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Old 08-29-2010, 09:26 PM
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How to build the perfect 383

Hey there, I'm new to this site and have read plenty of threads regarding this topic. I just want to confirm I have it all right. This is a 90 % street car. I have a budget, and all these parts fall into my budget. I want it to be as perfectly matched as possible. I pressume the car is between 3300-3500lbs. Already have 26 inch rear tyres and 3.7 lsd nine inch head. Th350 with 2800 stall. I won't be changing these as it falls out of budget. Engine plan is 383 shortblock, 350 30 over with basic scat stroker kit (flattops etc) Cam I am looking at is a voodoo solid flat tappit 241/259 at 0.050 , 0.520 and .540 lift at 0.050. LSA 110. 2600-6800rpm. AFR 195 Heads. advertised flow at 0.500 is 275cfm/213cfm exh. 65cc chambers ( I know there is a newer model but I can't afford it in my budget) 1.6 rockers. RPM Intake manifold gasket matched. 750 carb, unsure to mech/vac secondaries. Ignition will use a msd 6al bo but unsure to distributor yet. This car will be raced but seldom so is this the engine I am after. A perfectly matched 383 to my car/rear end that is driveable in the weekend and still raceable when required. Thank you

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Old 08-29-2010, 09:47 PM
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Sounds like a good plan to me, should make you quite happy, somewhere near 500-ish hp.

You may want to consider a D-dish piston as the compression ratio with flat tops, 65cc head and zero decked block(you want that for good quench) will be in the 11-1 area. Can be done but you have to be careful with the tune. If you are going to run pump gas run the D-dish for 9.8-10 to 1. If you don't already have the heads a 70-72cc version would be perfect with the flat tops unless you want the compression.

Glad to see you did your homework with the search function, this topic has been about beaten to death. You have a good solid plan. I wouldn't change anything except maybe the converter(down the road, true 3200-3500 stall tight 10" converter).
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Old 08-29-2010, 11:55 PM
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Well, somebody has to play the Devil's advocate.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by funho57
3.7 lsd nine inch head.
Not enough gear for the cam.

Quote:
Originally Posted by funho57
Th350 with 2800 stall
Not enough stall for the cam.

Quote:
Originally Posted by funho57
solid flat tappet
Strongly suggest going with a roller tappet cam. Everything must be perfect in order for a flat tappet cam to survive with today's oil formulations. I have to assume the authorities in NZ have followed the rest of the world in changing formulations to drop out extreme pressure lubricants that used to protect flat tappet parts. If you insist on running a flat tappet, pay attention to these deal killers....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks

Quote:
Originally Posted by funho57
2600-6800rpm.
I don't know where these figures came from, but a cam with the timing you're listing here is not going to make power in this range, it will be more like 3400-7000, no matter what Lunati says. Not only that, there is no cam out there that has a range of 4200 rpm's. Lunati is blowin' smoke just to sell cams in my opinion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by funho57
1.6 rockers.
Now you're really intent on killing the lifters. A flat tappet cam has a tough enough time trying not to wipe a lifter with 1.5 rockers, much less trying to deal with 1.6 rockers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by funho57
RPM Intake manifold gasket matched.
Never mind trying to gasket match. You'll end up with a section-through port looking like an Anaconda that swallowed a pig and the increased volume at that point will flow down flow enough to drop fuel out of suspension. Do some study of fluid dynamics and you'll find that the lion's share of flow goes right down the middle of the pipe anyway.


Quote:
Originally Posted by funho57
unsure to mech/vac secondaries.
Under 3000, vacuum secondaries. Over 3000 or manual transmission, double pumper.

Quote:
Originally Posted by funho57
unsure to distributor yet.
Whatever distributor you use, recurve it for 18-20 degrees initial at the crank and total initial/centrifugal of 34 degrees all in by 2800 or so if you follow the plan you have laid out. This according to instructions on Barry Grant's site.

Quote:
Originally Posted by funho57
A perfectly matched 383 to my car/rear end
Ummm, I don't think so, but whatever.
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Old 08-30-2010, 12:20 AM
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I just noticed something about the cam numbers I missed earlier, I thought I read 241/249 duration, which would be ok but even that much split is probably too much with the AFR head.

The 259 exhaust duration is totally too much with the good exhaust flow of the AFR head unless you were planning on spraying about 300 hp nitrous and needed the added exhaust duration.

I've run 1.6 rockers on almost all the SBC's I do and don't have a problem with wear, but I do solid lifters with the oil hole in the face and know to use the correct oils and additives. I don't do hydraulic anything for performance, thats girly or daily driver/commuter car stuff.

