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I was thinking neutral safety switch, but jumping it should make no difference
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the truck is a 56 chevy with a late 80's worked engine...i am going to change the ignition switch and neutral safety also...I am confused why no matter what as soon as i jump it whether it sits for awhile or not it starts...
the other day i drove it, it did the same thing so i left it in the garage in disgust the next morning it started right up... so its like is something getting hot and messing things up? |
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Whaere are you connecting the cables. You could have a bad terminal to cable connection on the battery so the jumpers are getting arround this because they attach to the cables at a different point than the battery.
To answer your original question, heat soak is real but you wont see it in 10 or 15 minutes of running and usually it shows up as slow cranking not a (nothing) . When it doesnt crank at all do the lights or anything work. Turn on the headlights next time it wont start and see if they go out when you turn the key to start. Chet |
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Check your battery ground cable....make sure the cable is not coroded under the insulation...make sure that where the end fastens to your engine block that it is clean, rust free, no grease, and tight. Make sure the other end at your battery is clean and tight also.
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I had a similar problem years ago. It's most likely a poor connection somewhere that is sensitive to heat.
One quick test is, if you can, hook a volt meter or gauge to the purple "start" terminal on the solenoid and ground. If you can run the wires inside it will be easier. If not, next time it won't start, turn the key to the "start" position and look at the voltage at that wire on the solenoid. Often times it's either zero or less than 8-9 volts. The solenoid needs close to 12 volts to pull the plunger inside. GM calls it a "hot soak problem". If you have low voltage, start looking for an old crappy dusty, loose or corroded connection somewhere. It will be anywhere that wire goes through either a switch or connector. Sometimes just running a brand new wire from the switch to the solenoid will do the trick. If it is in fact 12 volts, I'd suspect either a loose connection on the starter OR a bad solenoid. Sometimes the extra oompf from another battery will overcome the problem, as you are seeing. Mark |
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hey guys
thanks for the thoughts...i will take a look at the lights next time...also the wire harness is new, pretty much everything is in the truck...i will double check the nuts on the start to see if they are loose. thanks |
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Hey guys
I had the same problem last night...ran it for awhile and it got hot...after i parked it, it wouldnt start...I did check to see if i had my secondary...all lights work, horn, ect... i went out this morning and it started by itself...do you think its the starter or what. Thanks |
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Hot starter
Very doubtfull that it is your starter if you can jump it off after it is hot. I have had some problems with using a cheap AC Delco starter but the only cure is to let it cool before starting again. Also, are you using a side post battery or top. Side post will give problems with the pos terminal that will have a hidden corrosion problem. The only way to see it is to remove the cables and check them for corrosion. Start simple first, Jerry
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hey
I have a top term. battery...i am wondering if my solenoid on the starter is bad...like i said, i have power through the truck when this issue happens...also it happens if i drive it like an half hour or more...very frustrating! |
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hot start
Quote:
Everyone that has ever run a small block Chevy has most likely had this problem. First make sure you have a very good engine ground. If that doesn't fix it buy a new starter. Not a rebuilt one. Every time you try to start it it is hard on the rotating assembly and eventually it just wares out. Good Luck. |
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