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Old 04-25-2011, 10:53 AM
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hommade A frame gantry crane. supplies?

I know there is 1 in the hommade tools thread but I can't find it.

I'm going to build 1 to use a 2 ton chain hoist on casters for mobility. but it has to fit in an 8' garage, and only needs to be as wide as a basic car. 6' would probably be plenty of room.. Just getting hung up on the design and building materials.. I like metal, and I like 2x3 rectangle tubing, but I think 2x3 may be overkill.. I also want some of it to un bolt for storage and transport but I don't want to loose strength by using bolts.. as far as using a push trolly. I think that would be overkill for my purpose ( dropping cab on frame/ positioning engine/trans and various lawn mower work ) and I think a heavy chain wrapped around the top bar linked togther will give a moveable place for the hoist to get hung.. I want this to have the ability to support 2.5- 3 tons. it will never get used for that, but if I overbuild for the strength, then my uses will never be a problem with safety.. Heaviest this will support will be a 460 Ford w/ C6

Then as far as the hoist. What brand? I looked on Ebay and Amazon and no matter the brand 1 and 2 ton hoists look identical. probably from China. and I can't find any that say from USA.. But prices range from $20-$40, but HF has an 8 ton for like $80 that I might feel better with, altho that's probably a lot slower

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Old 04-25-2011, 01:25 PM
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Also thinking somthing like a engine crane, but taller longer and more stable would be good too. But use a chain hoist on the end instead of a pivioting boom with a hydraulic ram.. all cross brace supported of course
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Old 04-25-2011, 01:52 PM
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The 2x3 will be Ok..build it like an upside down T with some bracing and do the bolted connections so it can come apart. wheels and castors are needed on one of those as it makes life easier. As far as the hoist a chain hoist is what we have used for years on that kind of hoist and these days they all come form china as far as I know..sometimes a good deal can be found on craigslist or a swap meet if you are patient..

Sam..
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Old 04-25-2011, 03:10 PM
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8 ft ceiling does not leave you much room to work with. You may want to attach your hoist to a piece of material that you are planning to use as the main beam and see how much room you have between it and your work. ie, can you really lift a motor high enough to clear the radiator support. I think your hoist hook will be 6 ft above the floor, at best.

Good luck.

Trees
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Old 04-26-2011, 01:20 AM
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Might have to go hydraulic.. I forgot about the 2-3' of chain that is left on the lift side of the hoist at max lift..

How about both hydraulic and mechanical chain hoist?... If I do this as a T design of a very large basic engine hoist. couldn't I make the main post a slide type design, with a hydraulic cylinder on the side to raise and lower the post itself. then hang the chain hoist off the end for fine tuning? really, I have 8' clearence to the garage door mechanisms. the actual celing is about 9'.. this way I could hook onto what I need to, even if the chain hoist is slacked at max lift. pump up the hydraulic cylinder up and raise it up to whatever I need and then drop it down with the chain hoist wherever it needs to go.. for higher lifting I could just use the hydraulic cylinder and unhook the chain hoist.. I do think the main post would need a few spots drilled for a safety pin/ bolt... It would be nice if this could do an engine swap. but if it couldn't. I do have a 2 ton engine crane.. I more or less want somthing to move a body around with easilly and raise/ lower it onto the frame.
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Old 04-26-2011, 10:29 AM
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Little ms paint sketck of what I have in mind.. only issue I think there might be is the cylinder not going down because the weight is offset, but I would think it would still go down, especially If I added a little angle to the cylinder and put it on the inside and had it go to the top support beam

This is shown at basically fully compressed.
Attached Images
File Type: bmp crane1.bmp (1.67 MB, 147 views)

Last edited by matt167; 04-26-2011 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:05 AM
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I think you are overthinking the problem..just use a couple of boat winches at a convenient height and make the lift 7foot 8 inched high so it just clears the ceiling by a little bit. attach a block at the top to guide the cable..

Sam
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Old 04-26-2011, 11:51 AM
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so you mean, instead of using the hydraulic ram or the chain hoist, just use boat winches at the back and hook the cable to the end and make it pretty much a true crane? what do you mean by a block for a guide? using a boat winch crossed my mind, but I was unsure about the strength of the cable, and I do tend to overthink/ over engineer some things that I build..

Could I use 2 heavy duty pully's on the boom instead of a guide block. put the winch's at like 5' up the post?

something like this winch? just have to be careful not to throw it in neutral. that would be bad.. but all boat winches have neutral I think.. I wouldn't get it from this ebay seller, probably off Amazon as they have it too
http://cgi.ebay.com/Fulton-3-200lb-T...-/250740274673

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Old 04-26-2011, 01:57 PM
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I use these

http://www.harborfreight.com/2000-lb...inch-5798.html

They are a bit slower to operate but there is no neutral to them so they will hold in position and yes they will lift a motor and trans if needed..put 2 on one on each side as that will help in balancing a load if needed..

the cable will run to a block in the then to a block in the center of the lift. use a snatch block so it is easy to re rig if needed..

