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Old 08-16-2010, 03:37 PM
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How To Add Horse Power To A 216

i HAVE A 49 CHEVY TRUCK WITH AN ORIGINAL 216 INLINE 6 OF COURSE THE FIRST THOUGHT WAS TO SWAP IT FOR A SMALL BLOCK BUT i'VE BEEN THINKING ABOUT IT AND REALLY WANT TO KEEP IT AND ADD SOME HORSEPOWER TO KEEP SOME WHAY ORIGNAL IS IT WORTH THE TROUBLE TO DO THAT i ALSO HAVE ACCESS TO A 260 INLINE 6 HOW EASY IS IT TO ADD SOME TOURQUE TO THE 216 HELP......

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Old 08-16-2010, 04:03 PM
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IIRC, the later inline 6's have more main bearings than the earlier models. I'd swap in a later model 6 if you want to stick with the 6 cyl. As for a v8, you don't have to do the normal sbc rout, you could drop an ls1 or lt1 in it.
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Old 08-16-2010, 04:23 PM
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The 194,230,250, and 292 all have 7 mains, the GMC engines all have 4, but it'd take way more stress than you're putting on them to break em'
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Old 08-16-2010, 05:11 PM
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you will be surprised what a 292 will do for that truck!
Put a 2bbl holley on it and some headers,just with these 2 mods it'll have some good go!
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Old 08-17-2010, 02:50 PM
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inline six

Thanks guys Ithink I will definetly lean towards the 292 and thanks for the advice and web links.
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Old 08-17-2010, 02:54 PM
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292 with a junkyard turbo system can give you more than enough power- especially if you do a mild rebuild.
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Old 08-18-2010, 06:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhion1013@yahoo.com
thanks for the advice and web links.
You're welcome.

Don't forget to use the search function- there have been a lot of threads on inlines.
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Old 08-18-2010, 07:36 AM
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E Z torque addition

If you'd like to stay with the stock configuration, then look to your rear end. Read, or calculate the differential ratio, and increase it a bit. If you have a 2.47 to 1, then go for a 2.80 to 1. This will enable your vehicle to put more grunt on the pavement, and not overwork or overstress any of the drivetrain parts. You will have to install a new speedo gear, or just tape a conversion graph on your dash, or memorize the difference in between the real speed and the speedometer. Gas mileage will drop a bit, but then if you put in a suped up engine, it will also. A used gearset wil go for under $100, and the shim kit will be about the same.

I've upgraded a number of Ford Mustangs from the stock 3.08 to 1 to a 3.55 to 1, with phenominal results. For 3 years I ran an 85F150 300 6cyl 1V 5sp. I upgraded the diff. from a 2.47 to a 3.55. and upgraded the suspension so I could pull the sin off the gates of hell. I used it for for heavy hauling, so I didn't mind the speedo and lower top end speed.

I believe a minor increase in the rear end ratio will give you very good results for an increase in the torque, at a great price.
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Old 08-23-2010, 01:25 AM
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rear end

Thanks for the rear end info that will help out a lot I do not want to be replacing that because it wont handle the power.
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Old 08-23-2010, 01:27 AM
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machine shop

Even though the engine runs what should I have the machine shop do to it to start the horespower project please advice.
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Old 08-23-2010, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhion1013@yahoo.com
Even though the engine runs what should I have the machine shop do to it to start the horespower project please advice.
Before you even get to the machine shop, you should do a vacuum test, and a leak down or at least a compression test to see what the general condition of the engine is. This will tell you if the head gasket is blown, or if the rings or valves are leaky.

The more work you do the more money you'll save- machine shops will be charging you the shop's rate whether they're doing work that you could have done (unbolting brackets, taking the head apart, etc.) or work that only they can do.

From that point, you will want the head and block castings to be checked for cracks and squareness of the decks and alignment of the main bores.

They will be able (if you're not able to do the measurements) to determine the condition of the pistons and bores, along w/the crank's ability to be turned undersize. One 'problem' you'll face is finding a shop that can do poured bearings.

Insert bearings and the high pressure oiling system is why the later engines are a better choice for rebuilding/hotrodding. Be sure you are getting a 235 that has inserts, though (Blue Flame) and not a 235 from a heavy truck that had babbitt bearings. Or better yet, go w/a larger or newer engine than the 235. Even the 230 (began about '65 or so) would be a much better engine, IMO.
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:42 AM
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machine shop

Thanks Cobalt327 this is very helpful I appreciate the advice.
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:38 AM
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add fuel injection and a turbo to your current engine.

7 to 8 psi of boost will add 50% more hp and torque.

check out megasquirt efi systems.

first add the efi then add the turbo.
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Old 08-25-2010, 03:54 PM
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The 216 engine has basically "splash" lubrication. While there are shops that will convert the 216 to pressure lube and insert bearings, there are far better ways to go about it, IMO.

The 216 is better left OEM and driven sedately, or a larger displacement, 7 main bearing, pressure lubed, GM inline six used instead.
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