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Old 02-16-2006, 12:54 PM
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How do I hook up a C4 to column shift?

I have installed a 302 and C4 into my 1955 Customline. Any ideas how I can keep the original 2 speed column shifter and link it up to the C4? I have been told someone produces a kit for this purpose? I want to avoid a floor shift at all costs as it will be a kruiser!
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Old 02-16-2006, 03:31 PM
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You're going to need to modify the shift quadrant for three positions instead of two. Adjust linkage to that modification. The selecter display will of course only read Dr and L but the modification will allow you to feel second between the two positions.
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Old 02-17-2006, 11:12 AM
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Thanks for that tip. The other problem I have is that neither the gearbox or the car came with any shift rod linkage, which is why I was hoping there is a kit to mate the two. Otherwise I am left to start bending lengths of steel to link up the box in the vague hope that they will shift the gears! Is the c4 much different from the original 55 auto in the way it links up?
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Old 02-17-2006, 11:34 AM
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If you place the tranny in neutral and the shifter lever in neutral you should be pretty close to the right length for the shifter rod..might be a good idea to incorporate some means of adjustment in the linkage in case it is a wee bit "off" in length..Also you need to check that things work in the proper direction..that is when the selector says reverse the tranny is in reverse and of course the other way around..

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Old 02-17-2006, 12:08 PM
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It's the length of the arm on the column shift and trans that are important. As long as your rod has the column shifter pointer at park while the trans is in park you should be fine. The detents for the actual position aren't in the column shifter, but the trans.

One thing you could do is order a stick on quadrant from a hot rod shop and remove the stock one. That should line up close to the new positions. The stick on ones look nice, not like something just slapped on! You will want some kind of adjustment on the end of your steel rod. Don't use all thread, get a piece of cold rolled steel rod, 5/16" would be good, 3/8" better. I'd thread one of the ends and try to find an old shift rod with the adjustable end.

My old Rambler had an end with a smooth hole and a stud 90* to the hole. The rod was straight on the end and went through the hole. A nut on each side was used to adjust length. The other end had a 90* bend and mounted directly in the shift lever on the transmission. Either end can be adjustable -- both don't need to be.

A junkyard trip might score a similar rod from some other car, and it might even be long enough! Check everything that had a three speed manual on the column, and get both rods. One should be bendable to work.
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Old 02-17-2006, 02:20 PM
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This will solve the actual shift rod problem, let me work on the indicator and I will get back. You kept the downshift linkage from the 302/C4 didn't you?

LOKAR PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS-




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Old 02-17-2006, 02:37 PM
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Lokar also has a metal lever type......

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Old 02-18-2006, 06:51 PM
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I have a C-4 in my 55 and I used a trans from a truck or van as the arm is similar to the one in the fordomatic and I had the lengthen the shift rod a little and it works fine. Even though the original shift indicator is designed for a 2 speed park,reverse,neutral and drive are close and it will shift into second and low. If you have a trans from a car the shifter arm is easy to change but the valve body will have to be removed to get to the nut that holds the arm in. I also used a 78 and up neutral saftey switch that bolts to the side of the trans and hooked it up so it will start in park now and I can retain the back up lights. Jeff
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Old 02-19-2006, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junkyardjeff

I have a C-4 in my 55 and I used a trans from a truck or van as the arm is similar to the one in the fordomatic and I had the lengthen the shift rod a little and it works fine. Even though the original shift indicator is designed for a 2 speed park,reverse,neutral and drive are close and it will shift into second and low. If you have a trans from a car the shifter arm is easy to change but the valve body will have to be removed to get to the nut that holds the arm in. I also used a 78 and up neutral saftey switch that bolts to the side of the trans and hooked it up so it will start in park now and I can retain the back up lights.

Jeff
Thanks for sharing that Jeff. I have read posts that describe not being able to select L after the conversion. Your method sounds good. The only alternative would be to upgrade the shift indicator to a later COM, FMX or C4 vehicle. It might be close but still not look correct.
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