How do I make an extreamly shiney wood dash?? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Interior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 04-30-2003, 07:13 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Alabama
Posts: 606
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Post How do I make an extreamly shiney wood dash??

I just recently went to a car show and saw a car that had a wood dash with an extreamly shiney finish. It was the most beautiful thing I had ever seen. When I asked the owner how he did that he told me he bought it pre-maid and installed it that way.

Does anyone know how to duplicate this extreamly shiny beautiful finish on a piece of wood?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2003, 07:32 AM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,384
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Post

First thing is to build a stable wood base. Those burl wood finsihes are made from very thin (1/64" to 1/128" veneers) glued to stable wood base with a permanent hide or urethane glue. The veneers must then be further stablized by saturating the completely with a clear epoxy. You can get a penetrating "rotten wood" repair epoxy liquid at your home center. Once the wood is soaked in epoxy, then lay on a couple of coats of clear epoxy as a sanding base. Block sand the epoxy to a perfectly flat, flawless finish. Finally paint it with catalyzed clear urethane and polish that as you would a fine auto finish.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2003, 05:03 PM
Member
 

Last journal entry: JB's 37 Pickup
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Smoky Mountains
Age: 76
Posts: 2,358
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Post

Willys, I have been working some dash inserts for the past two weeks and am not having much fun yet. The wood is some exotic South American stuff that in its natural state is beautiful. Sawing, planeing, and sanding has been totally different. The chips and dust are obnoxious to say the least. I have been using a clear finish that has worked well for me in the past, but not having much luck on this wood.. I have to wait 24 hours between coats and am up to # 10. I even wet sanded with 600 trying to get a smoother finish. Now I'm to the point of wet sanding with 2000 and planning on spraying the last coat vice the old foam brush. I guess my question would be could I safely make the last coat catalyzed clear urethane?

Trees
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2003, 08:38 PM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,384
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Post

What wood is it? I just did a project with blood wood (looks just like it's name - the plank I got was a full 1.25" thick planed, 13" wide, and 6' long - HATED to cut it up!) and it was so full of oil that it clogged sand paper instantly. Is your wood very oily (heavy and cool to the touch)? If so, finishing it is a tough job. If your coating is not drying properly, you might want ot strip it and wash it very thoroughly with lacquer thinner to de-oil the top layer. Then your clear will dry and adhere properly.

Best finish for auto service is a clear epoxy resin. Go to Home Depot and find the stuff they sell for repairing rotted wood. It penetrates very well and hardens very hard which some clear epoxies don't do. A couple coats of this on properly de-oiled wood will sand very easily, won't shrink like varnishes inevitably will, and will accept urethane clear coat like a dream.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-02-2003, 02:57 AM
Member
 

Last journal entry: JB's 37 Pickup
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Smoky Mountains
Age: 76
Posts: 2,358
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Post

Willys, sounds like the same wood. My son is the wood man and he recommended it and had what I needed. Yes, I first thought it was oil soaked, but was a characteristic of the wood, not an application. It loaded up the mitre saw blade on the first cut and I had to clean it after each cut. Have not seen a bug or insect in the shop since!! Before I strip it down, I'll try shooting the clear just to see what will happen.

Thanks,
Trees
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 05-02-2003, 06:03 AM
Member
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Wexford, PA
Posts: 68
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

hotrodman, What you may have seen was a dash from Wabbits Wood Works. www.wabbitsww.com
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 05-02-2003, 06:07 AM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,384
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Post

Sounds good. No need to cause yourself more work than necessary. I understand the natives use that stuff as framing and deck wood 'cause NOTHING will attack it. Can you imagine a pool deck of blood wood?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 05-02-2003, 12:55 PM
Member
 

Last journal entry: JB's 37 Pickup
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Smoky Mountains
Age: 76
Posts: 2,358
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Post

Willys, if you did not leave the wood rough sawn, you could never stand up on it!!

Trees
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2003, 09:12 AM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,384
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Post

Yes it is a bit robust isn't it!
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2003, 06:02 PM
Jag Daddy's Avatar
British Style with USA Muscle
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Valencia, California
Age: 57
Posts: 1,078
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 7
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

Willys36, where did you get you wood? My 75 dash is cracking and lifting off the base wood. Jags use elm burl which is hard to find, I wonder if the epoxy you spoke of would reseat my venieer.

Thanks
Mark
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2003, 06:34 PM
Member
 

Last journal entry: JB's 37 Pickup
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Smoky Mountains
Age: 76
Posts: 2,358
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Post

Willys, I shot two pieces of my blood wood today with clear coat and in three hours, I installed the first piece!! Don't know why I never thought about doing this. Thanks for the tip!!

Trees
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2003, 06:51 PM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,384
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Post

I used a base wood of walnut and got my walnut burl veneer from a mail order outfit (Constantine's maybe - been about 10 years so don't recall which one). I glued the veneer on wiht white carpenter's glue with a layer of brown craft paper and pywood clamped on top. IT has held up fairly well but it has recently started to unlaminate too. I have been swabing a little yellow carpenter's glue behind the loose spots and taping it down. Works pretty well. I will be pulling my dash out for a new set of gauges and at that time I will redo the veneer as I described above w/ epoxy adhesives and sealers and catalyzed urethane finish.

On your jag, the new yellow glues are very good and should repair the lifted wood well. I am assuming the wood is still there, just cracked and lifting in spots like mine is. Just work some glue thoroughly behind the loose sopt and figure a way to apply pressure - tape on the edges, a 2x4 wedged between the seat and the bad spot on the dash, etc. If you do need replacement wood (just realize it is tough to get a match), try

.<a href="http://www.constantines.com/" target="_blank">Constantine's home page</a>

They claim to have the world's largest selection of veneers.

[ May 03, 2003: Message edited by: willys36@aol.com ]</p>
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2003, 09:13 PM
Jag Daddy's Avatar
British Style with USA Muscle
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Valencia, California
Age: 57
Posts: 1,078
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 7
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Post

Willys36:
Thanks man, what a cool site. They don't have my veneer but I'm going out looking for another Series 2 dash and I think I might try using either quited maple stained with a slight yellow tint, or that Kewzinga stuff looked cool too.

Thanks again
Mark
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2003, 09:42 PM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,384
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Post

I think elm is becoming extinct due to Dutch Elm Disease. I seem to recall that American chestnut is already extinct due to disease. My 2001 Constantine's catalog does have a couple of listings for elm burl,

Part #60S8, 15"x30" 4 piece book matched table top, $37.00.

Part #V22 Premium elm burl, $5.00/sq.ft.

They also list several other types of wood in fancy burls and crotches. Walnut burl would be a very nice substiture for elm.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 05-08-2003, 06:32 PM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,384
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Post

Trees; Here is the model train I made from bloodwood and pau amarillo. Is this the color of the stuff you are using?

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Interior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:58 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.