[streetrodderbn]

I need to pick the brains of those of you experienced with the holley electric fuel pumps. I think I know the answer, but need to know the fix! the car I am working on is a 37 ford club coupe w/ a 502 h.p. crate engine. the customer plumbed the chassis with a 3/8in. stainless braided fuel line coming from a brand new bob drake stainless steel tank, with stainless steel pickup. the problem started that I could not get fuel to the carb, when I found that the holley fuel pump was plumbed in back wards by the customer! I switched the pump around and got fuel immediately! now, when the car runs for 10 minutes or so, the fuel pressure falls to zero! I'm sure the pump was damaged by trying to push fuel back into the tank, as it uses fuel as a coolant, but now the repair... do I need a "rotor and vane kit"? or that and, a "check valve kit"?!. I notice some seepage around the bottom gasket of gasoline . Whats the best fix?!

[Irelands child]

Originally Posted by streetrodderbn

I need to pick the brains of those of you experienced with the holley electric fuel pumps. I think I know the answer, but need to know the fix! the car I am working on is a 37 ford club coupe w/ a 502 h.p. crate engine. the customer plumbed the chassis with a 3/8in. stainless braided fuel line coming from a brand new bob drake stainless steel tank, with stainless steel pickup. the problem started that I could not get fuel to the carb, when I found that the holley fuel pump was plumbed in back wards by the customer! I switched the pump around and got fuel immediately! now, when the car runs for 10 minutes or so, the fuel pressure falls to zero! I'm sure the pump was damaged by trying to push fuel back into the tank, as it uses fuel as a coolant, but now the repair... do I need a "rotor and vane kit"? or that and, a "check valve kit"?!. I notice some seepage around the bottom gasket of gasoline . Whats the best fix?!

First of all - check that the gas tank has a vent. On some they supply a vented cap, others, you are supposed to drill a hole for a vent. Some tanks even have a separate vent. They usually build these tanks to be used with both an in-tank electric pump with a return line - which appears you are not using. The problem you are describing sound like it just can't get gas - and you do need a vent plus atmosheric pressure to get it to the carb.

A little seepage (black goo) around the gasket is not unusual.

If that fails, then maybe a 'kit' would help the pump - but if it was new, I really dont think there was a problem with it being plumbed backward. With that said, there might have been some crap in the tank that damaged the rotor. And these pumps do not like dirt. I sealed my tank off completely as soon as I got it to prevent car assembly and paint crud from getting in there - what do you have for a filter and is it plugged.

Dave W

[streetrodderbn]

The tank has a vent tube right off the sending unit,that is open to air through a 3/8 hose, and the cap is vented as well. I eliminated that as a culprit by running with the cap off! the fuel line is well away from any heat from exhaust or drive-line, and the system has a fram hpgc-1 filter plumbed in w/ an fittings in the stainless line. the system has normal fuel pressure to the adjustable regulator(set at 6.5 lbs) when cool, but drops to zero after running (even at idle) for 8-10 minutes!

[Double_v23]

Is the pump mounted above or below the fuel level? I have seen problems with pumps losing their pressure because they are mounted in the trunk and they have to work hard to pull the fuel up out of the tank and then push it to the engine.

The pump should be the lowest point on the fuel system.

[Irelands child]

Originally Posted by streetrodderbn

The tank has a vent tube right off the sending unit,that is open to air through a 3/8 hose, and the cap is vented as well. I eliminated that as a culprit by running with the cap off! the fuel line is well away from any heat from exhaust or drive-line, and the system has a fram hpgc-1 filter plumbed in w/ an fittings in the stainless line. the system has normal fuel pressure to the adjustable regulator(set at 6.5 lbs) when cool, but drops to zero after running (even at idle) for 8-10 minutes!

Which Holley pump are you running - red or blue. With the red version you shouldn't need a regulator - they are 97gph/7psig unit. I ran these for years w/o a regulator. The blue one - unfortunately they need one,

Have you pulled the element out of the filter? Replaced it? What can happen is that when you shut down, bigger pieces of crud can drop off and be slowly picked back up while running. That's a stretch - but possible on a new build when folks haven't been careful during the assembly of the tank and lines.

[streetrodderbn]

The tank is a normal 35-40 set up, mounted on top of the rear framerails, the pump inlet is lower than the bottom of the tank, gas will freely run out of the inlet hose to the pump, (it runs down your arm very well while your working on it!! LOL) The only issue I have with the set up is that the customer plumbed the fuel line as follows: tank,pump, filter,carb! so there is no protection to the pump!

[streetrodderbn]

running a holley blue pump, I seriously doubt that huge fram filter is plugged! the car would'nt run for that long if it was, if you let the car sit for a while, you can run wide open with full fuel pressure for another8-10 minutes!

[Irelands child]

Originally Posted by streetrodderbn

The tank is a normal 35-40 set up, mounted on top of the rear framerails, the pump inlet is lower than the bottom of the tank, gas will freely run out of the inlet hose to the pump, (it runs down your arm very well while your working on it!! LOL) The only issue I have with the set up is that the customer plumbed the fuel line as follows: tank,pump, filter,carb! so there is no protection to the pump!

He plumbed it like a standard mechanical pump set up rather then an electric pump arrt. Might consider discussing another inline filter.

I'm using the non-return style Speedway(6"lg x 2" dia) with -6 AN fittings on my roadster.

[Irelands child]

Originally Posted by streetrodderbn

running a holley blue pump, I seriously doubt that huge fram filter is plugged! the car would'nt run for that long if it was, if you let the car sit for a while, you can run wide open with full fuel pressure for another8-10 minutes!

You are right - it is a pretty big filter - but I'd look at the element anyhow, then the regulator diaphragm. THEN a full pump rebuild and in that order.

Good luck!!!
Dave W

[streetrodderbn]

Thanks! I'll tackle this one tonite. I have a spare regulator rebuild kit, and would really like to re-plumb the whole system, and toss the 18 feet of braided hose in favor of stainless hard line! but, some customers are harder to work with than others! I warned him already that without a filter, the pump WILL fail!! But... I guess return business is sweeter when you warned them!!

[68ss]

street,
I had the same problem a while ago. Are you loosing pressure for sure or is the guage telling you you are? I had a liquid filled guage and when it got hot it would look like I had zero fuel pressure. I could shut it off and let it set then I would have pressure!! so I got a hand full of ice after I had lost pressure and held it to the guage and presto my pressure came back. switched to a non liquid filled guage and problem was solved!

[68ss]

Did you take a look at it yet?

[streetrodderbn]

I'm definitely losing all fuel pressure, the engine will quit! the weather in n.e. Ohio has been 0 degrees with -12 wind chill. so, I'm putting off the tear-down for a day or so. my shop is heated, but getting from the house to the shop is a 8 inch deep snow walk to have gas run down your arm working on this one after work! I have a rotor and vane kit, and a regulator rebuild kit ready and waiting. I think I will have a multiple attack to this problem, I plan to disassemble the filter and pump, as well as blow out the new lines and check the regulator for debris!