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Assuming that you have a three wire tach . Really not enough information here but I'll guess : Red wire ignition , black wire ground and whatever the other is ( white , blue , yelow ) goes to the distributor side of the coil . Not really sure if that is what you were asking but I gave it a shot .
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thanks for the quick replies , it is a 1966 318 and it is a 5 wire tach but i was just need to hook it up in the engine compartment too tune my new holley and to see if i have a vacuum leak. I have to hook it up from the engine compartment cause i dont have the key for it. i just got it about 2 weeks ago from a tow yard
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Hooking the main 12v+ tach wire and the "ignition on" 12v+ tach wire to the same switch, or straight to the battery 12v+ post will allow it to work. Just remember to unhook it when not in use, don't leave it hooked straight to the battery for an extended period of time.
When you say 5-wire tach, what are the five wires meant to be hooked to?? I only know of 4 and 3-wire designs, unless it has a multiple shift point feature like some of the Autometers do. |
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Thank you for the info but well this work with out being able to actrually turn the key on im just putting a screwdriver on it to start it
blue is illumination ground, connect to common ground red +12 volt power, connect to fuse green ignition black tach ground white 12+ volt illumination connect to light switch |
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Having the actual key means nothing if you are turning the switch with a screwdriver, the tach don't care.
To make it read rpm all you need to actually hook up are the red 12v+ connected to battery, black to ground, and green to coil -. The blue and the white just run the light bulb in the tach for night illumination. |
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To make it read rpm all you need to actually hook up are the red 12v+ connected to battery, black to ground, and green to coil -. The blue and the white just run the light bulb in the tach for night illumination. |
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To make the engine run, I don't know if jumping the voltage regulator will provide power to the distributor/coil/ignition box of what you are working on. I'm not familiar with old Chrysler products, last one I had was a '73 Duster, my first car(I didn't pick it out) and I was glad to be rid of it for a '70 Chevelle. |
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My "almighty mopar" had the "leaning tower of power" under the hood, and an unsyncronized 1st gear "3 on the tree" and was slower than molasses in January. Would have required an entire driveline swap to be anything decent, had the tiny bolt pattern wheels too. Not exactly something I was impressed with, the electrical system was nothing but problems.
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MOPAR's are fine, generally speaking. However, I do not genuflect every time I see one. And they're not immune from problems, by any means. |
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If you want the engine to start, run a jumper from the "+" side of the coil top the battery positive terminal. Then jump the starter to turn the engine over.
Don't run it long w/o having a ballast resistor in the line or the coil may overheat. |
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okay i realize this is a interesting chevy lover's site
but i am of course a die hard mopar fan and will always be one but you chevy people are the ignorant ones not us. mostly because you dont realize that mopar was the first to nearly d everything you no Henry ford oh what was that the dodge brothers helped him. And also what about blowers for cars who started using them and also real mans car that actually goes fast like maybe a drag car i ah dont see them using the "famous sbc" no they use hemi's. and to make chevy even worse is the fact that they stole the most popular engine the piece of 350 from mopar yah why dont you look that up hmmm..... and it almost seems that the mopar one was alot better with dual quads and all, but no way that mopar could of done that no its general motors aka general electric a motor is an electric motor shocked i no...
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