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Old 04-17-2007, 08:56 AM
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hot alternator

My friend's alternator gets hot when the car is just sitting, not turned on or anything. We're all stumped over here. Its a one wire alternator on a 64 chevelle. I say switch back over to the good old 3-wire. Any suggestions?

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Old 04-17-2007, 10:18 AM
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what is the condition of the alternator? any number of the components inside the alternator can cause a direct ground number 1 in my experiance is usally the stator. if you want to keep the one wire alt. just take it off take it to auto zone or any other local parts store and have them test it for you. if its bad just go with replacing the one wire. i have bought many alts just to get them home and then run them a few minuets if at all and then have them die. so many that i got to the pint to wher i just rebuild my own.
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Old 04-17-2007, 10:20 AM
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man i type like i think. a direct ground in the alt can cause it to heat up while the vehicle is setting. and when i said i would just replace the one wire i ment one wire alternator. sorry need to start proof reading my posts
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Old 04-17-2007, 10:26 AM
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is it possible it could catch fire? reason i ask is we bought a remanufactured alt for my fathers 96 s10 and after driving it at 2 pm it caught fire a 10 pm and it looked to have started on the front passenger side where its located.
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Old 04-17-2007, 10:42 AM
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yeah anything grounding can cause a wire to over heat and melt like a grilled chesse. if it touches anything flamable then you get a flame. your fuse should stop it from getting that hot but i would not take my chances just take it to get it tested if thats not your problem come back let us know and we can try to help you from there.
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Old 04-17-2007, 12:41 PM
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normally, alt output is unfused... we had a '02 Chevy 1500 in our H/S auto shop, sitting on the batt charger, and the power was going back through the diodes, and it actully cought the alternator on fire, didn't take long to put it out, but the fire extinglusher shure did make a mess
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Old 04-17-2007, 01:11 PM
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Thanks, I'll tell him to get it tested.
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Old 04-17-2007, 01:51 PM
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You probably have a bad rectifier assy. It can be changed easily and should be fairly inexpensive. It can be checked with a simple multimeter. I would be willing to bet one of the diodes are shorted.

here is some info I found in another post

If you are talking about the 10SI alternator, the one with four bolts holding it together, I can help.

The rectifier is tested by placing one end of the meter on the ground plane, the side that goes against the case. Touch the stator contact posts, one at a time, with the other lead. All should have no path(open), or closed pathLow (resistance). Reverse the leads and the results should reverse. Now repeat the procedure using the power output side versus the three stator posts. The path results should reverse because the three diodes are opposite polarity from the ground side diodes.

The stator is tested by making sure each of the three leads has contunity to the other with no resistance. Then make sure there is no short to ground by setting your meter to the 100,000. ohms and make sure there is no contunity from the leads to the frame of the stator stack. Keep your fingers out of the path or the meter will read you as a ground short, at this setting
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Old 04-17-2007, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bucket23
You probably have a bad rectifier assy. It can be changed easily and should be fairly inexpensive. It can be checked with a simple multimeter. I would be willing to bet one of the diodes are shorted.

here is some info I found in another post

If you are talking about the 10SI alternator, the one with four bolts holding it together, I can help.

The rectifier is tested by placing one end of the meter on the ground plane, the side that goes against the case. Touch the stator contact posts, one at a time, with the other lead. All should have no path(open), or closed pathLow (resistance). Reverse the leads and the results should reverse. Now repeat the procedure using the power output side versus the three stator posts. The path results should reverse because the three diodes are opposite polarity from the ground side diodes.

The stator is tested by making sure each of the three leads has contunity to the other with no resistance. Then make sure there is no short to ground by setting your meter to the 100,000. ohms and make sure there is no contunity from the leads to the frame of the stator stack. Keep your fingers out of the path or the meter will read you as a ground short, at this setting
also, a " A/C Ripple " test can be preformed. set DVOM to A/C volts, start engine, touch red lead to alternator output, black lead to alt case, anything more than .5v is tecnically unacceptable, but some say 1v.
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Old 04-17-2007, 04:52 PM
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Doc here,

Sounds like to me you have one or more Diodes reverse Biased, (leaking backward from ground)

This is the reason for the heat as opposed to a burned output wire, the diode array is posing a resistance to ground as opposed to an outright dead short..which would melt the output wire and may start a fire..

You can get a rebuild kit for about $15 Fazools..simple and easy to install..







OR you could go back to the 3 wire Alternator, Which is a much better Alternator...(more options, remote sensing..ect..)

Either way you do it, Install a fuse link or MAXI Fuse on the output wire..to prevent fires..you were lucky this time.

Doc
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