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Old 07-18-2008, 11:49 AM
BogiesAnnex1 BogiesAnnex1 is online now
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Originally Posted by DENCOUCH
After running the 'FBird-88 build in the driveway to break in the cam, I checked fluid levels, the air in the tires and then took my yellow half-ton for a little drive.

I was thinking that with this cam I was going to have no bottom end, well, I stepped on the gas pedal and proceeded to scare the Holy *** out of myself!

Question; is it legal for an old man to drive around town with this much HP?

This recommended build has a ton more bottom end than my old '73 smog motor, and I am sort of hesitant to mash down on the gas to see what she will do!

This motor is so much more than what I had, believe me! It is scary... fast scary

The only downer is that my old nemisis is still around haunting me... I am losing oil where the oil pan & cam cover mate.

Is the rubber seal supposed to be glued down with permatex to the oil pan & cam cover as well? I just put sealant on the corners where the little tabs are. Was it a mistake to use cork oil pan gaskets? I followed recommended torque specs on the bolts, but I have the unbearable leak

I want to thank all of you guys who hung in there & answered all of my dumb questions over & over again. It is so satisfying to meet people who know what they are talking about!

.......................'FBird-88's 400 HP Motor as built..........................

a basic 350ci SBC short block with flat top pistons
906 GM vortec heads milled .045
Z28-type valves springs minus the inner damper
Stock OEM vortec retainers, seals locks and rocker arms
Isky #201278 camshaft 278-278 .450" .450" lift 234-234@.050" 106? LSA
Weiand Stealth Manifold and Holly 600cfm 4bbl carb
HEI ignition, plugs gapped.050
1-5/8" headers 3" dual exhaust.
remote oil cooler
3200-3400 Stall torque converter
This sounds fantastic, try not to get a ticket, it's so embarrassing to be in court with all those kids and their nopi-tuner street racing tickets.

Oil leaks around the front are such a pain. One has to be careful about the rubber gasket thicknesses where they fit into the lip under the crank there's two. This compounded with after market timing covers and pans, sometimes you just have to fiddle around trimming and sanding on various sections of the gasket to get the fit just right. Permatexing the whole thing isn't a bad idea, note, the lip is a build up of spot welded parts which isn't all that dimensionally accurate and provides a leakage path under the gasket toward the edges where it joins the pan rail gasket. I like the new one piece pan gasket as it seems to get around this issue better than the old multi-piece gaskets. You also have to be careful with cork gaskets not to crush them and also distort the pan and cover under the bolt heads. I make up bunches of hold down tabs, similar to the old valve cover under bolt tabs, to spread the compression load of the bolts over more area which prevent distorting the pan rail under the bolt head. Then I use a stainless Nyloc bolts so that I don't have to turn them in so tightly to keep them from backing out. These techniques gets around crushed gaskets and bent pan rails which leak once like crazy once damaged by "overtightening".


Last edited by BogiesAnnex1; 07-18-2008 at 11:53 AM. Reason: spelling, at 68 years of age I'm still dyslexic with ADD, still hoping to grow up
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