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Old 01-22-2003, 03:14 PM
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Post How do i "port" my own heads?

I dont know if that makes sense, i think that is when i make the intakes bigger to let more air in. I've heard that this will increase performance a lot, can anyone tell me how to do this yself, if its worth it, and what i will need? Thanks

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Old 01-22-2003, 03:34 PM
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run a search in the engine section on "porting", and read this:
yee ha

[ January 22, 2003: Message edited by: RedRocket ]</p>
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Old 01-22-2003, 05:29 PM
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Go to Amazsn and search for a book on doing it. They are currently available. You can buy porting kits from The Eastwood Company.
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Old 01-22-2003, 06:00 PM
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Buy a good porting kit, and like they sade you can get books on this but I would pratus on a junk head first this is something that takes time to do.
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Old 01-22-2003, 08:08 PM
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According to old Slanty, all you need is a Dremel tool. Buy two just in case...
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Old 01-23-2003, 04:34 PM
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[quote] According to old Slanty, all you need is a Dremel tool. Buy two just in case... <hr></blockquote>

Two dremels? Come on 4 Jaw, not everyone can port two heads at once like Slanty
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Old 01-23-2003, 09:24 PM
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I dunno if yall know, but Rubber is a newbie. but I wanted to lay on`em what i`ve read, bowl port them, in other words, remove the lip below the valves and clean up the area, this is all you need for a street engine, don`t try anything in the ports, if you do you stand to screw it up more than you help, also don`t try to remove bunches of metal, just smooth things out in the bowl, for a street machine that`s all you need. also be careful not to hit the valve seats, this is why it`s best to practice on a set of junk heads.
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Old 01-23-2003, 11:59 PM
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I'll just add that in the exhaust ports on a sbc the valve guide boss, is almost the entire width of the port so especially work on that on the exhaust side and widen the port slightly on the sides of the valve, just enough that you don't loose much flow going past the valve, you also want to make the outside of the port (cylinder wall side) flow a little easier than the other side because that's where you want to help the flow go to, to help it's natual flow, Below is my excellent and exagerated text drawing
Dots are background!
............................................
..Exhaust valve.............................
..---------...........-Most air and airflow.
......|.........-----...From here...........
......|......--.............................
-|--------|----------Inlet valve here----..
..|...|...-|................................
.|....|--...|...............................
|...-|.....|...............................
|-..|.....|...............................
.|....|....|................................

Probably you can make the roof (head on the block roof) of the port a _little bit_(1 or two millimeters) higher on the cylinder side to help this flow bias happen, that's my theory anyway and I could be totally wrong

[ January 24, 2003: Message edited by: nicefrog ]

[ January 24, 2003: Message edited by: nicefrog ]</p>
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Old 01-24-2003, 04:59 AM
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I agree with you frog. I dont have a flow bench, but I have read multiple times the raising the exhaust port slightly offers better exhaust flow on SBC. This is due to the fact that Exhaust coming out of the engine will stall, or reach maximum flow, quicker if it is made to turn the port corner more sharpely. By raising the port, the air has more area on the long side turn of the port.

On the intake side you can add flow with the same theory in mind. Air stalls as it rounds the corner on the floor of the intake port. If you can lower and smooth the turn radius and make it mor gradual, it will theoritically increase flow. I usually take about 1/8 inch off the top of the turn in the port with one straight cut. I then make a cut on each of the sharp edges left by the first. Then blend everything and clean it up with a sanding roll.

Chris

[ January 24, 2003: Message edited by: TurboS10 ]</p>
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Old 01-24-2003, 05:00 AM
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[ January 24, 2003: Message edited by: TurboS10 ]</p>
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Old 01-24-2003, 01:10 PM
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It's hard to race port with the dremel. But it can be used for a general polish and smooth the casting ridges on the ports. I do it this way bacause it's slow and hard to take off to much material. A race port will be something that only time will give you the experiance"blackart" but you need a understaning of fliud dynamics to do it well. Flow is NOT the what you should be aiming for. Quality of that flow and how well the fuel stays suspended in that flow will make or break a great port job.
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Old 01-24-2003, 01:11 PM
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It's hard to race port with the dremel. But it can be used for a general polish and smooth the casting ridges on the ports. I do it this way bacause it's slow and hard to take off to much material. A race port will be something that only time will give you the experience. It's not "blackart" but you need a understanding of fluid dynamics to do it well. Flow is NOT the what you should be aiming for. Quality of that flow and how well the fuel stays suspended in that flow will make or break a great port job.
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Old 01-24-2003, 06:18 PM
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Depends on the dremel. I used to have a Dremel Flexshaft porting tool. It worked as well as any die grinder, and I did not have to listen to a compressor running. Of course that thing runs about $250.

Chris
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Old 01-25-2003, 04:19 AM
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Turbo, just to clear up my post, I ment take a little more from one side than the other, but for sure take more than a couple of millimeters off the roof, you'll know by feeling the curve of the roof with your fingers when it's got the right shape, Turbo I saw some pictures you posted of a port, I took some of one I did a couple of days ago but I havn't finished the film yet, I'll post it when I do. About the dremel, I used to use a flex shaft dremel for the scary stuff where you don't need to take much metal like the radius near the exhaust valve seat, now I just use flap type sanding roll, still the dremel can be usefull for little things that are just a bit difficult to reach with a bigger grinder, I don't have a long nose air grinder yet

Anyway rubberman an air grinder and a few bits similar to the ones in the links below and you'll be in action

<a href="http://www.tools-plus.com/abrasives-die-straight-mini-grinder-accessories-carbide-burs.html" target="_blank">http://www.tools-plus.com/abrasives-die-straight-mini-grinder-accessories-carbide-burs.html</a>

<a href="http://www.tools-plus.com/abrasives-die-straight-mini-grinder-accessories-flap-wheels.html" target="_blank">http://www.tools-plus.com/abrasives-die-straight-mini-grinder-accessories-flap-wheels.html</a>

The MOST important thing of all, wear goggles! and something to cover your ears, maybe even your nose/mouth if your sanding. I can't explain to you how freaky it feels having a metal shaving in the middle of your eye, well in fact that part doesn't hurt at all, but inbetween when it happens and the time the doctor takes it out you realise just how often humans blink! because your eyelid goes over the top of this sharp splinter of metal each time it closes and it's really not a good thing, put the goggles on
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Old 01-25-2003, 05:05 AM
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I'm suprised Stoned or Slant didn't suggest a cutting torch and cleaning it up with some 40 grit sandpaper. :p Steve
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