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-   -   hopefully last of my paint questions... (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/hopefully-last-my-paint-questions-224654.html)

cutthroatkid 10-03-2012 10:57 PM

hopefully last of my paint questions...
 
Ok I have a couple of questions....first I know I should follow instructions 100% but lets say the paint is still to thick when reducing what is a way to know that it is reduced to where it should be?My pop told me something years ago about the way it should drip off of the mixing stick...?
Also how do I know if I'm going to slow?I got a lot of orange peel today on some test panels I think its from going to slow,I've noticed going slower seems to give it that nice glossy wet look but gets runs should I just keep trying to go slower till I find my happy medium&wet sand runs?thanks.

jcclark 10-04-2012 05:11 AM

How much it's reduced (viscosity) and the tip size
are equally important. If it's to thick then you need a bigger tip.
Or you need to reduce it more.
Once you have it right you can measure the viscosity with a
viscosity cup that most paint stores sells and always reproduce
the mix. Some paints spec viscosity but mixing to the instructions
is a much safer approach. If you do that and it's still to thick
you probably need a bigger tip.

I know if I remove the air supply to my gravity gun and pull the trigger
the paint should flow out in a steady stream, that's a "quick and dirty"
verification test for me.

cutthroatkid 10-04-2012 10:59 PM

Good advice I like the quick&dirty test. It was a nason ss white,started off with 1.4 tip then 1.5 still too thick to shoot,mixed as it says too

tech69 10-05-2012 09:07 AM

In most cases you will not have to use a zahn cup/ viscosity cup but I've had a situation where a toner was drying up on me, and it was a toner that seemed to dry faster than the others, even when covered fully all the time. So I ignored it and mixed away and it threw off the formula. In hindsight, I should have used a viscosity cup for that particular toner and it would have been a closer match.

John long 10-05-2012 03:19 PM

I have an unused viscosity cup hanging on a peg but I can not remember when I have seen a paint mfr publish recommended viscosity for a paint. Do some of them still do that?

John L

cutthroatkid 10-05-2012 03:26 PM

Im ordering another paint,Ive been reducing everytime I shoot...so I shouldnt of been doing that...I feel really dumb now

John long 10-05-2012 03:38 PM

I am not sure I understand what it is you are saying. You started out stating your paint was too thick but now say you have reduced too much. Can you explained a little more?

John L

cutthroatkid 10-05-2012 03:51 PM

Yes sorry my adhd has me allover the place.Ok so this praticular paint is extremly thick comapred to all of the others I have sprayed so my question was as in the first post&after the replies&me digging around the net Ive came to the understanding that I should almost never reduce. yet I have been reducing every time I paint

John long 10-05-2012 03:59 PM

I think you have misunderstood something or someone. I do not use Nason but to the best of my knowledge Nason ALWAYS requires reduction. It is the economic line of DuPont. I have a friend who shoots it regularly and one of the things he has said repeatedly is it tends to require more coats than other brands after reduction but he is a big fan of it.

Hopefully someone will jump in here who uses Nason and can offer you more than an opinion.

John L

MARTINSR 10-05-2012 04:05 PM

I have to say, if the paint is not damaged in some way like it has dried out, the lid was left off or something like that there is no reason to do anything different than what is on the tech sheet. If you reduced it, added hardener or what ever as the tech sheet says, it WORKS. Now, you also have to have the proper gun as the tech sheet says, with the tip that the tech sheet says, it WORKS.

Let me put it this way, at the tech school where they teach painters from shops how to use their product, they mix it exactly as it says on the tech sheet. If a paint rep or tech rep goes into a shop to paint something as a demo they mix it exactly as the tech sheet says, and you guessed it, it WORKS.

If you are having problems with how it sprays there is something with your gun, gun set up or air supply that is doing it, not the paint.

Can you sometimes make up for the wrong gun, tip or air supply by over reducing, sure, but you are then entering the world where experience is the tool, and without it you can make some big mistakes.

Brian

MARTINSR 10-05-2012 04:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John long (Post 1596384)
I think you have misunderstood something or someone. I do not use Nason but to the best of my knowledge Nason ALWAYS requires reduction. It is the economic line of DuPont. I have a friend who shoots it regularly and one of the things he has said repeatedly is it tends to require more coats than other brands after reduction but he is a big fan of it.

Hopefully someone will jump in here who uses Nason and can offer you more than an opinion.

John L

There are a number of lines and one may actually have like the old Imron where you simply add hardener 3:1 and paint, no reduction.

Brian

milo 10-05-2012 06:20 PM

It's a tough one to put into words...


novafreek6872 10-05-2012 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by milo (Post 1596421)
It's a tough one to put into words...



Great vid, man. Enjoyed it !! :thumbup:


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