TechInspector, a 383 when compared to a 350 will make the stall higher, the cam seem smaller, and be more tolerant of the less than ideal gear, especially with a short 26" tire.

If the cam was a solid lifter grind 241/249 @ .050" it will work out well.
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Old 08-30-2010, 12:26 AM
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sorry guys, it is 249 exhaust duration. Bad typo sorry. 241/249. voodoo p/n 60141 . Thanks Techinspecter. I need a bit of honesty. I thought I had it all sorted. More stall, more gear, starting to sound less streetable. Yes, the NZ Oils etc are the same as you guys over there. Lacking whats needed. I was only looking at solid flat tappit because of budget, I can afford to go roller but being over here Im looking at nearly 2000NZ dollars (1400us) for cam/lifters) due to freight etc, and then ignition and other items would have to be downgraded. I honestly thought I had a well planned out engine to match what I had, but obviously I need to do some more reading on here.
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Old 08-30-2010, 12:32 AM
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cam size

I have read on this site that "solid flat tappit" cams duration is equiallant to hydraulic with 8 degrees more duration. That being said, with the extra cubes eating up the duration I thought the 241/249* would behave more like a 230/236 style cam? And pressume the 3.7/2500 would be fine. Please let me know If I am mistaken. Cam is an off the shelf item so more than llikely the numbers are based on a 350ci?
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Old 08-30-2010, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funho57
I was only looking at solid flat tappit because of budget
Yeah, it looks cheap before you buy it, but wait until you roach a lifter and have to tear the complete motor down to clean out all the shrapnel, buy another cam and lifters along with all the gaskets, re-do the installation and sit on pins and needles waiting for it to happen again. I am OUT on that program.

I don't know if it's illegal or not, but what if someone here in the States used your money to buy a Howards retro roller for you and shipped it to you like it was a gift?
http://www.competitionproducts.com/C...products/1654/
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Old 08-30-2010, 12:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
TechInspector, a 383 when compared to a 350 will make the stall higher, the cam seem smaller, and be more tolerant of the less than ideal gear, especially with a short 26" tire.

If the cam was a solid lifter grind 241/249 @ .050" it will work out well.
I yield to your knowledge Eric, thanks buddy.
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Old 08-30-2010, 07:24 AM
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It all looks pretty well matched to me, I would get some good lifters with "face oiling" or "direct lube" (a hole in the face). They make a HUGE difference on durability.
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Old 08-30-2010, 08:11 PM
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Thanks for all the input. So the cam isnt really as big asnit looks so everything should work out ok. "tech" yes getting somone over there to purchase a roller cam and send it as a gift would work as long as it was declared at under $500 would save me about $700us dollars. I've never been in a roller cammed motor so thats why I'm not a fan yet. No gasket porting, fine by me saves time/money. Recurve 18-20 initial noted so Iwon't forget that. I've aready bout the diff head, and I based that on the cam by taking away 8 degrees for being solid (lost to lash) and 383 eating a few cubes, making it similar to 230/236ish and found a cam that size and bout gearing and stall they recomended for that size cam. I chose the afr's due to being average port sizefor 383 to keep velocity high but had high flow, which gives me option later in life of porting if things start getting boring. As long as its streetable and enough power to have some fun on the track once or twice a year I'm happy. If any parts don't belong to the build I'll change them to suit. Now, with roller cams, how do they compare to flat tappits? For example, a f/t with 235/240 duration and a retro roler with 235/240 do they behave similar? stalls the same etc? Or do rollers behave like a smaller f/t meaning I can go bigger with a roller? Is the roller cam more for durability rather than a power upgrade?
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Old 08-30-2010, 08:12 PM
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"turbo" when you mean good lifters, are there differences in design with the solids? The voodoo solid cam kits are cheap. Are there lifters just basic design?
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Old 08-30-2010, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funho57
"turbo" when you mean good lifters, are there differences in design with the solids? The voodoo solid cam kits are cheap. Are there lifters just basic design?
The Lunati lifters in the VooDoo kits are standard, you will have to ask for the "direct lube" or "face oiling"(same thing, different companies use different names, its a laser or EDM machined oil hole in the face). I won't run a solid without them unless it is a real mild old school type like the old 30-30 Z28 grind, which I consider worthless anyway compared to modern stuff..
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Old 08-30-2010, 10:28 PM
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You can see the lube hole in the lifter Pic here>> http://www.competitionproducts.com/C...info/651080DL/ & here http://www.competitionproducts.com/I...tinfo/SO202-H/
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