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hot start relay

4K views 8 replies 5 participants last post by  lg1969 
#1 ·
starter and bendix overheating 350 chevy with headers @ insulated started shield didn't help..what is the best starter and how to solve this problem? Ramjet 350 om 34 ford!!
 
#5 ·
You could go Ford starter relay/solenoid.... junkyard about 5 bucks......

IMO it won't fix your problem just a band aid...... All the kits do is re-route the switching power to a different location (remote) if your bindix is worn/almost gone, it'll still be that way after the kit. If the starter windings are worn/almost gone...... same result.

IMO the only thing a kit will fix, is if the solenoid it's self is worn/almost gone, then the right kit will basically bypass the OEM solenoid etc....... so if that's what your after the Ford starter relay is the cheapest route. If it fixes it, you're done if it doesn't, you're out 5 bucks.
 
#6 ·
You could go Ford starter relay/solenoid.... junkyard about 5 bucks......

IMO it won't fix your problem just a band aid......
The fallacy in the Ford soleniod conversion is that the GM solenoid STILL MUST FUNCTION for the starter to operate. The reason for the hot start problem is that the internal contacts get pitted by use and the resistance goes up (which is the reason NOT to waste your time with junkyard parts). The lengthy circuit through the neutral safety switch and ignition switch just makes this worse. The Ford solenoid avoids this added resistance, but it doesn't fix the pitted contacts problem in the GM solenoid.

I prefer to 1) rebuild the starter using known good contacts in the solenoid and 2) add a relay to the "S" terminal on the starter. This is much easier to wire, as you don't have to mess with the heavy gauge battery cable, and it avoids having to use a Ford part in your GM. :D

 
#8 ·
Kind of agree with you Joe........ with the Ford relay, you are correct...... it still needs the GM solenoid to kick the bindix out........ Jumping the "S" terminal on the GM solenoid to the batt terminal on the GM solenoid then attaching the cable from the Ford relay provides a good strong current to the GM and sometimes will fix the, as you correctly stated, pitted contacts problem (if they're not to far gone) inside the GM solenoid, at least I have had good luck doing it this way. Again just a band aid......... IMO. But if it does work for the guy, easy day, buy a new Ford relay or not, if it doesn't he's out 5 bucks
 
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