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  #106 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2010, 10:46 PM
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hp estimate

id put it together and pay the 400 for the dyno tune.i doubt at this point you could spend 400 on anything partswise that would pay off better than a perfect tune and cam degree.dyno shops usually have carbs around to do a few pulls with.might be that with that 670 would be perfect for a 400 with the cam advanced for max low rpm torque in a heavy vehicle.keepin the rpms down and durability up.---billy

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  #107 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2010, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abigassbowtie
just out of curiuosity does that also make it to where you can down shift at any speed also ???
Yes, it will downshift at any speed after that mod is done.
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  #108 (permalink)  
Old 12-04-2010, 11:26 PM
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I got my rear end in all i got left on the rear end is u-bolts to hold the driveline in at the rear end heres some pics and specs

its a dana 60 out of a 68 chevy c-20

narrowed to 57" wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface I used for 9" shafts had them shortened and resplined to 30 spline to fit the 60 carrier and and had them redrill the flanges to chevy 5 on 5 lug pattern then welded on billet 9" late model large bearing ends

4.10 gears rebuilt power lock with 1 extra clutch

disk brakes consist of chevy 1/2 ton 4x4 backing plates cut down to fit properly welded on and used matching calipers then used 95 caprice rotors since they are correct lug pattern





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  #109 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2010, 12:26 AM
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Nice choice on the 60 , I've done the Ford Big Bearing ends on a 60 for several folks now, comes out a lot cheaper than a full tilt 9" and is a bunch tougher than the 9". Only thing I've done different is 35 spline axles because we were buying new from Moser, so might as well go big and never worry about them.

BULLETPROOF!!
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  #110 (permalink)  
Old 12-05-2010, 10:23 AM
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I think im only into this rear end 300$ and i have the 35 spline side gears for the 60 power lock in case i have any issues i will have custom shafts built I think i may narrow it more when i get the back of it 4 linked and do the 35 spline shafts at that time
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:34 PM
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got some pics for ya guys that care

its about 3" drop in the front and 5" in the back





it looks just how i wanted it to maybe another inch lower in the front
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:20 PM
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after looking at the pictures it looks like my rear end moved forward 1-2 inches wich should help traction and it acts like it hooks up better im curious if the power lock makes a difference in traction cause it acts like it hooks quite a bit better

on a side note i have adjusted the valves 3 times and still hear what i thought was valve train noise and almost pulled the motor today to check rods and mains but before i did that i took it to the machine shop that originally put my bottom end together and had him listen to it and he says its just common valve train noise from solid roller cam and roller rockers does this sound correct its not really loud but i can hear it and it drives me nuts i put a quart of lucas in it and that didnt help

then i asked about my blow by and he says its steam and could be leaking from a crack in the block near the steam holes or a gasket or something kinda bummed out about that if im gonna check each plug and look for one thats extra clean and find out what cylinder it is from there i dont know what to do run it and let it develop i guess
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:22 PM
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It will hook better with the springs under the axle, and the addition of both tires actually trying to move you forward instead of a one wheel peel.

Solid lifters(roller or flat tappet) and roller rockers will sound kind of like a loud sewing machine, some of us power junkies refer to it as a "mechanical purr", the sweet sound of a solid lifter valvetrain. It is never going to be quiet like a hydraulic valvetrain is if that is what you are looking for. You just need to get used to the sweet sound of power . Cast aluminum valvecovers will dampen the sound some, compared to stamped steel

You're going to get steam from the crankcase every time you fire it up(more so in a cool climate). After each time the engine is run, as it cools off it draws condensation, which is then steamed off and driven out the breather or pulled into the intake and burned off by way of a PCV valve the next time the engine is run. Don't worry unless the radiator level is dropping or the oil is showing up foamy milky on the dipstick. Check the plugs like you mentioned to be sure but don't get too worried yet.

Looks good sitting down low and I agree another inch down in the front would improve it more, it shows too much space in the wheelwell around the front tire still IMO. .
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  #114 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2010, 04:42 PM
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man you always have something to say that makes me feel alot better it doesnt get run alot by any means at the most once every three weeks it gets started in the garage so it could have alot of moisture to be blowing off
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Old 12-18-2010, 01:14 AM
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well i got a core turbo 400 from my brother inlaw and pulled it apart it came out of his jeep that got sunk in a mud hole i was under the impression it got lots of water in it but apparently it just burnt the clutches cause there wasnt hardly any water in the trans but the fluid looks like engine oil this is only my second rebuild on a tranny and the first one i havent put in the truck yet so hopefully that one works and this one goes smoothly and works well when done all the hard parts look good so far and the 3rd gear clutches look great 2nd gear looks a little burnt and i havent looked at first gear yet and im guessing they are smoked by the looks of the trans fluid

and the damn thing has a ****ty 27 spline output shaft my last tranny had the same damn thing so i also gotta get a new output shaft which i should have one somewhere

so any advice on rebuilding these
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  #116 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2010, 03:53 AM
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For good race strength it is good to have the 34 element intermediate sprag/drum rather than the newer roller clutch type. If the drum is the roller clutch type, the 34 element sprag drum is available new, it is used in the 4L80 trans.

The 27 spline output doesn't rally cost any strength if you want to use it. Of course, you can change it so it will match another 400 trans so they are interchangable if that is what you are thinking.
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  #117 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2010, 09:08 AM
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ya i want to run a fixed yoke 32 spline out put shaft since that is what i have the drive shaft for and in my opinion are the best why else would gm have used them in all the heavy duty rigs

and it is a common transmission out put shaft that can be easily found if i need to throw a used trans in it
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Old 12-21-2010, 11:32 AM
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taking my tranny down to a friends tranny shop today to have him look at the parts and tell me whats bad and good i could propably have him just build the tranny for me for the price of parts but i have tore apart a few trannys out of his shop that were recently fresh and i think i could do a tranny as good if i take my time and follow directions



it looks like this tranny already has the 34 element sprag also it did not have one check ball under the valve body wich is wierd i thought they had to keep at least one

also is it common to have the engine braking band quit working in these turbo 400s cause i think i have had at least 3 maybe 4 that would not slow down if manually downshifted to second ?
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  #119 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2010, 01:09 PM
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Many full manual reverse pattern and transbrake valvebodies don't use a check ball. Make sure when you do the rebuild you duplicate the way it was set up before as far as leaving sealing rings or piston lip seals out in some areas, that are from the requirements of the T-brake valvebody.

None of the reverse pattern and T-brake valvebodies(that I know of) use the intermediate band, some of the forward pattern bodies and kits eliminate its function too.
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Old 12-22-2010, 11:47 AM
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so no engine braking in second since there is no intermediate band im alright with that knowing that its supposed to be that way

the guy at the tranny shop talked me into just leaving it there and he will put it together tuesday I had to order some plate gaskets from jegs since i know the rebuild kit isnt gonna come with the right plate gaskets so they should be on their way and i ordered the 34 element sprag my clutches looked smoked but the steels looked alright but i just bought all new clutches and steels man i cant wait to see what its like to leave on a trans brake and some good fat tires in the back of this thing

I would assume this will help my 60' pretty damn good
now i just gotta work on my driving
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