How do I remove left power window mtr in '97 Chev pickup door? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 07-24-2008, 06:09 PM
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How do I remove left power window mtr in '97 Chev pickup door?

I am not sure if this is the correct place to ask this question, but if not then maybe someone will redirect me.
The truck is a 1997 Chevy 2 door Silverado.
Power window on the left side quit working and the window is up all the way.
I am getting voltage at the motor, so I assume it needs a new motor.

My problem is getting to the motor.
I have removed everything inside the door face and now I am at the inner steel panel (that the motor is riveted to). I removed the dozen or so screws and the panel is loose but it will not come off.
The problem is of course the window arm is still in it's track and the window is in the up position.
How can I lower the glass so that the panel/motor can be removed?
Thanks for any help someone can send my way.........pg

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Old 07-24-2008, 10:22 PM
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Hi: I'm going to put this in General Rodding Tech. I think you'll get better answers there.

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Old 07-24-2008, 10:43 PM
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Let's try Autzone's link directly.

First of all, you will have to look at the 5th digit of your VIN in order to determine if it is a "C/K" series or "R/V" series.

(I thought they were ALL "C/K" in 1997, but I see these instructions cover 1988 to 1998 trucks.)

If the link doesn't work, here is the text:
---------------------------------------


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION


R/V Series


Raise the glass to the full up position and tape it to the door frame with fabric tape.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the door trim panel.
Remove the window control bolts and lay the control aside for access.
Remove the regulator-to-door panel attaching bolts.
Disconnect the harness from the regulator.
Slide the regulator assembly rearward, disengaging the rollers from the sash panel.
A notch is provided in the sash panel to allow disengagement of the forward roller on the window regulator.

Remove the regulator assembly through the access hole in the door.
CAUTION
The next step must be performed when the regulator is removed from the door. The regulator lift arms are under tension from the counterbalance spring and can cause serious injury if the motor is removed without locking the sector gear in position.
Drill a hole through the regulator sector gear and back plate. DO NOT drill a hole closer than 1/2 in. (13mm) to the edge of the sector gear or back plate. Install a pan head sheet metal tapping screw (No. 10-123/4 in.) in the drilled hole to lock the sector gear in position.
Remove the motor-to-regulator attaching screws and remove the motor from the regulator.
To install:


Prior to installation, lubricate the motor drive gear and regulator sector teeth.
Install the motor to the regulator. Make sure the motor and sector gear teeth mesh properly before installing the retaining screws.
Remove the screw locking the sector gear in the fixed position.
Reposition the motor in the door and install the wiring connector.
Attach the regulator to the door.
C/K Series

Disconnect the battery ground cable.
Remove the door trim panel.
Remove the water deflector by peeling it back.
Disconnect the door lock rods at the module.
Loosen the upper run channel bolt.
Move the run channel away from the glass.
Pull the wiring harness towards the door to reach the connector. Remove the boot from the wiring and disconnect the harness at the door hinge pillar.
Remove the module and window assembly from the door frame by tilting it and lowering it from the door.
Fold back the tab on the channel and slide the glass out.
On trucks with power components, drill out the rivets from the inner handle housing.
Drill out the regulator assembly rivets.
Remove the regulator/motor assembly.
CAUTION
The next step must be performed when the regulator is removed from the door. The regulator lift arms are under tension from the counterbalance spring and can cause serious injury if the motor is removed without locking the sector gear in position.
Install a pan head sheet metal tapping screw through the sector gear and backing plate in the hole provided, to lock the sector gear in position.
Drill out the motor-to-regulator attaching rivets and remove the motor from the regulator.
To install:


Prior to installation, lubricate the motor drive gear and regulator sector teeth.
Install the motor to the regulator. Make sure the motor and sector gear teeth mesh properly before installing the replacement attaching bolts and nuts.
Remove the screw locking the sector gear in the fixed position.
Reposition the motor/regulator in the door and install the wiring connector.
Attach the regulator to the door.
Slide the glass out into the channel and fold over the tab.
Fit the glass into the rear channel in the door, then, while pulling the channel towards the glass, fit the glass into the front run channel.
Install the boot from the wiring and connect the harness at the door hinge pillar.
Install the lower run channel bolt.
Install the door lock rods at the module.
Install the module panel screws, starting at the top left, then the top right.
Install the water deflector.
Tighten the upper run channel bolt.
Install the trim panel on the door.
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Old 07-24-2008, 11:45 PM
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Thanks 66GMC......

I appreciate your reply regarding removing the window motor.
I have the factory manual, but in my opinion it is poorly written. I mean, I can certainly read but the instruction is given with poor illustrations and is so chopped up that I have to jump back and forth between 25 pages of information. The truck is a C1500. The Auto-Zone info did not help me, but thanks.
After 3 hours today I became so disgusted that I gave up and just popped the panel back on the door. The motor is fastened on with rivets and I was tempted to drill them and let the motor fall free inside the door, to enable me to remove that inner steel panel but decided not to do that. Glad now that I did not.
The last window motor I installed was in the right door of my 1992 Chevy van.
I think it was the worst beating I ever had! I got the dang thing out, but just barely. At least it was not held on with rivets, nor had the inner steel panel.
I guess I will have to live with a window that stays up.........pg
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Old 07-25-2008, 12:47 AM
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Might ask over at www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard . They have late-model forums, too.
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Old 08-01-2008, 10:36 PM
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You will have to drill out the "special" rivets. Buy the new motor from GM and get the five rivets also. In fact, get a few extra because your going to bugger the first one up anyways until you get the correct tension down pat. You also need a large 22 inch pop rivet tool, a simple hand one won't do. When you drill out the rivets, have a piece of string cord looped around the rollers to catch the glass or it will fall and wedge in the track. It will take a few hours to do the job. Have GM parts print you out a schematic of the door parts to help guide you.

The problem is not the motor, but the screw assembly has worn out gears. That is why the motor tests out OK.
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Old 08-01-2008, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alittle1
You will have to drill out the "special" rivets. Buy the new motor from GM and get the five rivets also. In fact, get a few extra because your going to bugger the first one up anyways until you get the correct tension down pat. You also need a large 22 inch pop rivet tool, a simple hand one won't do. When you drill out the rivets, have a piece of string cord looped around the rollers to catch the glass or it will fall and wedge in the track. It will take a few hours to do the job. Have GM parts print you out a schematic of the door parts to help guide you.
The problem is not the motor, but the screw assembly has worn out gears. That is why the motor tests out OK.
Thanks for the comment. I knew the motor had to be riveted in place and suspected that the hand held hardware rivet tool (with aluminum rivets) was not going to work. I gave up because the window was up and I needed to lower it to get the roller out of the track.
The long and short of it though is, believe it or not, I moved the truck this evening and the dang window goes up and down smoothly and without a loss of speed.
So clearly, a motor I do not need.
There must be a loose connection somewhere. The connections to the switch are good and the connections to the motor are tight also. There cannot be many other places where connections can be found....as I am looking at the wiring diagram........pg
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