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Old 01-28-2013, 09:24 PM
kso kso is offline
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This was composed before I saw the previous post...I am assuming the connector uses snap-in pins because in your photo they look stamped from sheet, and molded-in ones are usually solid...but I could be wrong. In any event....

Usually the steel pin (stamped/formed from very thin sheet) is pushed into a snugly-sized hole in the plastic connector body, and has a little (I do mean little) tab that is bent out slightly and engages a step in the plastic when it goes far enough in. Your task, if you're hoping to ever get that pin back out, is to find about where that tab is, and from the backside get something small-enough/shaped right jammed in there in the minimal space between the pin and hole and push so that the tab is forced inward to the pin while you simultaneously pull on it in the direction you want it to go. You'd think a needle or something would do it but I've had better luck making a "blade" tool from thin (.015") metal with a rounded cross-section (form it with a pliers, over a nail) to conform to the pin. Your tool should be wide (like 1/4") where you hold it (with a needlenose) and get down to .060 or less where you're hoping to engage the tab, and the whole thing will be less than 3/4" long.

It's a happy feeling when the d*#% thing finally lets loose...then you can next figure out how to get that wire out of it, and a new one in so it'll stay.

When the pin goes back in there...a simple push will do it...just make sure it's little tab is sticking out enough to grab the step in the plastic again, 'cause you may have bent it up a bit when you removed it. For that, a needle works well.
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