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Old 06-29-2011, 08:52 PM
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Hot Rod Black Paint

I have questions on the pros and cons of hot rod black paint. Which would be a better paint job?, base coat/clear coat or single stage. Obviously the clear would have a flattening agent in it. How do these paints react to bird droppings? Can it be polished, by that I mean can I put a protective coat of wax on it? I have experience painting so either paints I can handle. It's just that I'm not sure of which way to go. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Ed

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Old 06-29-2011, 10:42 PM
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Flat,any flat and other not shiny paints shows finger prints,oil of any type,plus bird crap don't fully clean off ever and pretty much looks like hell in a very short time,is a much bigger PITA then doing it right with the shiny . I'm always amazed at how many seem to think falt looks like a hot rod finish.
But I'm going on 70 soon and been building rods from when I was 15 years old,sure there were some rods that never made it to shiny paint in the 1950's and into the mid 60's,but all of them were trying to get to being shiny,none thought flat was a finish,only primer that needed more work.
Now if your just driving a beater,then fine,let rust under primer.
You can shiny it just as cheep as wasting your time on tying to do what a lot of the newbes seem think is the way it was,but wasn't.
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Old 06-30-2011, 05:41 AM
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I have seen some paint jobs with a certain amount of flattener that looked good. I'm not a paint and body man but I'll tell you, base coat/clear coat just doesn't impress me that much. You never saw a car painted in enamel looking like it was shedding it's skin after 10 years. I've had a couple of those paint bc/cc jobs done and they seemed real thin, scratched right down to the primer real easy.
Nowdays it isn't always about working your way up to affording a top notch shiny paint job, some people just want to drive.
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Old 06-30-2011, 12:53 PM
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My opinion with a lot of experience in owning cars for the last 15 years experimenting with bith...
If you plan on keeping it in the garage or covering go with the Flat alone.. Will have a better chance of getting it silky satin smooth..
If you are going to keep outdoors definetly shoot aflat clear. The problem with flat clear is that its hard to control how flat its really gonna be after mixing and you risk getting a slight filmy finish with the clear or streaks.
If someone can perfectly shoot the clear and get the perfect flattening agent on it go for it... might need to spend alittle extra and shoot some sample panels
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:02 PM
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I bought a truck that is painted with JDBB. I prefer color.
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:20 PM
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Heres 1 with both semi gloss (Black BC/CC with flatting agent 50% let down)
and Shiney (Copper)
It ain't easy to do, but easy to take care of.
No water spots, finger prints or fading
Ya treat it just like any other paint job.
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:28 PM
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If you are doing a flat job mix enough to do the job otherwise you may get variance in your flatness..

Sam
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I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:31 PM
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jd black is for tractors........
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Old 06-30-2011, 10:28 PM
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Just went through all of this with a job I am still finishing up on. Flat hot rod black is what this guy wanted and I shot it with PPG 2060 flat clear over a black base. I mixed it 3-1-1/2 so it dried super flat like a true primer black look. But the problem was as soon as you touched it or handled it in any way that is the way it stayed, finger prints, rub marks, you name it that is the way it was staying and you could not clean it up no matter what you did. Bottom line is it really looked terrible very quickly. What I ended up doing is resprayed it with SPI black epoxy. 2 wet coats, it dried a really nice satin black look without any streaks or blotches and it really looks good as is. It is also a very durable finish.
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:03 PM
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Hot Rod Black Paint

mr4speed, that's exactly the problems I'm trying to avoid. I'm doing a late model Camaro. I primered the whole car with DP90LF, painted the roof with DBU9700 and put 2 coats of DC2021 clear on it. The roof is gloss, the owner wants the bottom matte or satin black. You mentioned SPI black. Who makes it?

Thanks, Ed
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:13 AM
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I've been using PPG DCU 2060 Flexed "N" Flat clear on some stuff. It has a mix ratio of 6:1:1 and you can either mix it with DC9 or DCX61 hardner and it will have zero shine. You can also alter the shine from eggshell to semi gloss by adding clear to the mix. The ratio depends on what you want but it is covered in the tech sheet. The only down fall with it is you cannot wet sand and buff it.

I painted a few snowmobile gas tanks with it and one the master cylinder leaked over summer and the residue just wiped off with no harm to the finish.
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Old 07-01-2011, 06:21 AM
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the spi epoxy is likely your best bet. the gloss can be controlled with reducer. the slower it cures the more gloss. wish we had it back in the 70's for the cuda's . god i hated those flat hoods. most epoxies will chalk up in a matter of months but the spi will last for years even in the sun. it also wont show prints and such . they are closed until tues but give barry a call.

404-307-9740
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Old 07-01-2011, 06:43 AM
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Ive had SPI black epoxy on my car for about 5yrs (mostly outside) it still looks good and no chalking yet...I wont use any other epoxy.
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:05 AM
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SPI is Southern Polyurethanes Inc
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:55 PM
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Hot Rod black paint

Here's a couple pictures of my 46 tractor $28.00 gal. finger prints show on it if you touch it, but they come off with soap and water. I did not paint it, I just got the car to drive while I finished my 33. As far as I know is it has been on there 7 years. The only thing wrong with it, it does get dusty when I plow.

Bob
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