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Narrowing the guide boss in the bowl is OK, but don't shorten it any.
The arrows are showing the lip that you want to blend into the walls. You will want a 3-angle valve job after you're done w/the grinding. Be careful not to gouge the 45º part of the seat (indicated w/green lines).
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Yeah that lip seems to be pretty restrictive
I Didn't get too carried away yet, the machinist said if he had an extra set of 2.19/1.88 valves he would install them for free and do a 5 angle valve job I kind of wanted him to bore it out before I played with the lip any more. I have another question though, on my other head the valve guide sticking down is huge, it isn't rounded off like the one in the pics. Would it be wise to shape all the intake guides into a cone shape? Thanks, appreciate the response. I feel better now. Someone else told me I took out too much and would loss bottom end from losing velocity. But then I got to thinking, it still will be much better than a square port. |
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A set of larger valves will wipe out most of your hard work. Actually the 2.19 and 1.88 valves are what make these heads work.
Properly done with a Serdi cutter and a 70 degree bowl hog. The sharp edges under the intake seat will be gone. All that is needed is blending the short side radius and you have a super set of budget heads. About the same for exhaust. |
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Also specs on the engine
.60 over Forged .250 dome pistons, arp rod bolts 049 heads with 2.19/1.88 valves stock crank Rollercam, zz502 cam with 1.8 lifters, .558/.576 224/234 dual plane intake |
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