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  #121 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2010, 01:51 PM
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You'll soon know what's the weak link when you hit it hard w/a transbrake. I've even had rear wheels rotate inside the slicks- never did it using a foot brake, so it was definitely hitting a LOT harder. This was a BBC 396 in a Gremlin, BTW. Not making a ton of HP or anything.

Most things when they break won't necessarily have you into the guardrail. But a couple areas that CAN cause trouble are fluid loss, wheel studs, C-clips and U-joints/yokes. Seems like a good time to upgrade the wheel studs (if needed) and to get away from C-clip axle retention if that's what it has now. Might also want to think about installing an NHRA approved d-shaft loop. Those things will help to keep it from going WAY bad if they let go.

In any event, it sounds like it's going to be an exciting ride! I know my buddy like to have s--- himself when the wheels came up the first time- something else the car hadn't done off the foot brake!

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  #122 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2010, 03:08 PM
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parts are in already except the plate gaskets from jegs
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Old 12-23-2010, 12:31 AM
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I guess this has kind of became my build thread for this truck so i will post some of the earliest pictures i have of this truck this is when i got it home from the first body shop and its on its way to the private guy working out of his garage















and here it is after





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  #124 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2010, 12:45 AM
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here is a video of me burning some old tires

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fa14rfZKYQs

hope you enjoy

Last edited by abigassbowtie; 12-23-2010 at 12:50 AM.
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Old 12-23-2010, 02:06 AM
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there is some pictures of mine and the trucks very first ever pictures and hopelessly addicted
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  #126 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2010, 02:30 PM
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You might want to start a Project Journal. That way, you can keep all of your photos and build info together, and you can easily link to it (as can everyone else) by clicking on the icon that will appear at the top of your posts.

Just a thought...
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Old 12-23-2010, 04:01 PM
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I would do that but i like the fact of having all my questions and responses i got in one thread

here is a few more of the steering column i polished and the dash i made i still havent gotten the tach to match the rest of the gauges



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  #128 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2010, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abigassbowtie


there is some pictures of mine and the trucks very first ever pictures and hopelessly addicted

Good Stuff! The angle of the picture makes the track look downhill. Must be designed for imports...
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  #129 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2010, 07:56 PM
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yeah it does look down hill i never noticed that. It has a really steep up hill at the end to help you slow down for exit
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  #130 (permalink)  
Old 12-24-2010, 03:23 AM
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NHRA sanctioned tracks are allowed up to a +/- 1% grade or slope to the track. IHRA uses a +/- 1/10"(?) specification. I'm not sure, but suspect that is a 1 inch in 10 foot grade change (.8%), maybe?

Anyway, that 1% looks like a lot from a distance or on TV from a wide shot. And like at this track, the track will often go "uphill" at 1% after the finish line.
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  #131 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2010, 05:46 PM
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Man im excited to see how it leaves on the trans brake! Me and the tranny guy put it together today. now its on me to get it in the truck and i think its ready for drag season again other than tires i just gotta talk the girlfriend into letting me buy some but i got a while before i need them. I would put the tranny in today but its cold as hell out side and i dont have a heater in the garage and its supposed to snow tonight so i wouldnt get to see what it does anyway

any advice on how to wire the button ?

i am still using column shift. my star shifter wont work with reverse manual valve body
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  #132 (permalink)  
Old 12-28-2010, 09:04 PM
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Build a bracket to hold the button somewhere within the drivers reach but in a location it isn't likely to get bumped by accident while moving(bad things can happen inside trans if that happens). I like to use a position at the dash at arms length in front of you, like above the heater controls for example. Reason being is from reading a test on reflexes, you jerk your whole arm away from touching something(like fingers on a hot burner) faster than you move just your thumb or finger...test yourself . You'll see a lot of winning bracket racers set up the same way - on the dash, on the roll bar above the windshield, on the windshield post, even seen one sneaky in the cigar lighter hole behind the ashtray door.

Wire the button to trigger through a 30 amp relay(like a fog or driving light relay), the transbrake pulls a lot of amps, too many for a simple momentary contact button to live with for long.
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:07 AM
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thats what i was wondering is if i should just use a relay or if wiring it off the fuse panel would be acceptable but i just read that they can draw up to 10 amps so i will definetly use a relay with a 15 amp inline fuse just like i did my fuel pump

thanks
jeff
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  #134 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2011, 10:41 PM
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Got my tranny in today but parts store is closed so i dont have any trans fluid and i dont have everything to wire in the trans brake button and since im using the lokar dipstick that is not as long as the stock one i think ill just run it inside the cab it has to be running to check it anyway

jeff
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Old 01-02-2011, 11:23 PM
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got it all done and wired! I havent drove it, I tested the trans brake in the garage and it stalls at 3500ish thats good i think cant wait to try it out but i gotta wait till next weekend since im outta town for work for the next week (I hate my job)

btw im only into the whole tranny 300$
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