How do '40 chevy coupe running boards bolt on? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2006, 02:11 PM
RodFather's Avatar
I smell like a hotrod!
 

Last journal entry: windshield
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bella Vista,AR
Age: 35
Posts: 264
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
How do '40 chevy coupe running boards bolt on?

I am in the process of building a car that someone started....I am thinking that the frame had some kind of threaded bung so that you could attatch the running board....is that right? My frame is smooth (and painted), and I can't find where the running boards bolt on.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2006, 02:33 PM
Marc Bitler's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Derby, KS
Age: 70
Posts: 51
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rodfather,

I also have a 40 business coupe I am building and the runningboards don't attach to the frame. Along the sides of your body, there should be three brackets that are attached to the inside rocker panels with a captive nut in them. They also attach to the bottom of the front fender. I bought an original car and the floors and rockers were so badly cancered that the attach brackets were gone. I had a devil of a time figuring out where, and how they attached. If you have a Chev's of the 40's catalog, they have an illustration that shows how they attach.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2006, 02:36 PM
RodFather's Avatar
I smell like a hotrod!
 

Last journal entry: windshield
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bella Vista,AR
Age: 35
Posts: 264
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I'll check the chevs of the 40 catalog...I have new rocker panels, and did not see a captive nut. I have an idea now of what to do.

Thanks,
Brina
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2006, 02:43 PM
Marc Bitler's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Derby, KS
Age: 70
Posts: 51
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The new rockers won't have the brackets on them. They are purchased separately and have to be welded in place. If you bought new rockers, you probably bought outer and inner rockers. The brackets will attach to the inner rocker panel. They're a bit of fun to put in..........may be not so bad for you if you've done it before, but when I did mine, I hadn't.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2006, 02:49 PM
RodFather's Avatar
I smell like a hotrod!
 

Last journal entry: windshield
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bella Vista,AR
Age: 35
Posts: 264
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
The inner, and outer rockers were put on before I bought the car. The brakcets were never installed. I'll mount the board to the fenders and weld a bung in place. That should fix my problem.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2006, 02:58 PM
Marc Bitler's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Derby, KS
Age: 70
Posts: 51
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Sounds like a plan. I just finished wiring my car, and installing the heat/ac, and fired her for the first time last weekend. Great feeling when things work like they're supposed to. She'll even pull herself.

I had my boards blasted a while back and POR-15'ed them and, oddly enough, just this last week, I was trying them on to see if they fit. I was a bit apprehensive but the brackets were where they were supposed to be. How that happened, I'll never know. Good luck.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2006, 03:00 PM
RodFather's Avatar
I smell like a hotrod!
 

Last journal entry: windshield
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bella Vista,AR
Age: 35
Posts: 264
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks, I too have drove my car around the neighborhood last week for the first time. Now it's all the small things.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2006, 03:08 PM
Marc Bitler's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Derby, KS
Age: 70
Posts: 51
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I have done all the work on my car, except for the exhaust. I've never liked messing with that, and there are people who are masters at that, and I'll leave it to them. I think the most time consuming project I've had is putting in the electric windows. I eliminated the door vent windows and am putting in one piece windows. Have had problems getting it all to work, mostly getting the tracks square to the channels. Once I get them finished, and the door controls mounted, it's ready to final prime and block, getting it ready for paint. Maybe someday. I've been about 3 years working on it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 10-13-2006, 03:12 PM
RodFather's Avatar
I smell like a hotrod!
 

Last journal entry: windshield
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Bella Vista,AR
Age: 35
Posts: 264
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Yeah I have aways before I'm finished. This is an old pic. My glass is in, and I have Torq Thrust on it.
chopped, shaved, suicide doors, air ride.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	'40.jpg
Views:	107
Size:	39.8 KB
ID:	15524  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 10-14-2006, 06:49 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: linden, mi
Posts: 8
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
there are brackets that bolt to the frame and then to the bottom running boards. They also bolt to the fenders.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 10-15-2006, 12:50 PM
Marc Bitler's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Derby, KS
Age: 70
Posts: 51
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Dant,
I read your post and had to go back out and look at my car. It doesn't have any mounts to the frame. My boards have the three brackets that bolt to the bottom of the boards. These three brackets bolt to captive nut brackets that weld to the inner rocker panels. The boards, as you said, also attach to the front fenders. In addition, there are about a dozen or so screws that attach thru the runningboard into the bottom of the rocker panel all down the side of the car. I don't know about all of the various bodies, but mine doesn't have any place for the rockers to bolt to the frame. It all bolts up okay, but personally, I don't think I'd want for a 200 lb. man to stand on them.

