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Old 01-17-2005, 01:57 PM
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Holley Carb pushing my last nerve!

okay. I'm really getting fed up now with this holley, I finally got the float levels set! and now it doesn't seem to respond to tuning..could something be blown in the carb? I bought it rebuilt from a friend...never used after it was rebuilt. I've been told that if a carb is to big for a car that will happen. but it's a holley 600 4160 and there used to be a crappy 570 or something q-jet on it. 84 305 H.O. with headers and little mods here and there done. should I just take it to a carb shop? I'd rather do it myself. changing the jets around maybe? I'm not very good with carbs. but I was told to screw in one screw all the way and then loosen it out till the idle smooths out but when I screw it in all the way it still idles like **** and smokes like it's to rich...I'm really at my wits end please help me out here.

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Old 01-17-2005, 02:10 PM
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non responsive

If the carb is not responsive to adjustments it is usually the rear butterfly out of adjustment. Remove the carb and you will see a small screw coming through the base plate and hitting the rear butterfly linkage. If the rear butterflies are too far open the car will not respond to idle adj. Back the screw out until it no longer touches the linkage. Screw it in until it touches and turn it in 1/4 turn. Replace carb and try again.

Download adj instructions here,
http://holley.com/HiOctn/TechServ/Te.../Instruct.html

Last edited by bracketeer; 01-17-2005 at 02:17 PM.
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Old 01-17-2005, 03:00 PM
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Ditto with Bracketeer's suggestion to get it back to square one. After that, adjust your idle circuits with a vacuum gauge, to its highest reading. Then adjust your idle back down. Good luck
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Old 01-17-2005, 03:20 PM
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Sounds like someone was crutching a long cam.
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Old 01-17-2005, 03:46 PM
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i bought a 600 cfm holley for my wifes 72 ventura from a guy i know through an online drag community. he had it on a olds 455.
(wifes car has chevy 307). when i got it, it had jets in it to accomodate the 455. i re-jetted it for the 307 and it runs fine. (normal cold-blooded chevy when cold still though. lol)
also, there r 2 mixture screws on these carbs, 1 on each side of the front jet plate. i normally turn them in till they seat then back them each out 1- 1 1/2 turns.
i have a set of 62 jets for the carb. depending on where u live, 60-63 jets should get u in the ball park for ur 305.
1 last thing comes to mind, if ur having an idle problem, start looking for vacuum leaks., u would be surprized how poorly a car can run with vacuum leaks. gl.
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Old 01-17-2005, 04:29 PM
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well it ran fine with the qjet till that carb took a dive. should I just cap all open vacuum lines on the holley than try tuning it in? because none of them are capped. the only one hooked up is the main vacuum line which goes to my power brake booster.
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Old 01-17-2005, 05:04 PM
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Most certainly cap all ununsed vac lines!!!

Also did you say that when the idle mixture screw is in all the way(there should be two, one on each side of the front bowl/metering block) that it doesn't die but runs rough and smokes black?

If the floats are set and the idle screws are in all the way but it smokes black then it sounds like a power valve problem to me.
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Old 01-17-2005, 05:32 PM
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well it's more white smoke than black. you know like it's running a tad to rich. I have a feeling I may just get someone who knows what the hell they are doing to tune it in. you guys no anyone or a business, holley. etc. that I could send the carb out to and get them to dial it all in? thanks
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Old 01-17-2005, 06:34 PM
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White smoke usually means you're getting coolant/water into the cylinders.

You can't send just the carb to have it tuned. It'll have to be done on the car. Check your radiator and make sure you aren't losing water first. Then proceed with the tuning.

Larry
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Old 01-17-2005, 07:13 PM
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I would warm the car up completely.Take off the carb and adjust the primary butterfly so the idle transfer slot is looking like a little square opening,not a slot.Put carb back on,turn the mixture screws out 1 turn.mark the idle set screw so if you need to turn it in to run or idle you will know where it should be when your done.If you have no vacuum leaks it may want more idle to run turn it up just so it will idle on its own.try if you had to adjust it to turn the mixture screw out a quarter turn at a time and not if the rpm went up if it did,dial back your idle screw untill it just runs on its own again.then a quarter turn more and wait for 15 secs or so did the rpm go up again? if so keep at this untill you have your idle set scre where you marked it.if you don't do it like this and you run the idle set scew in lots to run,your off the idle circuit and all the tuning of the idle mixture screws will be for naught,you must have most of the transfer slot covered on the bottom.also there are two tiny tiny holes in the venturi that feeds the mixture screws if these are plugged or dirty you will get no action for the mixture screws.I drag race a 350 with a 750 holley on it and have tryed every carb under the sun on it,predator barry grant,rochester,and the best tool i have for tuning them is one of the only gauges in my car an o2 gauge from edelbrock it is a wide band (I think)not the most accurate but it will get you in the ballpark every time for idle mixture and jetting!If you can go to your local speed shop and they sell demon carbs ask them if you can mooch the video that they give with there carbs when they are new I learned a crapload from the video and it applies to the holley as well but if on the other hand the carb you has is hooped:loose throttle shafts, blown power valves or your trying to tune a bad running engine it would be impposible to tune the carb when thats not the problem.I hope this give you some other places to look!!
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Old 01-17-2005, 09:51 PM
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after you cap all the vacuum lines, and hook up the vacuum line going to your distributor, buy a can of ether and spray it around the carb while the car is running. if it idles up there is your problem. and even so a 600 on a 305 is a little big you may need to jet it down. on my 305 that i had i tuned it almost all the way down and it was still a little much, and i had headers and 350 camel hump heads on it. but anyway start with vacuum leaks first.
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Old 01-18-2005, 04:24 AM
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I think he`s forgot to add, he hasn`t changed the ignition, he has no mechanical or vacuum advance, he`s using the factory computer controlled HEI, and without the computers aide and all the sensors connected it doesn`t function, I`ve already mentioned to him twice it must be changed. I believe he`s also using a open adapter under the carb so it would fit on the Q-jet intake and it`ll never adjust out right as these disrupt the vacuum and the fuel signal so in the end it`s not gonna run right.
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Old 01-18-2005, 01:15 PM
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ehh. so I should get a new distributor is what your telling me? well just to let you know I'm slapping an edelbrock intake on there in like a week or two. should I just wait until thats on before I do anything else? if so get a distributor to right?
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Old 01-18-2005, 01:51 PM
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You cant just mix and match computer components with non computer controlled items.

Get the right distributor first. Then come back once you see how its running.
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Old 01-18-2005, 01:54 PM
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white smoke

Modulator valve might have gone. Carb would be sucking up tranny fluid.

When you turn the idle mixture screws in all the way. The motor should die. If it doesn't you have already past the idle circuit and you are running on the primary circuit. This comes back to blown power valve, vacuum leak, or secondary butterfy adjustment.

Last edited by bracketeer; 01-18-2005 at 03:32 PM.
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