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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 01-27-2007, 08:28 PM
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Im going to run 50 ft of air line from compressor to dryer and then have another 25-50 line hooked up to whichever tool. That would work?
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Old 01-27-2007, 09:06 PM
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Not very well but it would be better than nothing. The important thing here would be to make sure the line from the tank to the separator does not have any low spots where water can collect. Run the line up and away from the tank keeping it straight with no dips and then run it down to where you are going to hook up the separator, again make sure there are no points ANYWHERE that water can sit in the line without draining back to the tank or the separator. If you allow a low spot in the line then water may collect there and if it reaches the point that it starts to restrict the air flow it will be picked up and expelled in a surge. After the line has purged the water it will start to collect again and the cycle will start all over again. When this happens everything may seem fine for a while and then without warning you may get a surge of water, not just a few drops.
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 02-09-2007, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willys36@aol.com
Go with 3/4". Friction losses can be high using small lines w/ high volume tools and spray guns. The clear plastic stuff is junk. Don't use it for low pressure air or water let alone high pressure. Buy the good stuff.

We use 3/8 at work and I havent had any problems personally
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Old 02-09-2007, 10:18 PM
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the1fordirt

make sure you have a pressure release valve incase motor dosn't stop and pvc works great for lines and it is cheap
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Old 02-10-2007, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitmaks
I need to know how I should go about hooking up air line to compressor. My compressor just has a threaded hole on side of it. I think Ill just get a short tube to water trap/filter and then just plug rubber hose right into that. I do not need fancy metal piping all over garage. Here's my compressor
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...HFV&lpage=none
I think you just saw this on my Garage Air post...but here's some details that might help you...

I just got done installing my new (used) Devilbiss 5hp, I did get some of the clear flex hose 250psi for the connection from the compressor to the wall line...I might want to upgrade the flex hose but you really need a cut-off valve their if the flex hose breaks or there are any problems down the rest of the line.

You have to add something more than a filter to cool the air - which forces condensation and the ability of the traps and filters to do their job.

I spent about 130.00 for 3/4 Schedule L copper pipe, fittings, (and a 40.00 HF air filter/regulator) and a couple of hours to design and build it out.

I also don't need fancy piping in my shop...at 22x40 1 - 50ft auto-reel 3/8 air hose is perfect (Lowes)

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Old 02-10-2007, 08:23 AM
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1Ford, We have just been discussing this in another thread and at length several times in the recent past, PVC does NOT work great and is in fact about the worst thing you can use. First off it is VERY dangerous because it will rupture easily sending razor sharp shards of plastic flying in all directions and there have been so many injuries from this that it has been banned from use for gas transport, including air, by both OSHA and IMSHA. The pressure rating on that stuff does not mean it is safe because it changes easily with only minor temperature changes and age (it does not take long) plus it only takes a relativity light blow from a hard object, sharp or blunt, to cause a break. When PVC pipe breaks, and it does so easily, it does not simply break or spring a leak but rather it shatters along the length of the pipe and sends that razor sharp shrapnel into anything close by including people! If that were not enough then consider that it is about the worst choice you could make for moisture control because it will insulate the air and does a VERY poor job of sinking off the heat leading to water in the lines. Under high flow, such as painting, the air temperature 50' from the compressor will still be so high that it will contain a great deal more water vapor than it would if it had passed through the same length of metal pipe. Water vapor must be condensed to be effectively removed by the separator so what happens here is that it will pass through the separator and exit your air hose as water droplets. Pointing at systems that have used PVC for several years without incident does not mean it is safe because some systems were not so lucky and your luck could run out at any time. PVC is a big loser any way you look at it and it can get you hurt, IT DOES HAPPEN! If you have PVC you really should scrap that junk and put in a safe system before an accident happens because I think you would be shocked at how much damage a bursting PVC pipe can do and it happens all too easily.

Last edited by oldred; 02-10-2007 at 02:23 PM.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2007, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the1fordirt
make sure you have a pressure release valve incase motor dosn't stop and pvc works great for lines and it is cheap
naw you do not need a pressure relief valve the PVC line will do double duty ....... supply air and burst to relieve the pressure. do'nt wast your $$ for a relief valve
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Old 02-10-2007, 08:32 AM
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"PVC will do double duty-supply air and burst to relieve the pressure"

LMAO
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2007, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
"PVC will do double duty-supply air and burst to relieve the pressure"

LMAO
Yeah , your blood pressure
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