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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 06:35 PM
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what class would be best for me to try and race i know i dont have enough time this year but is there a 12.50 class and what all requirements am i gonna have with hitting the 12s

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 09:03 PM
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Most special requirements like roll bar, seat belt harness, SFI approved harmonic balancer, transmission shield/blanket, SFI approved flex plate, etc all start at either 11.49 or 10.99. You don't need anything beyond helmet at 12.50. You will need a driveshaft loop within 4" of front driveshaft yoke, at any speed fast or slow, if you want to run slicks, ET streets, Drag Radials. By the rules you should have had to have them with MT Sportsmans or Indy Profiles, but a lot of places overlook it.
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 08-29-2010, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
Most special requirements like roll bar, seat belt harness, SFI approved harmonic balancer, transmission shield/blanket, SFI approved flex plate, etc all start at either 11.49 or 10.99. You don't need anything beyond helmet at 12.50. You will need a driveshaft loop within 4" of front driveshaft yoke, at any speed fast or slow, if you want to run slicks, ET streets, Drag Radials. By the rules you should have had to have them with MT Sportsmans or Indy Profiles, but a lot of places overlook it.
Here's the rule.
"In place of a crossmember in the vicinity of the front universal joint, all cars in competition using open driveshafts must have a retainer loop 360 degrees of enclosure, 1/4 inch minimum thickness and 2 inches wide or 7/8" by 0.065 inch welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6 inches of the front universal joint for support of the driveshaft in event of u-joint failure. Driveshaft loop required on all cars running 13.99 (8.59 in the 1/8 mile) or quicker and utilizing slicks; except vehicles running 11.50 (7.35 in the 1/8 mile) seconds or slower equipped with street tires."

Street tires, to us in tech, means DOT rated tires. If it has a DOT rating on the sidewall, then it's a street tire and the vehicle will not need a loop until 11.49 seconds. No DOT rating means it is a specialty racing tire and the vehicle needs a loop at 13.99 seconds.

The vehicle will not need a loop at all regardless of tires or E.T. if it has a crossmember in the vicinity of the front universal joint, although there are ramifications to that part of the rule as well. When u-joints break, the driveshaft does not always fall down to the track surface. Sometimes it augers up through the floorboards of the vehicle to attack the driver. This has happened in the past and can get ugly in a hurry.

Standard OEM safety equipment built into the vehicle and a (either SFI or Snell rated) helmet will allow you to go as quick as 11.50 seconds in the 1/4 mile.

I think that most all tracks have special rules that they put into place over and above the NHRA Rulebook, so you will want to ask the senior technical inspector at your track for a list of them.
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Old 08-29-2010, 11:49 PM
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sweet Im good for a long while i think! I will get a driveline loop in it before I go back out again and I will wear a helmet !

is a dot helmet "legal"

and what about wheel studs with slicks I heard something about the wheel studs having to be so long past the lug nut????
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  #80 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2010, 03:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abigassbowtie
sweet Im good for a long while i think! I will get a driveline loop in it before I go back out again and I will wear a helmet !
is a dot helmet "legal"
and what about wheel studs with slicks I heard something about the wheel studs having to be so long past the lug nut????
DOT means nothing where helmets are concerned. The tech inspector will pull back the cushioning material to look for a Snell Foundation or an SFI label on the insulation foam of the helmet. It would be nice if you knew where the tag is and could tell or show the inspector to prevent him taking your time and the time of the other racers having to look for the label. He will want to know the manufacturer of the helmet also, so if you were to say, for instance, "I wear a Simpson, here's the tag", you will have answered two of his questions right away. The more you seem like a nice guy to the tech inspector, the better your relations in technical inspection will be. It's just human nature, you're nice to people who are nice to you.
I have a '98 Rulebook on my desk, so there may be a couple of additions, but here is a list of approved helmets....
Snell 2000 (M2000, SA2000) valid until 1/1/2012
Snell 2005 (M2005, SA2005) valid until 1/1/2017
Snell 2007 valid until 1/1/2019
SFI 31.1A valid until 1/1/2014
SFI 31.2A valid until 1/1/2014
SFI 41.1A valid until 1/1/2014
SFI 41.2A valid until 1/1/2014
SFI 31.1/2005 valid until 1/1/2017
SFI 41.1/2005 valid until 1/1/2017

Here's the rule on wheel studs:

"The thread engagement on all wheel studs into the lug nut, or lug bolts into wheel hubs must be equivalent to or greater than the diameter of the stud or bolt. Length of the stud or bolt does not determine permissibility. (Example: A 7/16 inch stud must be thoroughly engaged through the threads into the hex portion of the lug or bolt a minimum of 7/16 inch.)"

The verbage of the rule sometimes puts youngsters off a little. What is says is that if your wheel studs are 7/16 inch in diameter, then they must be threaded no less than 7/16 inch into the hex, or six-sided portion of the lug nut. If your wheel studs were 1/2 inch, then the rule would want the stud to thread a minimum of 1/2 inch into the six-sided hex portion of the lug nut. There are some blind wheel nuts that are not even threaded at all in the hex portion of the nut. Best possible plan is to install the proper length of stud with the wheels you will drag race on, making sure that you have enough stud sticking out past the surface of the wheel to engage the stud/nut by its diameter in the six-sided, hex portion of the nut. Then choose open ended nuts so the end of the stud can be seen easily by the tech inspector and life will be more simple.

