Hi there

I am new here. I am building a tube frame for a 32 pickup. I want to use heavy walll 3x2" tubing because I want to keep it low with sort of the channeled look. I am using 32 rails from the firewall forward to give it a z in the front and kicking up the rear. I think the 2x3 should be plenty strong, considering that an original frame is 2x6 open channel. same amount of material right? Please let me know what you think and don't beat me up too bad if you don't think so I am asking for input. Ih yes it is going to be fenderless with a dropped axle. Thanks

One of or Moderators here..Deuce...builds 32 frames he can tell you a lot more about this than I can. If it were me though..I believe I would box those original 32 rails.

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Hotrodding is much more than just owning a hotrod...It is a state of mind!

Check this out...click here and read. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/deu...ers-134313.html

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Hotrodding is much more than just owning a hotrod...It is a state of mind!

Thank you, I don't have a stock deuce frame, I have the rails from just behind the firewall forward from a '32 big truck. They look exactly the same from the firewall/body mount holes to the three holes in the side to mount the fenders. That's why I was going custom frame. I could buy some repop rails and build a stock frame, but then I would have to have to channel the body quite a bit to get the look I am after and would loose the interior room.

And for the record, no, this is not going to be a outrageouslly low tail dragger, and definetly not a rat rod. It is going to be fullly finished with a early 1960's theme.

Thanks again

Is it Ford or Chevy? I'm building a 32 Chevy pickup. I made my frame front to back from 3x2 .120 wall. Check my project journal. Let me know if I can help in anyway. I'm open to any suggestions.

your journal says 2x4 and it looks more like 2x4 than 2x3

Hi fb

Same amount of material does not necessarilly translate to same strength or more importantly stiffness. In fact I would think that the 2x6 open rail would be much stiffer than your 2x3 in a vertical bending moment, although it might not have the torsional stiffness. But when you join two rails together with crossmembers the 2x6 will benefit greatly whereas your 2x3 will not so much, and you might find it sagging in the middle depending on how much the body adds to it's stiffness. I would recommend going to 2x4 if you can. At least take some drawings to an experienced chassis guy and get some input. I designed mine by looking at sites like 'Art Morrison, Heidts, Fatman Chassisworks etc.

This is a frame I made for my 32 Chevy roadster.Glass car...This 2x3x1/8''.. On my rat rod I built my frame out of 2x4x3/16'' I didn't go bigger because I had any problem's,I went bigger because the car will be a little heavier....

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I went with 2x6 0.120 tube for my chassis..May be a bit of overkill but then it gives me room for things like mufflers and made it a bit easier to build..the difference in cost was minimal..

Sam

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I would rather make it work than make it popular..And if it does not work it will not be popular..

Here there is a big difference and cost....

Of course there are many other factors to be considered before you can make an informed decision - body weight, wheelbase, engine power, etc.

I used the same size as 'one more time'. Nothing like a little extra insurance, although my wheelbase is long at 136 inches.

Mine only took one 20 foot bar for the main rails and the kickups are 2x3..reminds me to get going again and get this thing finished before the snow flies..

Sam

__________________
I would rather make it work than make it popular..And if it does not work it will not be popular..

About how much per foot is the 2x3 tubing?

Shane

My journal is correct, it is 2x4 .120 wall. My wheelbase is only 110''.