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Old 03-23-2007, 11:32 PM
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how to cross brace a 59 apache?

Hey all... Getting along with work on my cab. Placed the cab back on the frame to aid in holding proper shape. Working on the passenger side, toe board is out and I'm working towards replacing much of the lower front door pillar.

Is there a standard bracing setup for cabs, that uses minimal bracing but gives good rigidity. Like a certain Z pattern or something. I realize I'm trying to prevent downward movement of the cab, but also don't want to end up with any twist that rears its' ugly head later.

I plan on using half inch square tube.

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Old 03-24-2007, 08:03 AM
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There is one thing that worries me about your plan, IS IT IN ALIGNMENT? Is the cab bolted down on the body mounts with the door fit when this cross bracing is welded in? THAT is the reason you want to weld in the cross braces, to KEEP IT IN ALIGNMENT. If you START OUT with the cab kittywampas and weld up some braces and then repair the floor and door jamb it will permanetly be kittywampas.

So be sure your cab is all aligned and bolted down to the frame that is on level jackstands OR on it's wheels prior to welding in any braces.

On the braces, are they even needed. Unless you are really cutting out some structure, (and the toe boards, aren't "structure") there is no reason to cross brace it anyway. If the cab is bolted down to the frame and you fit the door now and then during any repairs there is no big deal.

If you do weld in cross braces, BE SURE you can bolt the door on and trial fit it. If you can't, you really are playing with fire.

Brian
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Old 03-24-2007, 12:01 PM
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cab sheet metal repair

Thanks for chiming in...
The passenger side toe board is out. Then I discovered that the lower inner and lower outer cowl and the lower door hinge needed to be addressed. Each part sort of lead to the next part of exposure of rust thru. Once I cut thru the lower pillar, the front passenger side of the cab will be unsupported in that corner. Considering that the driver side toe board is also compromised, I think that has a potential for transferring weight downward. I just want to maintain a margin of structural integrity that may or may not be an issue as you say, but if it does sag I will be correcting that along with my original goal of replacing the toe board, inner/outer lower cowl & lower door hinge.

thanks again for your help.
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Old 03-24-2007, 07:21 PM
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Bill, that much rot, I would say cross brace it, you just can't go wrong. Just tack weld half inch tubing across the door opening from corner to corner in an "X". But be sure the door fits well before you weld anything in. You could hang the door, be sure it fits well, weld in the braces THEN remove the door. Do your repairs and hand the door again being sure everything is still cool, then remove the braces.

Brian
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