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  #151 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 06:29 PM
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About the dyno

Call some collages close to you that have an auto department (some have rear wheel dynos and will dyno your car free! We have one here we all go to ! Community collages dont charge its class time! State collages dont charge either!


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  #152 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2011, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abigassbowtie
I am new to this site I am building a sbc 409 (.040 over 400) Im kinda new to the engine building I would love to put it on a dyno but just cant justify spending 400 on somebody else tuning my motor and knowing how much horsepower it makes anyway this is what I got and please bare with me I dont know all my part numbers

holley street avenger (670?)
ported edelbrock performer rpm heads stock valves 64cc chambers
holley strip dominator intake
speed pro forged pistons -4cc dish = 11-1 cr
solid roller comp xr 292
in a 509 400 block
stock polished and shot peened rods (5.7)
stock crank

anyway what do you think for hp and torque I know some of you guys are real good at this and I know everyone thinks that theyr motor makes way more than it does so dont hold back
To answer your original question, it really depends on alot of things, what are your piston rated as far as compression? What kind of exhaust will be on it? What kind of lift does your cam actually have? How good of a port job was done on your heads?

I think the easiest thing for you to do is download a desktop dyno and enter in what you got as accurately as you can and you can get a good ball park idea from that. I torrented one myself and had it installed in about 5 min. Useful tool to have.
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  #153 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2011, 06:54 PM
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well i havent got the dipstick out yet cause im impatient but i did get my new tires on (mickey thompson drag radials in a 315-60-15) and i couldnt wait to drive it to see what the tires were like and HOLY hell they hook up amazing I had no idea what kind of difference they would make and they by far surpassed my expectations.

I cant do a full throttle launch with out spinning but if i launch around 2500 and stab it soon after it hooks and hauls ***. by far the fastest its ran and the fastest thing i have ever drove. I get the shakes for about a half hour after driving it

Now its time to get that pesky dipstick tube out

Last edited by abigassbowtie; 03-19-2011 at 07:00 PM.
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  #154 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2011, 07:38 PM
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Get it on a prepped track and it should dead hook as hard as you want to hit it.

Won't be much of any tire that will dead hook on the street, not even slicks. The road surface just isn't good enough, no where near as good as a drag strip with rubber laid down.
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Old 03-19-2011, 08:18 PM
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yeah im excited
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  #156 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2011, 02:16 PM
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so this is off topic but i got a set of pistons given to me that are sterlings i believe. they are part number h635p but one of them is broken I dont have any use for these but they are useless without having all 8 of them. why can i not find another one for? sale did sealed power buy out sterling caues i found the part number but it was under that name ?
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  #157 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2011, 02:24 PM
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Sterling was owned by Federal Mogul, I used a set of hypers around 1993 that were boxed as Federal Mogul/Sterling. I have no idea if the Sterling line still exists.
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  #158 (permalink)  
Old 03-23-2011, 05:02 PM
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screw it ill give them to my dad to melt down into something
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  #159 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2011, 10:13 AM
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so my machinist said to just use a piece of brake hard line for the piece that goes into the block for the lower tube on the dipstick so my question is... if the hard line fits into the block the the dip stick isnt gonna fit in the hard line ! *** ? is my machinist an idiot?

i gotta get this p.o.s. fixed races open on the 8th
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  #160 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2011, 03:35 PM
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well i figured out the dip stick it slides down into the block a little ways I thought it sat flush so that problem is fixed!

now just for fun i put a vacuum gauge on my motor at the back of the carb where the power brake line hooks up and my gauge reads about 9 pounds of vacuum does that sound about right or do you think a might have a vacuum leak somewhere
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  #161 (permalink)  
Old 04-01-2011, 04:04 PM
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Sounds about right for a cam of that size, its not going to make a ton of vacuum like a stock cam or street performance cam will.

The tube needed for the dipstick guide is a piece of 5/16" fuel/brake line, about 6-1/2" ling. Buy a 12" stick, cut it at 6-1/2"and keep the flare at one end, discard both nuts, and drop into the dipstick hole flared end up. Then install the upper dipstick tub as you normally would.
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  #162 (permalink)  
Old 04-04-2011, 11:53 AM
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I ran into a guy that i have known for a few years and he has offered to help me get my truck tuned and ready for this weekend (first race of the year). Last night i went to his house and in less than 20 minutes it was running better than it has . Im going back over there today he said he has more stuff he wants to do. Im excited to have somebody that knows what they are doing helping me hands on.

Ill let ya know how it does this weekend

really would be cool to run low low 12.s
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  #163 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2011, 11:45 PM
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well races are cancelled for tomorow due to weather so not till next week

Eric i got another question for ya im looking at some heads and wanted an opinion on these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-C...Q5fAccessories

if their flow numbers are true then they look to be a decent head for my motor and the price what do you think ???
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  #164 (permalink)  
Old 04-07-2011, 11:55 PM
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i just punched in the flow numbers to the comp cams desktop dyno program i got and it lost power over the eddy heads i got so.... still curious to hear your opinion!
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  #165 (permalink)  
Old 04-08-2011, 12:12 AM
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I've used the ProComp head before. I prefer to buy them bare and them buy the parts to assemble them from Competition Products so that I know exactly the quality of the components used. They will need a bit of hand port work, especially the exhaust side as those #'s are rather low.

I have bought other stuff from Skip without a problem, just never heads, so I don't know how good of parts he uses to assemble them, but he claims they are good pieces. At that price and from looking at the ad, you are going to have to pay a bit more for an valve and spring upgrade, as the valvetrain parts won't be correct for your solid roller cam.

This is the straight plug CNC'd chamber solid roller set up - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-C...item56425ff711 Price reflects the better parts needed for solid rollers.

You may be farther ahead $$$-wise to buy the bare castings, then valves from Competition Products, and move the springs/retainers that match your cam from your current Edelbrock heads to these new castings.

Or this set from White with .710" lift hydro roller springs and just swap springs/retainers with your Edelbrock set...leaves you able to sell the complete Edelbrocks or use them on something else - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-C...item4cf4e44d5e

Last edited by ericnova72; 04-08-2011 at 12:20 AM.
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