I own a 48 plymouth deluxe business coupe with a 218 cid L head six cylinder. She has a 3 speed manual tranny. This old girl uses the points system and was originally a 6 volt car. I put in a one wire 12 volt GM alternator, 12 v battery, changed polarity and installed a 12 v resisted coil. The only thing remaining 6 volt is the blower motor for the heater and the fuel gauge. Both of these items have voltage reducers between them and the power source. The car starts great, but the ignition coil gets very hot after a while. The coil also gets hot with just the key on, but engine not running. You can place your hand on the coil, but you WANT to leave go. I almost forgot, NAPA sold me a new 12 v FORD starter solenoid for it. (their recommendation). The juice runs from the battery to the solenoid then splits to the starter and another to the original horn relay. The horn relay sends the power to the various destinations of the car.
I know the coil runs a bit warm, but did'nt think it should be too hot. I had an unresisted coil in it too, with the ballast resistor hooked up, but had the same result. Maybe I am making something out of nothing. The engine does seem to run rougher the hotter the coil gets though!?
Thanks for your reply.
Glenn
when converting to 12 volt system did you also use wires to the coil ment for 12 volts?
if the wires are not rated for 12 volts they will buid heat
resistance=heat
also check your grounds.
A Coil runs NORMALLY HOT..a Resistive Coil runs TWICE AS HOT..because it has built in ballast..
On a standard coil and ballast system, IF you put your hand on the ballast..I guarantee you will get a BAD burn..
A Standard Coil is sinking about 20 amps to grounds..that makes heat..A Performance coil will do DOUBLE that..because the internal resistance is less..(primary windings)
^ volt wiring will support approximately DOUBLE the current as that gauged for a 12 volt circuit..not the other way around.
Doc imp:
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