I have found that there was quite a few differences in the different bodies. According to Chev's of the 40's, one rocker panel fits all, but a fella I was going to sell my boards to (he had a convertible) told me that boards from a Master 85 coupe will only fit that car. He said he got his info from a 1940 parts manual he had, and there was another board for the other cars. A buddy of mine has a 1940 panel truck, and it's boards mount like mine do. The body is mounted on rubber, and the boards would have to move with the body, which they wouldn't if they mounted to the frame. I do know a lot of the old Fords' runningboards mounted to brackets that attach to the frame.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2006, 06:39 AM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 40 Chevy coupe
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NORTH CAROLINA
Posts: 26
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
That's a nice old pic Rodfather. I'm also working on a 40 chevy coupe and have all the same ideas as you have described yours. Anyway you can post some new pics? What type of air ride and rear link system did you use? I am also going to try the 1 pc glass without the vent. I talked to a guy this past weekend at the goodguys show in Charlotte about his power window unit with 1 pc of glass and he told me he had a rough time trying to get it to work because the front of the door curves in at the front. He told me a friend of his mounted the power unit to a piece of metal and then moved the metal around until the glass fit the channel and worked properly and then screwed the metal off to the door panel. Any pics of any or all would be great. Thanks.

Last edited by CHASINGJR; 11-04-2006 at 11:52 AM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2006, 07:28 AM
Bluepen's Avatar
Just a firefighter
 
Last wiki edit: How to title a hot rod
Last journal entry: New rear rollpan installed
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
Age: 57
Posts: 324
Wiki Edits: 2

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Rod Father
I know my '46 Panel is not the same as your coupe but the running boards mount in a similar way. The brackets come from under the body. You can see them in the pics.

http://hotrodders.com/gallery/showph...cat/500/page/2

http://hotrodders.com/gallery/showph...cat/500/page/2
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2006, 02:32 PM
Marc Bitler's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Derby, KS
Age: 70
Posts: 51
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
ChasingJR,

I've removed the vent wings on my 40 coupe also, and ran into the problem of the doors being "bent" right where the vent and the main window meet. The 37's thru 40's did that. What I did was cut both the outside and the inside panels of the door and straightened them as best I could, then welded them back together. The outside panel is the toughie, since you don't want to force it to the point you wrinkle the skin of the door. You won't be able to get it totally straight, but when you put the window "whiskers" in, they will cover the small amount of bend that is left in the sheetmetal. I didn't have too much trouble with my power units, but did have to screw the top of the vertical shaft to the inside of the door to pull it inward a bit. Mine work fine. Of course, you have to weld new channels in the front and rear of the door. You'll have to cut the old window frame to allow the new vertical channels to be at the extremes of the window opening. My kits said I wouldn't need side (vertical) channels, but that was BS. Windows would wobble, and you need a guide in to the window opening. My problem was getting the window lift channel perpendicular with the side channels. You'll have to weld bolts on the inside of the side channels and slot the door inner panel so you have adjustment of the side pieces in and out and fore and aft. Hope I haven't confused you.
Marc Bitler
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 11-04-2006, 03:11 PM
Registered User
 

Last journal entry: 40 Chevy coupe
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NORTH CAROLINA
Posts: 26
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Marc, thanks for the information. I still have this ahead of me and any info. I can get from someone who has already done it is helpful. The way you have explained it is clear. Thanks again and thank you RodFather for letting me get this info. on your thread.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Chevy 350 Crankshaft bolt removal 75gmck25 Engine 11 03-14-2008 06:27 AM
1940 Chevy Coupe CHASINGJR Introduce Yourself 9 11-10-2006 06:07 AM
'40 pontiac coupe gahi Hotrodding Basics 1 10-16-2004 04:52 PM
35 Chevy 3 Window Coupe paulm Body - Exterior 14 05-08-2003 12:37 PM
40 chevy coupe rpvette Body - Exterior 3 01-22-2003 05:02 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.