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Old 05-29-2006, 08:58 AM
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How to build a 383 stroker

Ok guys, I'm sorta new at this engine stuff. I'd like to know ANYTHING and EVERYTHING about building a 377 or 383 stroker SBC, parts that need to be used, block clearencing, everything that needs to be done. I want to build one up as a spare engine for my truck if my 305E V6 ever blows up. (I doubt it will ). From what I have read, some people say it's easy, others say its not. Thanks for the help. BTW if you can, include the costs of parts.
Jake

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Old 05-29-2006, 12:10 PM
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If you're building from scratch why not just go with a 400? You dont have to worry about clearancing the block and you get an extra 17 cubes from the additional .125" diameter bore as well.
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Old 05-29-2006, 01:46 PM
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If I could find a cheap 400, I'd buy it and rebuild it. But they aren't very common up here.
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Old 05-29-2006, 07:21 PM
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If you can find a 400 I would rebuild that over a 350 or a 383. Don't let anyone tell you the 400 has cooling problems. It has to do with a steam hole in the head, do a google search and you can find out all about it. Remember a 2 bolt 400 is actually stronger than a 4 bolt 400.

If your going to build a 383 I would strongly suggest getting a kit with the crank, 5.7" rods, and pistons. If you get the kit you won't have to worry about clearances, machining the crank and grinding off rod bolts. And most of the new 383 kits are internally balanced. I bought mine at CNC Motorsports, they have great prices and lots of options, they also balance rotating assemblies.

Jordon
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Old 05-29-2006, 07:42 PM
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The cheapest recipe is a 350 block (bored .030), 400 crank (with the main journals turned down to 350 size), 400 rods, and 350 pistons.

I agree with the above suggestions about a 400, but they are getting more and more expensive. The 383 is a step up and 350 blocks are all over the place. I bought a new SCAT 383 crank instead of finding a 400 crankand avoided machining costs.

Costs can vary widely, but you can figure on $75-$100 for a block. The SCAT crank was about $150 (plus shipping). There are too many different 350 pistons available...a WAG would be $150-$350. Machining costs also vary depending what you have done. Boring is about $10 per cylinder. You will also want new cam bearings and freeze plugs...guesstimate $75. If the block is a fudball, you will need to have the block cleaned.

Then figure in a 400 balancer, 400 flexplate/flywheel, timing set, tin works, heads, intake, cam, lifters, gaskets...and it goes on and on.
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Old 05-29-2006, 07:42 PM
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Huh, thats odd XXLLMM4. I read that even thought the kits WERE internally balanced, the crank still needs to be externally balanced. I also read that you HAVE to grind the block to clear the crank, but maybe not. Maybe I ought to start looking around for a 400 SBC.
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Old 05-29-2006, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxllmm4
If you can find a 400 I would rebuild that over a 350 or a 383. Don't let anyone tell you the 400 has cooling problems. It has to do with a steam hole in the head, do a google search and you can find out all about it. Remember a 2 bolt 400 is actually stronger than a 4 bolt 400.

If your going to build a 383 I would strongly suggest getting a kit with the crank, 5.7" rods, and pistons. If you get the kit you won't have to worry about clearances, machining the crank and grinding off rod bolts. And most of the new 383 kits are internally balanced. I bought mine at CNC Motorsports, they have great prices and lots of options, they also balance rotating assemblies.

Jordon
Yes, even with the kits, you will have to clearance the pan rails. The Eagle SIR 5.7 rods, that I used, did not require grinding on the rods to clear the cam. They used ARP cap screws and no clearance problems.

Internal balancing will cost you extra, even if the crank is advertised as "internal balance". Your machine shop will take care of this balancing part.
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Old 05-29-2006, 09:00 PM
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Well Just to add to what others are saying and to make it clearer. A 383 is a 350 block +.030 over with a 3.750 in. stroke crank(400 crank). and If I remember right, a 377 is the standard bore 350 block (4.000 in.) with the 400 crank. Or the 377 i think is more known as a destroked 400(400 block with 350 crank(3.480in. stroke)) I have no idea why you would do that though...sacrifice the 23 cubes to make the engine rev higher or faster or some bull like that....keep it a 400 if you get one - they have mad amounts of torque.

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Old 05-29-2006, 09:09 PM
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you can also go the easy and buy a 383 kit, (pistons, crank, rods, flexplate, balancer, rings, bearings, already balanced) if you look on the internet you can get them for about 900 bucks... when i did mine the area of the block where the oilpan bolts up needed to be clearanced for the larger counterweights, its easy to do by yourself, also the bottom of the cyls needed to be ground down a bit.
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Old 05-29-2006, 10:18 PM
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Can you do anything decent with a 305 block? I have an 86 305HO out of an 86 Monte Carlo SS. I have a TPI setup from a Camaro I bought to get rid of the carburetor. It is all going on a glass 34 Ford coupe... I don't car if it is a strip eater but I do want it to be reasonably quick and to sound good.

Any suggestions? (Other than getting another engine. I can always do that down the road. I want to fix what I have for now jsut to get the car on the road.)

Thanks,
Dale
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Old 05-29-2006, 10:26 PM
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i remmember the 400. it was a prize for a street roller. i have heard of a combo using mostly fatcatory parts(the way i like).vortec top end on a 268xe cammy. get some town gears like a 3.08-3.55 w/ 60's series rubber . it sounds like alot of fun to me. tonight i dream of women....400cu" women
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Old 05-29-2006, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAKE 68 GMC
Huh, thats odd XXLLMM4. I read that even thought the kits WERE internally balanced, the crank still needs to be externally balanced.
No...
Internally balanced kits use a standard 350 damper & flexplate. Otherwise known as "neutral" balance damper & flexplate.

http://www.gofaststuff.com/kits.html

Last edited by 71C10; 05-29-2006 at 11:31 PM.
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Old 05-29-2006, 10:57 PM
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I just built my 383 this past summer. With Scat 5.7" forged rods and ARP cap screws it required no grinding of the pan rails, in-fact it wasn't even close.

There are positives and negatives to the 377 but in a truck I would defiantly go with the 400. You can rev the piss out of a 377. But with a heavy truck and street driving I think the 400 would be the choice.
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Old 05-30-2006, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Songman
Can you do anything decent with a 305 block? I have an 86 305HO out of an 86 Monte Carlo SS. I have a TPI setup from a Camaro I bought to get rid of the carburetor. It is all going on a glass 34 Ford coupe... I don't car if it is a strip eater but I do want it to be reasonably quick and to sound good.

Any suggestions? (Other than getting another engine. I can always do that down the road. I want to fix what I have for now jsut to get the car on the road.)

Thanks,
Dale
welcome to the site

They can be made to run fairly well, but will always be 50 hp behind a 355 cube.

Sounding good cam-wise is a tricky situation with the fuelie. Check into the Camaro hop up stuff and see what was done over the years.

Build the 305 mildly with the fuelie and OD trans, and enjoy the better gas mileage with the upcoming $4 gallon fuel in a year or two.
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Old 05-30-2006, 12:34 PM
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beause there are 2 different 377's one a destroked 400 with big ports and fast revving rpms and the other a stroked 350 just like a 383 with smaller ports and a slower working engine able to pull down small buildings,,as with any engine build you first have to decide what it is going to be used for then build a motor for that purpose being honest with yourself as you go so you don't get caught between two different engines and end up with something you or no one else can use.just like building a house,make plans first.
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