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Hot Start Issues
I have a 69 RS Camaro with a 383 Stroker. While putting in the new engine I also moved the battery to the trunk. Now I'am having issues with hot starts. The engine has a heavy duty OEM starter, the battery is a 1000 CCA lead acid and the juice is running through 0 gauge cables from the trunk to a power point in the engine compartment. Then there is a 0 gauge jumper to the starter.
It will turn over when its cold, but as soon as it get a little warm or the battery loses a little juice it won't start, it just clicks but won't turn over. A battery charger with engine assist won't work, but jumping it from another car will. I have had two ideas for how to fix this. First is to get a high torque mini-starter to have more starting power with less amp draw. The other was to get an Optima battery or maybe both. Does anyone have any ideas on which one I should try first or have any other ideas on how to solve this problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
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i always use 00 or 000 cable(finer & more strands of wire) when putting a battery in the trunk but 0 cable will work. run both the POS. & NEG. using the same size cable & ground it to the block or starter 1st & then to the body using the same cable. i don't like using the frame because there is always a chance of a bad connection (in lots of places) & by going to the block/starter then the body u are sure its grounded properly. with the POS. cable the ONLY splice i would have in it is a cut off switch. i have had a few street rods that would go beyond the boiling point after they were shut down & they would ALWAYS fire rite back up w/o any problems.
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if the starter & battery are good ones then i would start w/the cables & be sure you have GOOD CONNECTIONS....joe |
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Heat Soak
Doc here,
First Get a load Check on that battery as suggested By toomany2 count, This will tell you the state of your battery. If it is bad, Replace it, Optima is a good choice. Everything Toomany2 count is right on the money. Your Ground should ground at or near the starter for maximum performance, then jumper from there to the frame with a battery cable that has ring terminals on both ends (Can be had at the local parts store for about 6 bucks, or you can make your own if you have a nicopress) Also at your starter Ground, Run 2-10 gauge wires, one to ground at the firewall, and one to the alternator mount bracket or alternator ground bolt. Clean the grounding area of grease, and burnish the paint to bare metal. Use Star washers at each ground point, and torque the bolts tight. The POSITIVE cable should run Directly to the solenoid, with no breaks in the cable,(except for a disconnect if so equipped). Then run a secondary cable to your terminal junction you have now (Reverse your hook up as it stands now). This will ensure You are Delivering Maximum Current to the Load, Besides if that terminal bolt ever comes loose during cranking cycles, it could spell disaster.. GM (AKA: General Mystery) as well as other's, Makes a Heat shield For SBC Starters To deflect heat from the starter, and is quite effective. In addition to that, you can get some heat wrap for the right header to further lower temperatures in that area..You COULD try wrapping the starter in it too...but In my opinion the jury's still out on that one..(If it keeps heat out..it must also hold it in..) Some say it works, some say it doesn't. I've personally never tried it. Hope it helps! Keep us updated! Doc ![]() BTW, Howdy neighbor!..where are you at, I'm in Lafayette..
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Aftermarket Solutions Electronic & Electrical Innovations Last edited by docvette; 05-03-2005 at 02:51 AM. Reason: Doc's Got Bigthumbitis...or self inflicted type"O"s |
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The heat shield should help....also, maybe look into a remote solenoid.
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