Holy Jesus Great God above, 'FBird-88!!!
After running the 'FBird-88 build in the driveway to break in the cam, I checked fluid levels, the air in the tires and then took my yellow half-ton for a little drive.
I was thinking that with this cam I was going to have no bottom end, well, I stepped on the gas pedal and proceeded to scare the Holy *** out of myself!
Question; is it legal for an old man to drive around town with this much HP?
This recommended build has a ton more bottom end than my old '73 smog motor, and I am sort of hesitant to mash down on the gas to see what she will do!
This motor is so much more than what I had, believe me! It is scary... fast scary :eek:
The only downer is that my old nemisis is still around haunting me... I am losing oil where the oil pan & cam cover mate.
Is the rubber seal supposed to be glued down with permatex to the oil pan & cam cover as well? I just put sealant on the corners where the little tabs are. Was it a mistake to use cork oil pan gaskets? I followed recommended torque specs on the bolts, but I have the unbearable leak :(
I want to thank all of you guys who hung in there & answered all of my dumb questions over & over again. It is so satisfying to meet people who know what they are talking about!
.......................'FBird-88's 400 HP Motor as built..........................
a basic 350ci SBC short block with flat top pistons
906 GM vortec heads milled .045
Z28-type valves springs minus the inner damper
Stock OEM vortec retainers, seals locks and rocker arms
Isky #201278 camshaft 278-278 .450" .450" lift 234-234@.050" 106° LSA
Weiand Stealth Manifold and Holly 600cfm 4bbl carb
HEI ignition, plugs gapped.050
1-5/8" headers 3" dual exhaust.
remote oil cooler
3200-3400 Stall torque converter
Sounds like a ton of fun.
I do hate cork gaskets. Leaking a llil oil is not the end of the world though.. Its normal for some motors. :embarrass
Glad to hear you're enjoying it. I thought you would be impressed.
Makes very impressive power for the $$s spent.
The leaky timing cover/oil pan is repairable.
Some of the aftermarket timing covers have poor QC dimentions.
May need a new timing cover and seal.
break 'er in (keeping a eye on the oil level) and if the rear main seal does not leak, removing the oil pan is not nessessary to make the repair.
There are a few tricks to replaceing the timing cover and ensuring no leaks.
If your holley 600 is the generic #1850 there are a few good upgrades you can do to maximize performance. (rear jetting, power valve etc)
To answer your question, it is totally illegal for an old man to have any fun, per new federal law. You must sell this engine immediately. My address is...
Oil leaks around the front are such a pain. One has to be careful about the rubber gasket thicknesses where they fit into the lip under the crank there's two. This compounded with after market timing covers and pans, sometimes you just have to fiddle around trimming and sanding on various sections of the gasket to get the fit just right. Permatexing the whole thing isn't a bad idea, note, the lip is a build up of spot welded parts which isn't all that dimensionally accurate and provides a leakage path under the gasket toward the edges where it joins the pan rail gasket. I like the new one piece pan gasket as it seems to get around this issue better than the old multi-piece gaskets. You also have to be careful with cork gaskets not to crush them and also distort the pan and cover under the bolt heads. I make up bunches of hold down tabs, similar to the old valve cover under bolt tabs, to spread the compression load of the bolts over more area which prevent distorting the pan rail under the bolt head. Then I use a stainless Nyloc bolts so that I don't have to turn them in so tightly to keep them from backing out. These techniques gets around crushed gaskets and bent pan rails which leak once like crazy once damaged by "overtightening".
Man, dont'cha just HATE it when somebody complains about how their engine runs?
f bird88- that is some build, Isky cam makes 400hp with a 600 cfm holley? what mods were done to the holley 600? i like the low lift idea of that cam. the timming and superior flow keep it pulling. a simple base 350 with vortec heads, can be changed to 400hp quick. i like weiand, but why the stealth ?
what bracket is this build, 13-14 sec ?
I have always like Weiand products, so I ordered one for the Vortec heads. I did a side-by-side comparison with the non-Vortec version I had laying around, and there is some runner differences. If the specs are true, then the Stealth does not run out of steam until around 6200 RPM.
Thanks guys for helping me to make this happen..
machine shop tom
This engine we dynoed had the lowly PProducts Cyclone intake manifold (performer) on it. A high rise like the new weiand stealth or edelbrock rpm should make 8 to 15 hp more.
The engine made 410HP on the superflow dyno. It had either a 650 or 750cfm Holley DP on it. Nothing special to it. Just a bolt together that you can I can do.
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