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Old 09-03-2002, 09:48 PM
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Wink Hot Alternator??

I have just finished converting my 51 chevy pickup to a 350/350. I have also installed a modern aftermarket wiring harness.
So far every thing seams to work good.
If I turn the key on without the engine running and let it set a few minutes the alternator gets real hot. If you leave it for 30-40 minutes it is almost to hot to touch.
Is this normal??
OR do I have a defective alternator??
It is wired properly as per the wire harness instructions.

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Old 09-04-2002, 08:21 AM
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HEY RED: It sounds like the battery is shorting back to ground through the alternator. Some of the auto parts stores will check out the unit in the car for you FREE. Auto Zone in our area is a good source. Heat is caused by current flow and I would suspect that the internal regulator has a short. Let us know what you find DAVE E SHANK
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Old 09-04-2002, 10:26 AM
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Could be an armature short, a growler test will find it. So would a new alternator.
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Old 09-04-2002, 01:24 PM
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Dead diodes will short too. regaurdless, everything mentione to date (except the bad rotor) can be replaced with a $12 rebuild kit.
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Old 09-04-2002, 03:17 PM
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Hea willys, just my two cents worth. I put a one wire alt into the ole 57 pickup, and it is a breeze. One wire from the battery to alt. and your done. Best $83.00 i spent in a long time.
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Old 09-04-2002, 03:55 PM
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sound tough? no..Ive done the same thing. the regulator is straight wired through to the battery. it must be run through the ignition switch. So it only runs when the engine is on!
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Old 09-05-2002, 06:47 AM
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Thanks guys,
It is wired properly as per the wire harness instructions. I have the RED #15 wire hooked up to the large stud on the back of the alt. with a jumper going to the #2 Alt. terminal and the Alternator exciter wire #14 going to the #1 terminal.
I will take the Alternator to Autozone and have them test it.
I will keep you updated on this problem.

I am getting real excited to fire up this engine/truck up for the first time. I bought it 2 1/2 years ago with a dead straight 6. I took it down to the frame for a total rebuild.
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Old 09-05-2002, 06:59 AM
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If all is wired correctly then the regulator is getting a hot signal from the battery and will run the battery down....is the "fool prove wiring kit" having you run the reg wire through the ignition? :p
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Old 09-05-2002, 10:16 PM
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Howdy

Al Campion here with AutoReWire.com

Ok heres the deal.

You almost have the Alternator wired correctly. But according to your post you are not running an idicator light, right? You have a plain non resistor wire running from the alternator field terminal number 1 to your ignition switch, right?

Therein lies the problem. And it's a mistake that is made on a regular basis and in many cases it does not cause a problem until the diodes or the regulator finaly give up.

On all cars that GM built with the 10si alternator that did not use an indicator light a length of 1 or 2 ohm resistance wire was used in the under dash wiring harness. On vehicles with an indicator light the light bulb becomes the resistor...GM did this for a reason.

I would suggest that you install a good heavy 10 ohm resister in line between your ignition switch and the field terminal.

Take a look at these posts for more information. <a href="http://www.hotrodders.com/cgibin/ubb/17/000127" target="_blank">http://www.hotrodders.com/cgibin/ubb/17/000127</A>

<a href="http://www.hotrodders.com/cgibin/ubb/17/000128" target="_blank">http://www.hotrodders.com/cgibin/ubb/17/000128</A>

Good luck and please let us know how it turns out.

al
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Old 09-05-2002, 10:20 PM
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I took the Alternator to AutoZone and it checked out OK.
Here is a link to the wire harness that I installed. It is the 12 circuit model.KWIK Wire
The big wire that is hooked up to the alternator comes from the fuse block. I need to look at it to see where it gets it power from.

Should the big wire (battery positive)on the back of the Alternator have power when the ignition switch is in the off position?
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Old 09-05-2002, 10:28 PM
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Yes the BAT post and the #2 terminal on the alternator are always hot.

Look at the diagram in the first of the post that I suggested you look at. This is how GM wired all of the cars that used this alternator. (substitute a length of resistor wire for the indicator light on cars with voltmeters)

Normally a red 10 AWG wire is run from the alternator to the battery cable at the starter solenoid on the factory GM autos.

al
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Old 09-05-2002, 10:35 PM
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Thanks AL, That makes sense. I will go get a resister today. I would like to fire this thing up on Sat. and don't need any more problems to worry about.

[ September 06, 2002: Message edited by: Redshiba ]</p>
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Old 09-06-2002, 04:42 AM
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I dont care what MR Rewire says. the Alt does not need constant power. Why would it need constant power? tell me this?
anyway good luck. put the alt a switched fuse
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Old 09-06-2002, 10:01 PM
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I went to radio Shack an bought a 10 Ohm / 10 Watt resistor and installed it in the exciter wire, It took care of the problem. Tha alternator is nice and cool now.
This resistor is the big ceramic type and it gets quite hot. Is this correct now??
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Old 09-06-2002, 10:58 PM
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Mr.Rewire here

You're absolutely right Mr. DragLinkscc a three wire 10si does not need constant power and it darn sure doesn't need a full 13.5 volts either. That is the reason for the resistor. Believe me GM uses a resistor or an indicator light for a reason.

Most of the time a three wire 10si alternator needs the field excited to get it charging. It doesn't take much juice to excite the field, only a few volts. You can disconnect the #1 (field) wire completely and some times the alternator will excite itself and charge as long as it has the sensing wire hooked up to the regulator(#2 terminal). But most times you will find that the alternator will not start charging and all it will take to get it going is to just touch the #1 terminal with jumper lead. Once excited it will continue to charge until it stops rotating.

Yes Redshiba it's correct.

al
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