How can I make carbon fiber - Page 3 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Interior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #31 (permalink)  
Old 01-11-2005, 09:51 AM
blndweasel's Avatar
paints everything flat black
 

Last journal entry: September 2005 - Current
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 363
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
question from hotrodders member... posted here because it has useful info on wet layp composite work.

100% wet layup. No vacuum bags here. I sanded the tank down with 150 grit, sprayed it black with rustoleum rattle can paint, roughed up the surface just a little bit more, then layed down a thin layer of thin epoxy resin, let the resin set up (until it reached the latter end of its pot life) then just layed the fiber sheet on top, and the epoxy below will act like a glue. You can basically let this fiber dry for up to an hour or more, getting the epoxy "glue" underneath to set up real good. At that point, you can laminate the outer surface with more THIN epoxy resin. On my gas tank, since I had blending patterns of carbon fiber and carbon/kevlar, it took me over five or six laminates to get the surface smooth. I would recommend keeping it to one type of fiber though, and absolutely no more than three laminates on top.

The reason behind using thin epoxy resin is because of what I mentioned with the bubbles on the firewall. I used thick epoxy resin here, and when this stuff is in the pot mixed up it has the consistency of molasses. This is why bubbles get trapped in it so easily. The thin epoxy resin you have to let set up a little bit more in the pot before you apply it so it doesn't get all runny, but it allows bubbles to work their way out while its drying up.

A simple way of manipulating wet epoxy on the surface of the part is to use a clean, unused bondo scraper as sold at auto parts stores, the flexible plastic kind. You can use this like a spatula to manipulate the wet epoxy, and it shouldn't get caught on the fiber underneath.

You should get a feel for how much you can stretch a single piece of fabric before it begins to distort the pattern. I learned it through trial and error. The gas tank and body panels I did are relatively simple patterns, topologically. The firewall in my vette was much more complicated. I used four pieces of fabric to do this, namely, I split the entire project in half (bisected it) down the middle, and on both the left and right sides I first layed up a piece on the top half, making sure to cover the convolutions and indentations in the firewall upper half. Then I used a second piece on both the left and right sides to cover the large flat areas, making sure to keep the pattern clean because this is the most noticable aesthetic part of the firewall. Then, after cleaning up the ragged edges (some of this was done before the bottom pieces of fabric were layed up), using a dremel tool and sanding drums, also a structured tungsten carbide cutting bit (these things are worth the $15, they cut through dried carbon fiber like a hot knife through butter), I cut out excess material and did the final lamination.

In my case, I used thick epoxy resin on the firewall because I wanted as little seepage and running as possible. I think in hindsight this was a mistake, because when I went to polish this surface, tiny air bubbles existed right below the surface. Thin epoxy resin is harder to work with, produces thinner layers of laminate, but overall retains a more appealing look when it's said and done.

Good luck and let me know if you have any more questions.

Other info... Only sand between laminate layers if you've waited more than 2 hours since the last layer, or if you notice "clouding" in the resin (a result of moisture condensing on the surface of the drying epoxy)

Polish with increasing fineties of sandpaper, all the way up to 1500 or even 2000 grit, then polish with 3M rubbing compound, and finish with 3M finishing compound.

Apply UV sealant if you wish, but I prefer the raw epoxy surface. If you scratch it or leave a mark, just polish it again! Besides I'm not sure how well paint / clearcoat will apply to a polished epoxy surface.

I'm going to post this to hotrodders to hopefully avoid answering the same sorts of questions multiple times...

Cheers!

The blonde weasel

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #32 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2009, 12:44 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Greece
Posts: 1
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Hi there,
I know this is a buried thread but wanted to ask a relevant question.

If you manufacture a carbon fiber hood with bagging process using a mold from the current hood, first how are you supposed to form the bottom side of the hood since the mold only takes care of the upper side and secondly how can you attach hinges and supporting frame to the molded hood?

Also how many layers do you think are needed?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #33 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2009, 10:04 AM
OneMoreTime's Avatar
Hotrodders.com moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Health and safety in the shop or garage
Last journal entry: Yard Dog pic
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Age: 70
Posts: 7,431
Wiki Edits: 3

Thanks: 59
Thanked 163 Times in 152 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mxa055
Hi there,
I know this is a buried thread but wanted to ask a relevant question.

If you manufacture a carbon fiber hood with bagging process using a mold from the current hood, first how are you supposed to form the bottom side of the hood since the mold only takes care of the upper side and secondly how can you attach hinges and supporting frame to the molded hood?

Also how many layers do you think are needed?


Actually it will take 2 molds..one for the hood itself and a mold for the underside structure..then the two are mated and bonded..the attachment points are reinforced and in the underside structure to provide points to attach the hinges and hood latch mechanism..

At least that is the way I would go about it..

Sam
__________________
I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #34 (permalink)  
Old 06-26-2009, 06:02 PM
Steven
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Garland, Tx
Age: 24
Posts: 30
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
patterntek.com is the website i believe... they actually dip whatever u have in CF. It looks great and I am actually wanting them to do my car.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #35 (permalink)  
Old 06-27-2009, 06:24 AM
DanTwoLakes's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Contact adhesive
Last journal entry: 49 Packard
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Lake Tomahawk, Wisconsin
Age: 64
Posts: 5,945
Wiki Edits: 22

Thanks: 0
Thanked 153 Times in 140 Posts
Here you go: CLICK HERE
__________________
__________________________________

No one lives forever, the trick is creating something that will.
__________________________________
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #36 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2009, 12:20 PM
Steven
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Garland, Tx
Age: 24
Posts: 30
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thank You for finding it Dan.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 11:26 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 2
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Being in florida, Ive seen the patterntek stuff up close. Awesome stuff. A little pricey but really what do you compare it to.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2009, 10:41 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Massillon, OH
Posts: 1
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I ran across this thread a few years ago.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=660756

The guy goes into pretty good detail on reproducing all the body panels of his Mustang in carbon fiber.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Interior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:39 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.