Sam
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Old 04-26-2011, 02:30 PM
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Just as a suggestion - don't over think this. The engine went in with a case strength chain wrapped around the house I-beam and a 2T chainfall and in a less then 7 foot clearance in my basement garage. As the span was a bit more then I preferred, I used a couple of the long construction jacks I own, but could have used common lolly columns or even a couple 2x4's screwed together and wedged in place. The body (even the heavy four door I started with before the roadster) was on and off several times in the same area using a beam connected to the I-beam and made from two 2x6x10 foot long screwed together. Then the final assembly was done in my normal 2 car garage with a 9 foot ceiling. I spread the weight over several floor joists with a couple lengths of 4"x4"x4', dropped a chain down then used two 2T chain falls. That upper floor is well supported by lolly columns and a beam. Unfortunately, I don't have many photos of this operation, but this below is the body, suspended from the two 2T chain falls. As far as my cost - probably less then $25 as most of what I used, I already had



Even a 460 wouldn't "kill" my arrangement or me

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Old 04-26-2011, 02:42 PM
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I'm pretty sure most everyone already knows not to use this type of winch for lifting (even the more expensive ones) but it is worth mentioning anyway. These things are for pulling "dead" loads only and should NEVER be used to lift or pull any load that will fall or spring suddenly when tension is released. There have been a lot of accidents attributed to using these for lifting but still they are used for that purpose by some people anyway, doing so is a dangerous undertaking!

http://www.harborfreight.com/4000-lb...ler-30329.html
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Old 04-26-2011, 03:55 PM
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gantry crane

I've built a couple of heavy swing sets for my kids over the years, 2 inch surplus pipe for the legs and the top beam was a truss, upside down V with straight bottom pipe and braces,the legs telescope into 1 ft pieces of 2 1/2 pipe, then holes drilled to bolt together. One set was from a school that closed down. surplus sale CHEAP , I ve changed a lot of engines and a couple of bodies lifted off with them. . the latest one has a 4 in I beam with 2 trollies from a closed down Ford factory. pennies per pound for the steel The 2 trollies make it nice to have 2 chain hoists that are easy to move. . For the legs I used the V from the front of portable (trailer) classrooms/, A piece of 4 x 6,, 1/4 wall surplus tube for the upright to the I beam. , It has military surplus double castors at each corner wheel, wheel brakes and locks. I have 16 ft walls in the shop and it is tall enough to get the backhoe under and wide enough to fit the 6 wheel equipment trailer underneath, The harbor freight one looks doable for using in a house garage, and it telescopes up. probably cheaper than paying retail for the steel and welding rod.

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Old 04-26-2011, 11:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
I'm pretty sure most everyone already knows not to use this type of winch for lifting (even the more expensive ones) but it is worth mentioning anyway. These things are for pulling "dead" loads only and should NEVER be used to lift or pull any load that will fall or spring suddenly when tension is released. There have been a lot of accidents attributed to using these for lifting but still they are used for that purpose by some people anyway, doing so is a dangerous undertaking!

http://www.harborfreight.com/4000-lb...ler-30329.html
I hate those things.. I'v used them before, but even there intended purpose there a pain to use... actually had to 'sling' the C6 with 1 to get the engine/ trans off the truck. it actually slipped a couple times letting it down. But that's what I had and it did work for that
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Old 04-27-2011, 12:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale
I've built a couple of heavy swing sets for my kids over the years, 2 inch surplus pipe for the legs and the top beam was a truss, upside down V with straight bottom pipe and braces,the legs telescope into 1 ft pieces of 2 1/2 pipe, then holes drilled to bolt together. One set was from a school that closed down. surplus sale CHEAP , I ve changed a lot of engines and a couple of bodies lifted off with them. . the latest one has a 4 in I beam with 2 trollies from a closed down Ford factory. pennies per pound for the steel The 2 trollies make it nice to have 2 chain hoists that are easy to move. . For the legs I used the V from the front of portable (trailer) classrooms/, A piece of 4 x 6,, 1/4 wall surplus tube for the upright to the I beam. , It has military surplus double castors at each corner wheel, wheel brakes and locks. I have 16 ft walls in the shop and it is tall enough to get the backhoe under and wide enough to fit the 6 wheel equipment trailer underneath, The harbor freight one looks doable for using in a house garage, and it telescopes up. probably cheaper than paying retail for the steel and welding rod.
I considered the HF 1, but I do think I could build a lot cheaper. my supplier gets about $30/ 8' section of 2x3 and, I have more 7014 welding rod than I know what to do with. Even building a complete A frame with 4 8' posts, I think I'll come in under $300.. if I build it like a T and cross brace it on the feet, I could do it a little cheaper
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Old 04-27-2011, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Just as a suggestion - don't over think this. The engine went in with a case strength chain wrapped around the house I-beam and a 2T chainfall and in a less then 7 foot clearance in my basement garage. As the span was a bit more then I preferred, I used a couple of the long construction jacks I own, but could have used common lolly columns or even a couple 2x4's screwed together and wedged in place. The body (even the heavy four door I started with before the roadster) was on and off several times in the same area using a beam connected to the I-beam and made from two 2x6x10 foot long screwed together. Then the final assembly was done in my normal 2 car garage with a 9 foot ceiling. I spread the weight over several floor joists with a couple lengths of 4"x4"x4', dropped a chain down then used two 2T chain falls. That upper floor is well supported by lolly columns and a beam. Unfortunately, I don't have many photos of this operation, but this below is the body, suspended from the two 2T chain falls. As far as my cost - probably less then $25 as most of what I used, I already had



Even a 460 wouldn't "kill" my arrangement or me

Dave W
Nice setup. I don't have access to the rafters tho.. There are a couple ropes tied into some beams for lifting, but all in the wrong spots
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