[lakynderrick]

I have a few dents to fix on this truck. Also have to paint new fender flares. Then I plan on spotting/blending in the base on the repaired areas.
A plastic painted molding then goes on (like on the drivers side pic). I planned on keeping all my repairs below the molding. And using the area behind the molding as a place to stop and start my clear blend.

But as you can see at the front of the door and on the fender I will be above the molding. Can I use a blending agent and blend the clear in the creased area on the door and fender ? I hate to clear the entire door and fender.

Any help would be appreciated I've painted entire panels and blended base but never done a clear blend before.

[milo]

You can back tape by rolling 2 inch tape back on it'self to form a sticky side out roll or use door apature foam tape on that upper strong bodyline and clear up to it. You'll have a easy time since it's so low on the panel...

check it-> Repair and Paint within body lines

[mafiacustomz]

i watch them do this on trucks tv when the body work is done wet sand about a foot past the fix thin starting with the base reduce like the paint states 50/50 i think mix more thin what you need spray the base the add 15% more reducer spray and 15% more reducer so it blends into the old color and clear check online to make sure

[lakynderrick]

So do you think I should tape down in the groove the full length of the door?

[milo]

just barely under to top sharp line unless the moulding covers it but looks like it got sanded up high in that one spot

[lakynderrick]

So far I have kept all sanding below that body line. I taped off dead center where the plastic molding goes and sanded to that tape. Except at the front of the door and fender I had to go higher there because of a couple of dents.
But I haven't sanded anywhere above that body line.

Will I have to use a blending agent?

[lakynderrick]

What if I mask right where I did before under the molding where scuffed area is. Then at the front of the door and fender where I had to sand higher backmask like you said right at the top edge of the hard body line.

Then I would have about a 3 inch area to blend the clear right under the 2500 emblem? The rest would be hidden under the molding.

I"m just throwing stuff out there and have never done this, so tell me if I'm wrong. I just want to do what is easiest and will yield a good finished product.

Thanks

[swvalcon]

I've done a lot of these trucks to that body line including my own. you can back tape on the line and I've also run fine line tape on the line and masked above it bending color and then clear only to tape line. Leaves a very small hard line but after you buff hard line its almost impossible to see.

[lakynderrick]

I thought about using an intercoat clear first on the areas where I will spot in my base coat. Think this is overkill? Since the color is a pewter metallic I thought it might help. And I might use it to blend with also if I need to.

What ya'll think?

[swvalcon]

My one ton is pewter and I repaired the rear fender behind the rear wheel and backtaped the top of the body line. Shot a few coats of color staying as far as I could below the line then cleared to the body line let it set a few days and buffed. Couldnt tell it was touched. Its been almost 10 years now the truck is a 2001 and I had to do it about 6 months after I got it.

[lakynderrick]

As I spray clear to the tape, should I try not to lay it on as heavy close to the tape(feather it out)?

[swvalcon]

Yes i never try to prime up to the tape line because you will see the color of your primer at tape line. I try to blend color at the lower edge of the reverse curve or in the middle of it. Then when you clear don't use any more than necessary and stay away from the tape line as much as possible until your last coat go right up to it. Then after it is good and dry sand lightly very lightly over the tape line more of a scuff than a sand then lightly hit with a buffer.

[lakynderrick]

Thanks. I only plan on spot priming the repaired areas. Spotting in the base (if it blends good), and then clearing.