Hot starter... How to install ignition power interrupt switch on the HEI +12v - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 01-03-2010, 06:12 PM
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Hot starter... How to install ignition power interrupt switch on the HEI +12v

Just got the 327-V8 in my 1965 C10 up and running... Have a problem with hard starts. Cranks and runs well until the temp comes up and the headers get real hot, then the hard starting and a dragging starter... I am going to install the soleniod on the fenderwell and hope to ad in a power interrupt switch for the HEI unit to disable the spark and allow easy turn over. What I would like to do is allow the engine to turn over easily without the spark and then flip a toggle to allow the spark to flow and start the engine easily... Is there a tutorial around that outlines how to do this or can anyone shed some light on how to do it...?

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Old 01-03-2010, 06:23 PM
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Get a quality SPST 15Amp rated auto/marine/rv toggle switch. Mount it on the dash somewhere you won't hit with your leg while driving. The switch gets wired/spliced in to the big red/pink HEI +12V power feed wire.

On old chevs that used to have a points style delco distributor, the wire that went to the + side of the old ignition coil becomes the power wire for the HEI.
Check that this wire has a full 12V with a volt ohm meter. if it does not show 12V you have to eliminate the 1965 OEM Inline resistance wire from that circuit and replace it with a converntional copper wire.
The OEM resistance wire runs from the wireing harness bulkhead connector on the firewall to the old coil + terminal.
The HEI requires a full 12volts to work.

Get a heat shield wrap for the starter too. If the starter solenoid is already cook from the headers, replace it first, then install the heat shield.

Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 01-03-2010 at 06:31 PM.
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Old 01-03-2010, 06:33 PM
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Many times this is fixed by improving the grounds on the system you have. Run the ground from the battery to the block, then add another from the block to the frame, then another from the intake to the firewall. This fix has worked many times for me in the past.
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Old 01-03-2010, 07:26 PM
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a mini starter helped mine out to
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:42 PM
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When I splice into the wire, can you describe where to attach the ends on the switch...? for example, which end goes to on and which goes to off...?


Quote:
Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88
Get a quality SPST 15Amp rated auto/marine/rv toggle switch. Mount it on the dash somewhere you won't hit with your leg while driving. The switch gets wired/spliced in to the big red/pink HEI +12V power feed wire.

On old chevs that used to have a points style delco distributor, the wire that went to the + side of the old ignition coil becomes the power wire for the HEI.
Check that this wire has a full 12V with a volt ohm meter. if it does not show 12V you have to eliminate the 1965 OEM Inline resistance wire from that circuit and replace it with a converntional copper wire.
The OEM resistance wire runs from the wireing harness bulkhead connector on the firewall to the old coil + terminal.
The HEI requires a full 12volts to work.

Get a heat shield wrap for the starter too. If the starter solenoid is already cook from the headers, replace it first, then install the heat shield.
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robby5323
When I splice into the wire, can you describe where to attach the ends on the switch...? for example, which end goes to on and which goes to off...?
Some people should just not work on cars. Close the hood and call a mechanic.
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:57 PM
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So, as I thought, makes no directional difference... Just trying to keep it simple... You're probably right, I should just call a mechanic. I appreciate your help anyways....



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Some people should just not work on cars. Close the hood and call a mechanic.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:20 PM
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nevermind. I don;t have the energy.
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Old 01-03-2010, 10:59 PM
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Easier to insulate the starter from the heat and prevent the problem to begin with. Check your initial timing to make sure its not excessive, more than 14-16 initial is too much.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:28 AM
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Wiring in an external solenoid and good battery cables and grounds should cure it without having to wire in an ignition interrupt.
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:57 AM
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My Camaro had an alarm/disable system in it when I bought it,
someone had spliced a cutoff switch into the red wire for the HEI.
It was a serious bottleneck in the electrical supply to the HEI, badly done at that with a stupid little "flick type" switch.
It came out as soon as I discovered it.
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:09 AM
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IMHO, if you want to wire in a interrupt in a high draw circut, or one that is especially sensitive to voltage (such as the HEI power) you should always run a relay. They are designed to pass current with as little resistance as possible, and are less of the bottleneck that a simple flick switch is. Not hard to wire in, but does require some electrical know how. If done, don't get a relay with less than a 40 amp rating. My preference for this type of install is a continuous duty solenoid, heavy duty. They can handle 250 amps, and are designed to stay engaged. An added plus to them, is that when you throw the switch, you can definately hear them engage with a loud "clack".
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Old 01-04-2010, 09:15 AM
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The HEI only draws 7 to 10amps max and only when at high rpm. At idle it only draws around 3-4 amps.
The wire distance is short. The relay is unessessary. Just use a 15a rated quality toggle switch. About $10 in most automotive parts stores.

Your car stereo draws more amperage.
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