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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2013, 11:36 AM
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What cam is in the motor, roller? Wonder if it has a retainer plate or cam button, retainer could have come loose or button/no button issue that's allowing the cam to walk forward and hit the cover inside?

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Old 12-02-2013, 11:39 AM
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it is a hydraulic flat tappet cam.. or at least the lifters are hydraulic lifters. I just tried cranking it over again to see if i could provide a better description of the sound. it wasn't so much a grind as a screech/ high pitched squeal kinda noise today. it is turning over fine, but still will not fire. gas is coming thru the carb as it should, i just replaced the module in the hei so i know i have spark.. idk. i will try to get the video on here so you guys can hear it.
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Old 12-02-2013, 11:52 AM
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engine squeal/screech on start up - YouTube

i couldnt get the video to upload on here so i put it on youtube. the link is above. the sound quality is pretty good but sounds more high pitched in person. this isn't what is was doing the other day.. it was much worse.. but still wil lnot fire.
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clwhoops44 View Post
engine squeal/screech on start up - YouTube

i couldnt get the video to upload on here so i put it on youtube. the link is above. the sound quality is pretty good but sounds more high pitched in person. this isn't what is was doing the other day.. it was much worse.. but still wil lnot fire.
It doesn't sound like it has much compression. That could be the reason for the no-start. I would start by checking the valve train.
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:14 PM
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s10

im not very experienced if you couldnt already tell lol.. what do you mean by "doesnt sound like it has much compression" exactly? what should i check in the valve train.. like make sure i adjusted the valves correctly?
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Old 12-02-2013, 12:19 PM
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to tell a little more about the motor.. standard deck height 350 bored .030 over.. 4v relief flat top pistons and steel shim gaskets i believe .018. 64 cc dart iron eagles ccd closer to 68-69cc. i believe i should be around 10:1 compression.
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Old 12-02-2013, 03:02 PM
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You said you know it's got spark, but do you have spark to the plugs? Pull one and ground it to the head, see if spark jumps the gap.

Fact is, it you have spark to the plug, plug isn't fouled, even a little, and there's fuel going into the motor, it should fire! Unless your timing is way off in left field now. I would at least confirm TDC on the compression stroke and rotor pointing near #1 plug wire tower. Do the thumb over the plug hole thing until you feel pressure pushing back, then tap it to he TDC mark on the damper. That won't explain the noise, but will confirm it's in a start position.
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Old 12-02-2013, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clwhoops44 View Post
s10

im not very experienced if you couldnt already tell lol.. what do you mean by "doesnt sound like it has much compression" exactly? what should i check in the valve train.. like make sure i adjusted the valves correctly?
In the video, it just didn't sound like it had much compression during cranking especially for a 10+ point compression ratio but without being there, it's really hard to tell, it may be fine.
If the rocker arms are too tight, it will turn over very easily and have little or no compression.
I was thinking about this in your previous post about a "popping" sound when you tightened it back down. Another thing to check here is the vertical play in the dizzy. It should have some up/down movement when clamped down. If not, you need to shim the dizzy.
It would be very helpful if we knew what area the noise is coming from (front, back, right side, left side, top, bottom) so we could be of more help.
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Old 12-02-2013, 08:19 PM
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I was wondering if you checked piston to valve clearance when you installed the new heads if the valves just touched the pistons it could have bent the valves slightly with out bending push rods by floating the valves slightly when you stomped on it you could do a leak down test to see if it leaking and where or compression test to see what the cylinder pressure is.
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Old 12-02-2013, 08:35 PM
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put a timing light on the engine while cranking,make sure the light fires on all the wires.Make sure the carb is shooting gas when linkage is activated?check float level if its a Holley.
if you have fuel and air entering the engine and you have spark? and compression? then the fuel will burn and something will happen,,,
I could not here the squeal in the video
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Old 12-03-2013, 02:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clwhoops44 View Post
nova,

I pulled the distributor out and inspected the gear and the drive slot everything looked good. I used a long screwdriver to turn the pump drive shaft back a hair and the distributor dropped in perfect first try. Sat perfectly flush with the block. I haven't had a chance to try any of the suggestions from yesterday.. gotta wait til im off work thursday.
Did u check the voltage on the power wire running to the distributor? And did u check to make sure it has power with key on and while cranking? Maybe check those two before you really tear into it. You will get it fixed in no time!
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Old 12-03-2013, 01:07 PM
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vinnie,

i had a holley on it when i first ran it.. but i have a whole other problem with that carb. fuel was constantly dripping from the secondaries and was leaking out of the carb onto the intake opposite side of the throttle linkage.. like near the choke. so i strapped on the edelbog i had on my truck for now.

OAE,

i did not check ptov clearance but its a mild cam and the head hasnt been shaved.. 1.52 rockers.. i didnt imagine id have a problem esp since the flat top pistons are the rebuilders which are just 1.54 compression height. i will check all of that if i have to pull the intake.

thursday i will check all of your guys suggestions and let you know what i find. i really appreciate the input from everyone. im trying to learn as i go, and i have learned a lot from where i was just a couple years ago from guys like you on these forums.
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Old 12-03-2013, 07:47 PM
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Clwhoops, Before you take anything apart if you have access to a air compressor I would do a leak down check on all cylinders if you don't know how there's plenty of videos on youtube the actual tester you can get from harbor fright for an inexpensive one it will confirm that the engine is sealed rings, valves, head gaskets. If its leaks it will let you know where so youll have an idea how far you'll have to get in to it. If this isn't an option then atleast do an compression test and look for pressures that are consistent. You want to make sure that you that you have something other than a money pit. In your video it sounded like the starter needs shiming if I didn't miss the sound your talking about. As far as starting or not in this case pull the #1 plug put your finger in the hole and bump it over till the pressure pushs past your finger then line up timing marks pop off the distributer cap and confirm that rotor is in the correct location, not 180 out. If it has fuel, spark, compression and timing it will run. I hope this rant is of help to you.
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Old 12-04-2013, 07:22 PM
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I would start at the beginning...

First of all, do a compression test to verify that you've still got appropriate pressure building in the cylinders. The backfires/popping on your first drive might have caused the timing chain to jump a tooth. If that happened, you won't get it to run until you replace the timing set.

If compression is good in all cylinders, re-verify the ignition timing. Sounds like you've done it correctly, but make absolutely certain you have #1 cylinder at TDC when you install the distributor pointing at the #1 terminal on the cap.

Then, verify that you have GOOD spark at EVERY plug and the plugs are clean, dry & properly gapped.

Then, verify that you have fuel (not too much, either).

Until you verify all four are present and accounted for (compression, timing, spark & fuel), you're just guessing.
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Old 12-05-2013, 01:28 PM
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well thanks to all of your guys suggestions i got her fired up and took it for a lap around town. no popping or backfiring and runs a hell of a lot better than she did the first time. the sound it makes when cranking still makes me a little uneasy but theres not any strange noises once its running. it started raining on me today so i had to call it quits before i could play with the timing but i think i need to advance it a hair more.

compression was between 150-160 psi on all cylinders and i changed the fuel filter to a clear view unit so i could see what was going into my carb. i put new spark plugs in and it fired right up. i still need to grab a vac gauge to help tune it and a fuel pressure gauge. i put in a new oil pressure gauge as well and was running about 60 psi.

Bottom line, she runs, she rolls, and she stops. Everything left is just ironing out the wrinkles. THanks guys!!!
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