses to what might cause this?

Also, when i pulled it off the motor it was sitting on a 1/4" thick (apx.) gasket that i don't see in the pics of any of there kits. Do I need one?

[S10 Racer]

Originally Posted by Steven017

I pulled it off of a ford 460 and it runs good, except it wants to die if i get on the gas too quick.

Probably the accelerator pump(s) need replaced.

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by Steven017

Hi, I have a holley carb marked 80457-2 2438. and i cant for the life of me narrow down witch model it is or what rebuild and/or trick kit to get for it. All the pics I see of this part number (80457-2) have different looking fuel bowls than mine.

Your Holley began life as a 4160, 600 cfm vacuum secondary carb.

Originally it had 64 primary jets, a 65 power valve, and a black secondary spring and a 31 shooter. It would have used a 134-39 secondary plate (that plate equals about a 69 secondary jet), but now there's a metering block instead. If it has rear power valve, the 69 secondary jet will be too big- you'll have to look to see if the secondary block has a PV or not.

The way it is now, it has been converted to a semi-4150 w/center hung float bowls. By the looks of it, you either have a pair of primary metering blocks (both metering blocks look to have idle mixture adjustment screws) or more likely the blocks are from a 4150 carb w/4-corner idle (the rear block doesn't look to have a vacuum port like a primary block). But who knows if the carb is actually set up for 4-corner idle.

In any event, as long as it was running well on an engine, you might be OK by just rebuilding it. The original kit was a p/n 37-119 (common kit for a huge selection of 4160 Holley carbs), but that kit will not have the right bowl and block gaskets. The bowl/block gaskets can be bought separately, though.

[Steven017]

Well somebody knows there carbs . I just ordered a trick kit and it appeared to contain all the gaskets I need. Ill take some pics of the blocks I have in a bit.

[Steven017]

here's the blocks

[cobalt327]

No PV in the secondary block, so you're good to go there.

As far as the 4-corner idle, your carb would not have had it originally, being as how it came w/a metering plate instead of a secondary metering block.

To see if the carb has been set up for 4-corner idle, see if the secondary idle mixture screws are lightly bottomed out (tightened CW into the metering block with no turns out). If the screws are set like that, w/no turns CCW to allow the idle air/fuel mixture to flow, it's a fairly safe bet the carb was not modified for 4-corner idle. If you find that the secondary idle mixture screws are not lightly bottomed out and instead are a turn or two out from being lightly bottomed, the carb may have been modified for 4-corner idle.

But to know for sure, I would need to see the base plate off the carb body, facing "up" to see if one of the passages is blocked off. And then the baseplate would need to be inspected for having been drilled so the idle mixture has a place to enter the secondary air stream. Also the secondary curb idle holes in the main body have to be drilled out same as they are on the primary side. Of course, there a chance the 4-corner baseplate was used from the same carb the secondary metering block came from. In that case, all that would be needed is the main body secondary idle holes drilled.

In any event, it's not all that hard to modify your carb to have 4-corner idling adjustments if it's not already been modified. But if it is found the mods haven't been done, and the carb was idleing OK, no problem- just lightly seat the secondary idle mixture screws and call it good.

[1BAD80]

ditto with cobalt327

there are many articles in the Knowledge Base on this site with all the info on DYI carb rebuilding - tuning & troubleshooting
http://www.hotrodders.com/kb/carburetor-articles

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by 1BAD80

ditto with cobalt327

there are many articles in the Knowledge Base on this site with all the info on DYI carb rebuilding - tuning & troubleshooting
http://www.hotrodders.com/kb/carburetor-articles

The first link on the first page (4G manual) was broken. I posted a new link on the linked-to thread: http://oldcarmanualproject.com/manua...eMan/index.htm

Also on the first page, the following link is broken (no way for me to fix):

Carter AFB Selection and Tuning Guide
Details on selecting and tuning a Carter carburetor.
http://www.carburetor.ca/pdf_manuals...BSelection.pdf

[Steven017]

Thanks for the links guys!

here's a pic of the base plate from the top...



Thanks again for all the help.

[TommyK]

Originally Posted by Steven017

...except it wants to die if i get on the gas too quick.

another problem is that it idles smooth in neutral but once its in first gear (auto trans.) it sounds rough and spastic up until about 2000 rpm (guess)

Any guesses to what might cause this?

Also, when i pulled it off the motor it was sitting on a 1/4" thick (apx.) gasket that i don't see in the pics of any of there kits. Do I need one?

Not enough idle fuel.

The thick gaskets helps to insulate the carb from manifold heat and prevent fuel percolation. If it is in good shape reuse it.

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by Steven017

Thanks for the links guys!

here's a pic of the base plate from the top...

Thanks again for all the help.

If it was modified for 4-corner idle, the channels would be blocked (shown w/red arrows below). I suspect the secondary metering block's idle mixture screws are seated (all the way CW), and not turned out (CCW) any.

[Steven017]

tommyk when you say not enough idle fuel would I have to just adjust the curb idle speed screw?

and cobalt the screws werent seated but I assume they shoul have just been closed then

[cobalt327]

There IS a float in the secondary side, right? It's not in the photo is why I ask.

Getting back to your question about the drivability issues ("...in first gear (auto trans.) it sounds rough and spastic up until about 2000 rpm (guess)..."), does it run rough if you hold it steady below 2000 rpm, or does it only act up as you are accelerating?

Does the engine it was on have a bigger than stock cam?

You can use this to help you ask about it.