Last edited by techinspector1; 08-30-2010 at 04:06 AM.
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  #81 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2010, 06:23 AM
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Just a quick heads-up on the drive shaft loop: They say 360 enclosure. That isn't a "U"-shaped bracket bolted to the bottom of the floor.
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2010, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
Just a quick heads-up on the drive shaft loop: They say 360 enclosure. That isn't a "U"-shaped bracket bolted to the bottom of the floor.
Yep, and we don't care if it's welded to the frame on each side or bolted into the floor with some nice big flatwashers.
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Old 09-10-2010, 12:19 AM
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well i gotta work late tomorrow so no racing, but i got axle flanges turned down on my dana 60 rear end so the rotors will fit over them now just gotta go pick up the donor rear end for the calipers and brackets and it will be ready to go in

Will i get less wheel hop with my axle on top of the springs? cause that is how i am gonna lower it till i get the 4 link built sometime this winter

I have been thinking i should wait on better heads till i get a forged steel crank and some good rods so i will get the rest of the truck set up better and try and get it dialed in a little better
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2010, 01:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Here's the rule.
"In place of a crossmember in the vicinity of the front universal joint, all cars in competition using open driveshafts must have a retainer loop 360 degrees of enclosure, 1/4 inch minimum thickness and 2 inches wide or 7/8" by 0.065 inch welded steel tubing, securely mounted and located within 6 inches of the front universal joint for support of the driveshaft in event of u-joint failure. Driveshaft loop required on all cars running 13.99 (8.59 in the 1/8 mile) or quicker and utilizing slicks; except vehicles running 11.50 (7.35 in the 1/8 mile) seconds or slower equipped with street tires."
.
So if a car has a torque tube with a rear mount tranny it's okay? Since the drive shaft is fully enclosed all the way from the clutch to the tranny. Just curious as I am getting a set of slics this year.
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2010, 02:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landshark928
So if a car has a torque tube with a rear mount tranny it's okay? Since the drive shaft is fully enclosed all the way from the clutch to the tranny. Just curious as I am getting a set of slics this year.
No exposed U-joints, so you should be o.k.
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2010, 10:06 PM
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Horsepower

If it is horsepower that you're after, better use a throttle body spacer for your car. It will help you a lot.
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Old 11-27-2010, 09:48 PM
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so i need some advice on back tires. I have been looking really hard at mt street radials but i have been reading about them and people say they are noticably slower than a drag slick but i think i can run a pretty big tire with my narrowed rear end and tubbed bed i can fit a 14" wide tire with out any concern of rubbing at all and i would like to run a tire between 28 and 30 inches tall and keep in mind i have a 10 wide wheel now my question is with a tire that big would a mickey thompson street radial be noticably slower than a drag slick if it would be slower I would like a recommendation on a good set of rear tires under 500$

thanks in advance guys

i gotta say whenever i get to a point where i dont know what to do or where to go with my project you guys always come through and i appreciate it alot

thanks
jeff
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 11-27-2010, 11:56 PM
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Whoever has been giving you info on MT Drag Radials being "noticably slower" than slicks is misinforming you. As of right now, the fastest doorslammer shootout/Grudge racer/outlaw cars are on Drag Radials, and they have repeatedly beat similar sized slicks this year at every heads up opportunity that I have seen. We are talking high 6 second/low 7 second 1/4 mile times at 200 mph on a 315/65R15 Drag Radial(equal in size to 30x13.5 ET Street, fits on a 10-12" rim). The Drag radial is no slouch, and much nicer to drive on than a true slick of ET Street slick, much more stable on the top end.

Drag Radials are no joke! I'll never go back to a slick as long as MT, Hoosier, or Goodyear keeps making their drag radials.

Just go to YouTube and search "Drag Radials" or "MT Radials", or go search in the videos section of www.yellowbullet.com, which is commonly though of as the top heads-up and outlaw racers site. Guys are going scary fast on little 9" wide 275/60R15 radials, and pulling mile high, half track wheelies.

The 315/60R15 is 30" tall x 13.5" section width x 11" tread width. The 325/50R15 is 28" tall with the same section and tread width as the 315/60. both are great on a 10" rim. We run the 315/60 on a 10" rim on one car, 4100 rpm stall and transbrake w/5.14 gears, works great on a 10 second car, never spins and tracks so straight and smooth your grandma could drive it.

These are not the SR Street Radials, those are no better than an ordinary street tire, they are meant for street rodders, not street/track use..

Last edited by ericnova72; 11-28-2010 at 12:06 AM. Reason: more info
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 11-28-2010, 09:41 AM
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My experience with drag radial is they wear out quickly. Just a few burn-outs and my last set was gone.

While, a fresh set of MT drag tires will last me 10-15 trips to the drag strip and I tend to do about 5 or 6 runs each time I go to the strip. So that is 50 to 90 burn-outs!

So, if you get a set of drag radials, then don't heat them up like you would do a regular drag tire, as they will quickly wear away.
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Old 11-28-2010, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 454C10
My experience with drag radial is they wear out quickly. Just a few burn-outs and my last set was gone.

While, a fresh set of MT drag tires will last me 10-15 trips to the drag strip and I tend to do about 5 or 6 runs each time I go to the strip. So that is 50 to 90 burn-outs!

So, if you get a set of drag radials, then don't heat them up like you would do a regular drag tire, as they will quickly wear away.
We get a full season out of a set, in the vicinity of 200+ passes. They need very little burnout at all, as soon as they show a wisp of smoke, you've done enough, they are ready to go. Basically all you are doing is cleaning off the tire.

Treat them like slicks in the water box and they will dissappear FAST. Pretend you are John Force and you will replace them in a few weeks, plus they get greasy if burnt too long, you boil the compound out.
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