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Hood roll protection

2K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  baddbob 
#1 ·
I'm about to SPI epoxy my hood sides but have a question or several that I need some expert advice for:

This is a steel Rootlieb hood (picture) and is a replica of the original Ford. This means that there are rolled edges that have hidden surfaces. I really can't properly surface prep down that 30+ inch length with my 80 grit paper which means that most auto paints wont stick which means I will forever have rust drooling out of it every time it gets wet :( . This brings up my questions:

1 - How can I surface prep this area? Or isn't it necessary?
2 - What kind of paint can I use? (POR-15 will peel)
3 - How can I apply it?

Dave :sweat:

Sorry about the picture quality - too much coffee - shakes :eek:
 

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#3 ·
In a nutshell that is basically what I did also. After the hood pieces were finish painted I used a Q-tip to apply some paint to the inside of the hinge. You will find however that there is very little room for paint inside that hinge when you try to insert the rod.

In addition I substituted SS 1/4" tubing for the mild steel hinge rod and used a polished SS center hinge.

Vince
 
#4 ·
shine said:
clean it like a gun barrel. get it as clean and scratched up as you can, then mix some reduced epoxy and pour it thru it. let it cure for a few days then start your prep.

Shine and Vince
You both come thru!! Again!! :D
Thanks - tho I had best get a new .22 barrel brush - mine has too much crap on it.

I already have the SS rods and a '32 SS hinge - but need to get some more Q-Tips - the good ones.

Dave
 
#5 ·
Wow, I have painted a bunch of these hoods and never even thought about this. I put some WD-40 or similar on the rod as it is inserted and that is it. I have to say, those rods usually fit pretty tight, if it had a coat of epoxy inside I would bet you would have a hell of a time installing it. PLUS, it would probably peel a bunch off anyway!

If anything, something like a super thin etch primer similar to "Vinyl wash" from S-W which is a very thin etch with PVC in it. But Honestly, I don't think Ford had anything there, I don't remember seeing rust coming out of anywhere on cars I have done.

Brian
 
#7 · (Edited)
MARTINSR said:
Wow, I have painted a bunch of these But Honestly, I don't think Ford had anything there, I don't remember seeing rust coming out of anywhere on cars I have done.
Brian
Brian,
I can assure you that Ford used a lot better steel then the ver-r-r-r-y soft draw quality steel most of the after market folks use. These hood sides are brand new, special for me Rooleib's and had a good coating of rust on them from their last weeks trip from CA to NY.

As a note, the lower roll is .17 cal and the hood rod rolls are .25 cal. Outers @ Wally World - new, small dia. gun cleaning rod, $3.67, wire brushes, $1.67 ea. :D

Dave
 
#9 ·
It is true that the rods and the center pieces fit so tight that most if not all the paint will be scraped off in order to get the pieces to fit together. I actually had to use a rubber mallet to drive the 1/4" rods in. My hope is the substitution of SS rods will cut down on the rust forming. Just keep the joints well lubricated and hope for the best.

Vince
 
#10 ·
Irelands child said:
Bart,
You should have a rod on each side and a SS strip in the middle. CS rods are supplied and the SS rods were $20 additional, at least for my hood.
Dave
Yea, I bought the SS rods also and when I got them I realized they were just 1/4" SS tubing which I had access to at work :mad: .

Car is looking good Steve :thumbup:

Vince
 
#15 ·
Irelands child said:
Did you get tubing? Mine are solid round bar stock that probably cost 2x as much as Metal Supermarket matl, but....
Yep that is what I got, plain old 1/4" SS tubing. I ordered it from Bob Drake.

Steve AKA Bart, be advised that the front fender/headlight braces are left and right. I had to look at a buddies original 34 to figure it out.

Vince
 
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